Southern Suburbs

Southern Suburbs

Neighbourhood Top Five

1Immerse yourself in the diverse splendour of the Cape floral kingdom at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, and be sure to attend one of the outdoor summer concerts.

2Taste wines along the Constantia Valley Wine Route, visiting historic estates such as Groot Constantia.

3Take a stroll around the lovely urban conservation area of Wynberg Village.

4Admire the view from the grand Rhodes Memorial.

5Step into the world of one of South Africa’s top 20th-century painters at the Irma Stern Museum.

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Explore Southern Suburbs

If you want to see how the other half in Cape Town lives – the rich half, that is – visit the Southern Suburbs, the residential areas clinging to the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. Heading south out of the City Bowl and around Devil’s Peak you’ll first hit Mowbray and Rondebosch; this is the territory of the University of Cape Town (UCT) and the location of one of Cape Town’s premier arts spaces, the Baxter Theatre Centre.

Leafy, affluent Newlands and Bishopscourt are where you'll find the area’s highlight, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, as well as the city’s major cricketing and rugby venues. The area around Claremont station is a fascinating study in contrasts, with black and coloured traders crowding the streets around the ritzy Cavendish Square mall. It’s a similar story in Wynberg, another place where the haves rub shoulders with the have-nots. The thatched-roof Cape Georgian homes of Wynberg Village are worth a look.

Immediately to the west is Constantia, home to South Africa’s oldest wineries and where the super-wealthy live in huge mansions behind high walls. It’s a verdant area that culminates in Tokai, with its shady forest reserve.

Local Life

ASports Join the fans cheering on South African cricket and rugby teams at Sahara Park Newlands and Newlands Rugby Stadium.

ABeer Sample microbrews at Banana Jam, tour South Africa’s oldest commercial brewery or drop by the ever-popular Forrester’s Arms.

AMarkets The Kirstenbosch commons hosts various markets, including a monthly craft market; also head to the Tokai Forest Market on Saturday for farm-fresh produce and crafts.

Getting There & Away

ACar From the city follow the M3, which runs parallel to the east side of Table Mountain and has turn-offs for UCT, the Rhodes Memorial, Newlands and Kirstenbosch. Stay on the M3 for Constantia and Tokai.

ABus The City Sightseeing Cape Town Blue Route bus stops at Kirstenbosch; you can add a free extension bus tour to the Constantia wineries.

AShared taxi Minibus taxis shuttle along Main Rd from Mowbray to Wynberg.

ATrain Cape Metro Rail has stops at Rondebosch, Newlands, Claremont, Kenilworth, Wynberg, Rosebank and Mowbray.

Lonely Planet’s Top Tip

If you're in Cape Town on the second-last Saturdays of March or November and like pottery, head to Rondebosch Common for the Potters Market organised by Ceramics South Africa (www.ceramics-sa-cape.co.za). Get there around 7am to snag the best pieces and bargains. Every Saturday at 8am there's also a 5km park run (www.parkrun.co.za/rondeboschcommon) around the common – anyone can join.

Top Sight
TOP SIGHT

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

Covering 5 hectares of Table Mountain, these beautiful landscaped gardens – the largest in South Africa – merge almost imperceptibly with the surrounding natural fynbos (literally, 'fine bush'; primarily proteas, heaths and ericas) vegetation. They’re a wonderful place to relax, take in the scenery and learn about the magnificent Cape floral kingdom. There's always something flowering, but the gardens are at their best between mid-August and mid-October.

History of the Gardens

In 1657 Jan van Riebeeck appointed a forester to the area. A group of French refugees shipwrecked en route to Madagascar were employed in 1660 to plant a wild almond hedge as the boundary of the Dutch outpost (a remnant of it is still here). Van Riebeeck called his private farm Boschheuwel, and it wasn’t until the 1700s, when the gardens were managed by JF Kirsten, that they got the name Kirstenbosch. Cecil Rhodes owned the land from 1895 until his death in 1902, when he bequeathed his estate to the nation. It officially became a botanical garden in 1913.

What to See

Apart from the almond hedge, some magnificent oaks, and the Moreton Bay fig and camphor trees planted by Rhodes, the gardens are devoted almost exclusively to indigenous plants. About 9000 of Southern Africa’s 22,000 plant species are cultivated here.

Added for the garden's centenary in 2013, the Tree Canopy Walkway (informally known as the Boomslang, meaning 'tree snake') is a curvaceous steel and timber bridge that rises through the trees and provides wonderful views.

You’ll find a kopje (hill) that's been planted with pelargoniums; a sculpture garden; a section of plants used in making medicine; and a fragrance garden with raised beds and plants that can be smelt and felt, developed so that sight-impaired people could enjoy the garden (the plant labels here are also in Braille).

The main entrance at the Newlands end of the gardens is where you’ll find plenty of parking, the information centre, an excellent souvenir shop and the atmosphere-controlled conservatory, which displays plant communities from a variety of terrains: the most interesting of these is the Namakwa and Richtersveld section, with baobabs and quiver trees.

Make an effort to attend the series of Summer Sunset Concerts, usually held on Sundays; some of the biggest names in South African music perform here.

Guided Walks & Hiking Routes

The gardens run free guided walks; you can also hire an electronic device (R40) that plays recorded information about the various plants on the three signposted circular walks.

There are also two popular hiking routes up Table Mountain from Kirstenbosch, along either Skeleton Gorge, which involves negotiating some sections with chains, or Nursery Ravine. These can be covered in three hours by someone of moderate fitness. The trails are well marked and steep in places, but the way to the gardens from the cableway and vice versa is not signposted.

Top Sight
TOP SIGHT

Constantia Valley Wine Route

South Africa’s wine industry began here back in 1685, when Governor Simon van der Stel chose the area for its wine-growing potential. After Van der Stel’s death in 1712, his 7.6-sq-km estate, which he had named Constantia, was split up. The area is now the location for the Constantia Valley Wine Route, comprising 10 vineyards.

Groot Constantia

Simon van der Stel’s manor house, a superb example of Cape Dutch architecture, is maintained as a museum at Groot Constantia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 5128; www.grootconstantia.co.za; Groot Constantia Rd, Constantia; tastings R30, museum adult/child R20/free, cellar tours R40 incl tasting; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm daily; icon-parkgifp). Set in beautiful grounds, the estate can become busy with tour groups but is large enough for you to escape the crowds. In the 18th century, Constantia wines were exported and highly acclaimed around the world; try the sauvignon blanc and the Gouverneurs Reserve bordeaux-style blend.

The large tasting room is first on your right as you enter the estate. Further on is the free orientation centre, which provides an excellent overview of the estate’s history, and the beautifully restored homestead. The interiors have been appropriately furnished; take a look at the tiny slave quarters beneath the main building. The Cloete Cellar, with a beautiful moulded pediment, was the estate’s original wine cellar. It now houses old carriages and a display of storage vessels. Hour-long tours of the modern cellar depart at 2pm.

Steenberg Vineyards

Enjoy the gorgeous contemporary tasting bar and lounge at Steenberg Vineyards ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.steenberg-vineyards.co.za; Steenberg Estate, Steenberg Rd, Tokai; tastings R20 & R40; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-parkgifp), in which you can sample its great merlot, sauvignon blanc, semillon and Méthode Cap Classique sparkler. The farm estate is the oldest on the Cape, dating back to 1682, when it was known as Swaane-weide (Feeding Place of the Swans). Also here is the five-star Steenberg Hotel, in the original manor house, Catharina’s Restaurant and an 18-hole golf course.

Buitenverwachting

Buitenverwachting ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 5190; www.buitenverwachting.co.za; Klein Constantia Rd, Constantia; tastings R40; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; icon-parkgifp) means ‘beyond expectation’, which is certainly the feeling one gets on visiting this 1-hectare estate. Beg, borrow or steal to snag a bottle of its delicious – but limited-release – Christine bordeaux blend. The creamy chardonnay and richly textured cabernet sauvignon are also standout whites. Order ahead to enjoy a blissful picnic lunch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%083 257 6083; Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia Rd, Constantia; lunch R145; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Apr) in front of the 1796 manor house. There's also a casual cafe and a fancier restaurant with a sweeping view of the vineyards.

Klein Constantia

Part of the original Constantia estate, Klein Constantia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kleinconstantia.com; Klein Constantia Rd, Constantia; tastings R30; icon-hoursgifhtastings 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; icon-parkgifp) is famous for its Vin de Constance, a sweet muscat wine. It was Napoleon’s solace on St Helena, and Jane Austen had one of her heroines recommend it for having the power to heal ‘a disappointed heart’. Also sample their champagne-style sparkler. Klein Constantia doesn’t offer the frills and bonuses of other wineries, but it’s worth visiting for its excellent tasting room.

Other Wineries

Constantia Glen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-795 6100; www.constantiaglen.com; Constantia Main Rd, Constantia; tasting R30; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; icon-parkgifp) is known for its sauvignon blanc and bordeaux-style blends. There's a sweeping view of the vineyards from the terrace in front of the tasting room.

Stuart Botha, the young winemaker at Eagle’s Nest ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 4095; www.eaglesnestwines.com; Constantia Main Rd, Constantia; tasting R40; icon-hoursgifh10am-4.30pm; icon-parkgifp), is one of the stars of an SABC reality TV series Exploring the Vine. Try the viognier or shiraz. Book ahead for picnics (R375 for two), which you can enjoy in the shady grounds beside a stream; otherwise there are various food platters and light snacks available.

There are panoramic views from the contemporary-styled tasting room and wine and sushi bar at Beau Constantia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 8632; www.beauconstantia.com; Constantia Nek, Constantia; wine tasting R55, canapes R90; icon-hoursgifhtasting room 10am-4.30pm, wine & sushi bar noon-8.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-parkgifp), although take care when driving in as the car park is a little tricky to locate. There are five wines to taste.

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Constantia Valley Wine RouteDON BAYLEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

TABLE MOUNTAIN RESERVOIRS

On the area of Table Mountain known as the Back Table are five dams and reservoirs, created in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to provide a secure water supply for the booming population of Cape Town. Work commenced on the first dam in 1890; the 995-megalitre reservoir, Woodhead Reservoir (named after then mayor Sir John Woodhead), was eventually completed in 1897. At the same time the independent municipality of Wynberg began working on a series of dams: Victoria Reservoir was completed in 1896, Alexandra Reservoir was finished in 1903 and De Villiers Reservoir in 1907. In 1904 the city of Cape Town also added the 924-megalitre Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir, named after Sir Walter Hely-Hutchinson, the last governor of Cape Colony.

In hikes around the Back Table you can admire the construction skill and detail of these dams and learn something of their history at the Waterworks Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-686 3408; Back Table, Table Mountain National Park). Call ahead, as this small building at the northern corner of the Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir is often closed. Inside, various bits of machinery used to build the dams are displayed, including the Barclay locomotive made in Scotland in 1898, which was dismantled and reconstructed on top of the mountain. A straightforward way up here is from Constantia Nek, where there’s parking, and through the Cecilia Plantation; the route to Hely-Hutchinson dam is around 4km one-way.

1Sights

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Constantia Valley Wine Route

Rhodes MemorialMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rhodesmemorial.co.za; off M3, Groote Schuur Estate, Rondebosch; admission free; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm; icon-parkgifp)icon-freeF

Partly modelled on the arch at London’s Hyde Park Corner, this monumental granite memorial stands on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain, at a spot where the mining magnate and former prime minister used to admire the view. The 49 steps, one for each year of Rhodes’ life, are flanked by pairs of proud lions; the top provides sweeping vistas to the Cape Flats and the mountain ranges beyond.

Rhodes bought all the surrounding land in 1895 for £9000 as part of a plan to preserve a relatively untouched section of the mountain for future generations. His ambition and determination is memorialised by a dynamic statue of a man on a rearing horse (in contrast to the bust of Rhodes himself, which has him looking rather grumpy).

Behind the memorial is a pleasant restaurant and a steep path leading up to the King’s Blockhouse, a defensive position built by the British between 1795 and 1803. From here it’s possible to follow the contour path above Newlands Forest to Skeleton Gorge and down into Kirstenbosch.

The exit for the memorial is at the Princess Anne Interchange on the M3.

Irma Stern MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-685 5686; www.irmastern.co.za; Cecil Rd, Rosebank; adult/child R10/5; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sat; icon-traingifdRosebank)

The pioneering 20th-century artist Irma Stern (1894–1966), whose works are some of the most sought-after among modern South African painters, lived here for almost 40 years; her studio has been left virtually intact, as if she’d just stepped out into the verdant garden for a breath of fresh air. Her ethnographic art-and-craft collection from around the world is as fascinating as her art, which was influenced by German expressionism and incorporates traditional African elements.

Wynberg VillageVILLAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; around Durban Rd, Wynberg; icon-traingifdWynberg)

Declared an urban conservation area in 1981, Wynberg Village is also known as Little Chelsea or Chelsea Village, a nickname it gained in the 1950s in reference to London’s Chelsea. Like that British artsy quarter, the village’s Cape Georgian buildings (the densest collection in South Africa) house the homes and shops of artists, designers and interior decorators.

Midway between Cape Town and Simon’s Town, this charming village of thatched-roof cottages was developed mainly in the 19th century as a garrison for the British army, but there are also older buildings here; it’s best explored on a walking tour.

Maynardville ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wolfe St, Wynberg Village, Wynberg; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-traingifdWynberg)

When the 1870s mansion of Victorian property magnate James Maynard was demolished in the 1950s, the city took over the extensive grounds surrounding it and created this park. The estate's former swimming pool is now a pond, while the archery lawn has been replaced by the Maynardville Open-Air Theatre.

Groote SchuurHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%083 414 7961, 021-686 9100; Klipper Rd, Rondebosch; admission R50; icon-hoursgifhtours 10am-noon Mon-Fri; icon-traingifdRondebosch)

Advance booking is necessary for the tour around the grandest of Cecil Rhodes' former residences. It was also home to a succession of prime ministers, culminating with FW de Klerk. The beautifully restored interior, all teak panels and heavy colonial furniture, and with antiques and tapestries of the finest calibre, is suitably imposing. The best feature is the colonnaded verandah overlooking the formal gardens, which slope uphill towards an avenue of pine trees and sweeping views of Devil’s Peak.

Bring your passport to gain entry to this high-security area; the entrance is unmarked but easily spotted on the left as you take the Princess Anne Ave exit off the M3.

Tokai ForestFOREST

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tokai Rd, Tokai; adult/child R20/10, car R15; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Apr-Sep, 7am-6pm Oct-Mar; icon-parkgifp)

This wooded section of Table Mountain National Park, south of Constantia, is a favourite spot for picnics, mountain biking and walks. The most challenging walk is the 6km hike up to Elephant’s Eye Cave, within the Silvermine section of the park; the zigzag path is fairly steep and offers little shade as you climb higher up Constantiaberg (928m), so bring a hat and water.

At the walk’s base you’ll find the Tokai Arboretum, a planting of 1555 different trees representing 274 species, begun in 1885 by Joseph Storr Lister, the conservator of forests for the Cape Colony. Here, too, is the pleasant Lister’s Place Tea Garden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-715 4512; Tokai Forest, Tokai Rd, Tokai; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Tue-Sun) and the self-catering accommodation Wood Owl Cottage.

To reach the forest, take the Tokai exit from the M3 highway and follow the signs.

Newlands BreweryBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-658 7440; www.newlandsbrewery.co.za; 3 Main Rd, Newlands; admission R50; icon-hoursgifhtours 10am, noon, 2pm Mon-Thu, also 6pm Tue & Wed, also 4pm Fri, 10am & 2pm Sat; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdNewlands)

In the early 19th century Jacob Letterstedt built the Mariendahl Brewery in Newlands, a handsome building since granted National Monument status. It's now part of Newlands Brewery and owned by South African Breweries. Fascinating tours of the complex, including the chance to sample the various beers made here (which include Castle and Black Label), will give you an insight into large-scale beer-making.

Arderne GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ardernegardens.org.za; 222 Main Rd, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm; icon-traingifdHartfield Rd)icon-freeF

Planted by botanist Ralph Arderne in 1845, these shady gardens represent the oldest collection of trees in the southern hemisphere and include bamboo, fir, gum and enormous Moreton Bay fig trees. It’s a lovely place to wander around for an afternoon, and is especially colourful on weekends, when many Capetonian wedding parties arrive here to have their photos taken.

Mostert's MillHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mostertsmill.co.za; Rhodes Ave, Rosebank; icon-traingifdRosebank)

As you’re following the M3 from the city, just after the open paddocks on Devil’s Peak you’ll pass, on the left, a real Dutch windmill dating from around 1796 – the only such working mill south of the Sahara. The thatched cap can rotate to face the wind. Check the website for the few days a year when it's operated.

University of Cape TownUNIVERSITY, ARCHITECTURE

(UCT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.uct.ac.za; off Rugby Rd, Rosebank; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdRosebank)

For the non-academic there’s no pressing reason to visit the University of Cape Town, but it’s nonetheless an impressive place to walk around. UCT presents a fairly cohesive architectural front, with ivy-covered neoclassical facades and a fine set of stone steps leading to the temple-like Jameson Hall.

If you approach UCT from Woolsack Dr, you’ll pass the Woolsack, a cottage designed in 1900 by Sir Herbert Baker for Cecil Rhodes; it’s now a student residence. (It’s said that Rudyard Kipling wrote the poem 'If' during his residence here between 1900 and 1907.)

2Neighbourhood Walk
Wynberg Village Walk

Start Wynberg Station

End Wolfe St

Length 2.5km; one hour

This conservation area is packed with Cape Georgian and Victorian buildings, some thatched, and many with lovely flower gardens. However, the area around 1Wynberg Station, always jammed with taxis and traders, contrasts starkly with the genteel village less than 10 minutes’ walk west. Opposite the station is the restored 2Town Hall, designed at the turn of the 19th century by William Black in Flemish revival style.

Cross Main Rd and head down Maynard Rd. Across from the car park (an alternative start/finish point if you’re driving) is 3Maynardville Park. Walk through the park, emerging at the junction of Wolfe St and Carr Hill Rd. The neo-Gothic 4Dutch Reformed Church, up the hill at the corner of Durban Rd, dates back to 1831; inside are four granite supporting pillars donated by Cecil Rhodes. Turn left (south) at the church and walk down Durban Rd. Many pretty thatched-roof cottages line this street, including 5Winthrop House, which was once the British army officers’ mess, and 6Falcon House, said to be the village’s first courthouse.

Where Durban Rd meets Wolfe St is a small square shaded by a pair of oak trees. Around here are interior-design shops; some surround the hidden 7Chelsea Courtyard, a delightful garden. Return to Wolfe St and continue south to Lonsdale St to admire another one located in the 8old bakery (c 1890), with its fish-scale slate turret flanked by griffins.

Turn left (east) into Lonsdale St and continue to Durban Rd. Detour right to peek through the wire fence at the late 18th-century mansion 9Tenterden. The Cape Dutch–revival verandah was added in the 20th century. The Duke of Wellington once slept at the (no longer extant) coach house that was located on the property.

Retrace your steps back along Durban Rd until you reach the village square; aWolfe St has a parade of shops and places to eat and drink.

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5Eating

Gardener’s CottageCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-689 3158; Montebello Craft Studios, 31 Newlands Ave, Newlands; mains R45-70; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; icon-traingifdNewlands)

After exploring the Montebello craft studios, relax at this lovely cafe and tea garden in the grounds. It serves simple, hearty meals in the shade of leafy trees.

O’ways TeacafeVEGETARIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-617 2850; www.oways.co.za; 20 Dreyer St, Claremont; mains R55-169; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Pronounced ‘always’, this stylish, relaxing place is fully vegetarian, and includes tasty dishes such as dim sum dumplings and portobello mushrooms filled with couscous. It's also one of the best places in Cape Town to come for tea, with 60-odd loose-leaf teas and infusions on offer.

Chart FarmCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-762 0067; www.chartfarm.co.za; Klaasens Rd, Wynberg; mains R28-50; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdWynberg)

Roses, chestnuts, lemons and grapes are among the tasty things grown on this small farm tucked away on the west side of the M3. At its coffee shop, which features a panoramic view across the farm to the mountains, enjoy homemade cakes, breakfasts and lunch treats such as chicken pie. Pick your own roses afterwards for R4 a stem.

Kirstenbosch Tea RoomINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-797 4883; www.ktr.co.za; Gate 2, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Rhodes Dr, Newlands; mains R50-100; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Kirstenbosch’s best dining option. English tea for two (R210), including cucumber and cream-cheese sandwiches, mini-quiches and homemade scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream, can be ordered to enjoy anywhere you please in the gardens. Picnic lunches are available, too.

TashasBAKERY, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tashascafe.com; Shop 55, Constantia Village, Constantia Main Rd, Constantia; mains R55-80; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm; icon-parkgifp)

Muffins that could feed a small family and other delectable baked goods and desserts are the forte of this luxe-design cafe offering ‘easy eating’ – a hit Johannesburg concept imported to the Mother City.

Brooker & WallerDELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%087 625 0059; www.brookerwaller.co.za; Shop 1A, Cavendish Place, Cavendish St, Claremont; salads & sandwiches R30-65; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Nip into this convivial deli with shared tables to pick up epicurean food and drink; its light meals include a selection of salads and pastrami sandwiches.

icon-top-choiceoStarlings CafeINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-671 6875; www.starlings.co.za; 94 Belvedere Rd, Claremont; mains R65-100; icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, to 2pm Sun; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Although it's not at all on the tourist route and a little tricky to spot – hidden as it is behind a big hedge – this cafe is one of the Southern Suburbs' most charming dining spots. With its relaxed, arty cottage and shady garden environment, it's great for a lazy breakfast or lunch.

icon-top-choiceoBistro Sixteen82TAPAS, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-713 2211; www.steenberg-vineyards.co.za; Steenberg Vineyard, Tokai; mains R98-185; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm; icon-parkgifp)

Perfectly complementing the slick and contemporary wine-tasting lounge at Steenberg Vineyard is this highly appealing bistro, serving everything from breakfast with a glass of bubbly to an early supper of tapas with their quaffable merlot. Seating is both indoor and outdoor, with beguiling views of the gardens and mountain.

icon-top-choiceoFour&twenty Cafe & PantryINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-761 1000; www.fourandtwentycafe.co.za; 23 Wolfe St, Wynberg Village; mains R65-100; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Tue-Sat; icon-traingifdWynberg)

A favourite among the Little Chelsea crowd, this appealing place cooks up delicious food, from fresh salads and sandwiches to inventive dishes such as oxtail stew pie, imam biyaldi (caramelised aubergine with an almond crunch) and fish with polenta chips. The courtyard, draped with bougainvillea, is a lovely spot even just for tea and cake.

A TavolaITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 3010; www.atavola.co.za; Library Square, Wilderness Rd, Claremont; mains R88-150; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm Sun-Fri, 6-10pm Mon-Sat; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdClaremont)

This spacious, classy neighbourhood joint, with walls hung with photos of people tucking into food, makes a near-perfect Caesar salad, as well as delicious pasta and other mains. No wonder the people are smiling in those photos.

La BelleBAKERY, INTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-795 6336; www.alphen.co.za; Alphen Drive, Constantia; mains R70-160; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

In front of the Alphen hotel, this dining spot is appealing both inside and out – for breakfast, lunch or a snack. Treat yourself to a five-star brekkie (R220) or one of the speciality-leaf teas (R25). There's also a branch at Camps Bay.

Rhodes Memorial RestaurantCAPE MALAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rhodesmemorial.co.za; Rhodes Memorial, off M3, Groote Schuur Estate, Rondebosch; mains R70-125; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm)

Behind the memorial is a pleasant restaurant and alfresco tearoom in a 1920 thatched-roof cottage. It’s family-run and specialises in Cape Malay dishes, such as curries, bredies (pot stews of meat or fish and vegetables) and bobotie (delicately flavoured ostrich-meat curry with a topping of beaten egg baked to a crust).

Bookings are advised on the weekends – especially on Sunday, when there's live jazz from 1pm to 4pm.

JonkershuisCAPE MALAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 6255; www.jonkershuisconstantia.co.za; Groot Constantia Rd, Constantia; mains R88-148; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; icon-parkgifp)

This casual brasserie-style restaurant in the grounds of Groot Constantia has a pleasant, vine-shaded courtyard and tables looking onto the manor house. Sample Cape Malay dishes (including a tasting plate for R148) or cured meats with a glass or two of the local wines, or satisfy your sweet tooth with the desserts.

GrazeINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%083 655 3332; cnr Kenilworth Rd & 2nd Ave, Hatfield Village; mains R60-125; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun; icon-parkgifp; icon-traingifdKenilworth)

A handy accompaniment to craft-brew pub Banana Jam across the road is this new venture that zones on sustainable, nutritional produce with bold flavours, not to mention a living wall of salad leaves. Expect to find free-range chicken and burgers made with beef from cows grazing on biodynamic pastures and the like.

icon-top-choiceoGreenhouseINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 2137; www.collectionmcgrath.com; The Cellars-Hohenort, 93 Brommerslvei Rd, Constantia; 5-course meal without/with wine R550/870; icon-hoursgifh7-9.30pm Tue-Sat; icon-parkgifpicon-veggifv)

Chef Peter Tempelhoff's culinary imagination runs riot in this elegant, leafy restaurant that's one of the Cape's top dining destinations. The best of local produce, from sustainable kabeljou fish and kroon duck to globe artichokes, may be featured on the five-course menu (which can be reconfigured for vegetarians).

icon-top-choiceoLa ColombeFRENCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 2390; www.lacolombe.co.za; Silvermist, Main Rd, Constantia; lunch mains R135-210, 4/6-course dinner R465/685; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm; icon-parkgifp)

There's a new location on the Silvermist estate for this storied Constantia restaurant, but little else has changed. British chef Scot Kirton rustles up skilful dishes combining French and Asian techniques and flavours, such as smoked tomato risotto and miso-seared scallops. The coolly elegant setting and personable service couldn't be better.

CECIL RHODES: EMPIRE BUILDER

Empire builder Cecil John Rhodes (1853–1902) was a legend in his own lifetime. When he arrived in South Africa in 1870, he was a sickly, impoverished son of an English vicar. The climate obviously agreed with Rhodes, as he not only recovered his health but went on to found the De Beers mining company (which in 1891 owned 90% of the world’s diamond mines) and become prime minister of the Cape at the age of 37, in 1890.

As part of his dream of building a railway from the Cape to Cairo (running through British territory all the way), Rhodes pushed north to establish mines and develop trade. He established British control in Bechuanaland (later Botswana) and the area that was to become Rhodesia (later Zimbabwe). His grand ideas of empire went too far, though, when he became involved in a failed uprising in the Boer-run Transvaal Republic in 1895. An embarrassed British government forced Rhodes to resign as prime minister in 1896, but Rhodesia and Bechuanaland remained his personal fiefdoms.

Rhodes never married (there’s been much debate over whether he was gay); late in his life he became entangled in the schemes of the glamorous and ruthless Princess Radziwill, who was later jailed for her swindles. His health again in decline, Rhodes returned to Cape Town in 1902, only to die from his ailments, at the age of 49, at his home in Muizenberg. Rhodes’ reputation was rehabilitated by his will: he devoted most of his fortune to the Rhodes scholarship, which sends recipients to Oxford University; and his land and many properties in Cape Town were bequeathed to the nation.

6Drinking & Nightlife

icon-top-choiceoBanana JamBEER HALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bananajamcafe.co.za; 157 2nd Ave, Harfield Village, Kenilworth; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdKenilworth)

Real beer lovers rejoice – this convivial Caribbean restaurant and bar is like manna from heaven, with over 30 beers on tap (including its own brews) and bottled ales from all the top local microbrewers, including Jack Black, Darling Brew and CBC.

icon-top-choiceoMartini BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 2137; www.cellars-hohenort.com; 93 Brommerslvei Rd, Constantia; icon-hoursgifh11am-11.30pm)

Ponder your choice from the 200-strong list of cocktails on the menu (we recommend the Liz McGrath Rose Martini, flavoured with rose petals from the hotel’s famous gardens) while admiring the magnificent pink, lemon, burgundy and teal decor of the lounge. Peacocks wander the grounds outside. You can also enjoy afternoon tea here or in the hotel's Fern Bar.

icon-top-choiceoLocaléCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-685 2155; www.facebook.com/pintxosatlocale; 71 Klipfontein Rd, Little Mowbray; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu & Fri, 8am-midnight Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdMowbray)

On a shopping strip with a few other decent places to eat is this appealing, shabby-chic cafe-bar decorated with mismatched furniture and even a signed Tretchikoff print. It's a good place for a coffee or a cocktail supplemented by tasty pintxos (bite-sized Spanish-style canapés).

icon-top-choiceoForrester’s ArmsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.forries.co.za; 52 Newlands Ave, Newlands; icon-hoursgifh9am-11pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to midnight Fri, to 9pm Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-traingifdNewlands)

'Forries' has been around for well over a century. This English-style pub offers a convivial atmosphere in which to enjoy a great range of local ales (both large-brewery and craft), good pub meals (including wood-fired pizza), and a very pleasant beer garden with a play area for the kids.

Toad & JosephinePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-686 1437; www.thetoad.wozaonline.co.za/home; Boundary Rd, Newlands; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10.30pm; icon-traingifdNewlands)

Set beside the Liesbeek River, Cape Town’s only surviving water mill (built sometime after 1819 by Jacob Lettersted, who went on to become a wealthy brewer and miller) is now part of this pub-restaurant. Watch the giant iron wheel turn as you quaff drinks and nibble on wood-fired pizza on the shaded deck.

BarristersPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-674 1792; www.barristersgrill.co.za; cnr Kildare Rd & Main St, Newlands; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Sun-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-traingifdNewlands)

A locals' favourite watering hole, with a series of cosy rooms hung with an eye-catching assortment of items in ye-olde-country-pub style. It’s also an excellent spot for warming pub grub on a chilly night.

Caffé VerdiCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-762 0849; www.caffe-verdi.co.za; 21 Wolfe St, Wynberg; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-12.30am Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to midnight Sat; icon-traingifdWynberg)

This handsome cafe-bar, set in a 110-year-old house with a pretty courtyard, is a pleasant place to retire for a drink after exploring Chelsea Village.

Tiger TigerCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tigertiger.co.za; Stadium On Main, 103 Main Road, Claremont; admission R45 Thu, R50 Fri & Sat; icon-hoursgifh8.30pm-4am Thu-Sat; icon-traingifdClaremont)

If you're looking for a late-night party and dance spot in the Southern Suburbs, with a young, up-for-it crowd, then this is the place to head to. Be aware that there's a 'no T-shirt, shorts or sandals' rule on Friday and Saturday night, so dress smart.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SWEET SPRING WATERS

In Newlands, just off Kildare Rd, you may be intrigued to see a steady flow of cars pulling into and out of a cul-de-sac. A clue lies in the road’s name: Spring Way. At the end of the cul-de-sac flows fresh water that has been piped straight from a spring off Table Mountain. In-the-know Capetonians come to get their drinking water here, as well as at the water spring installed next to the Newlands Brewery. The Khoe-San called the river flowing off of Table Mountain 'Camissa', meaning ‘sweet water’ – something you can judge for yourself as you fill up your water bottle.

3Entertainment

icon-top-choiceoBaxter TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-685 7880; www.baxter.co.za; Main Rd, Rondebosch; tickets from R120; icon-traingifdRosebank)

Since the 1970s the Baxter has been the focus of Capetonian theatre. There are three venues – the main theatre, the concert hall and the studio – and between them they cover everything from kids’ shows to African dance spectaculars. They have an ongoing relationship with the Royal Shakespeare Company thanks to Capetonian Sir Anthony Sher, who has performed here.

Alma CaféLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-685 7377; www.almacafe.co.za; 20 Alma Rd, Rosebank; cover charge from R100; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 6-10pm Wed, 8am-5pm Fri, 8am-1pm Sat & Sun, 6-11pm Sun; icon-traingifdRosebank)

This cosy venue, which also serves food and drinks, usually has live music on Wednesday (free) and Sunday (cover charge; bookings necessary). Check its Facebook page for details of upcoming events.

Maynardville Open-Air TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-421 7695; www.maynardville.co.za; cnr Church & Wolfe Sts, Wynberg; icon-traingifdWynberg)

It wouldn’t be summer in Cape Town without a visit to Maynardville’s open-air theatre to see some Shakespeare. Bring a blanket, pillow and umbrella, though, as the weather can be dodgy and the seats are none too comfy. At other times of the year, dance, jazz and theatre performances also take place here.

Sahara Park NewlandsCRICKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-657 2043; www.wpca.org.za; 146 Campground Rd, Newlands; tickets R30-250; icon-traingifdNewlands)

If it weren’t for a nearby brewery messing up the view towards the back of Table Mountain, Newlands would be a shoo-in for the title of world’s prettiest cricket ground. With room for 25,000, it’s used for all international matches. Local team the Nashua Mobile Cape Cobras play here during the season, which runs from September to March.

Under a sponsorship deal its official name is Sahara Park Newlands, but everyone still knows it as Newlands Cricket Ground. Tickets cost around R50 for local matches and up to R200 for internationals. Grab a spot on the grass to soak up the festive atmosphere.

Newlands Rugby StadiumRUGBY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-659 4600; www.wprugby.com; 8 Boundary Rd, Newlands; icon-traingifdNewlands)

This hallowed ground of South African rugby is home to the Stormers (www.thestormers.com). Super-12 games and international matches are played here.

Galileo Open Air CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thegalileo.co.za; Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Rhodes Dr, Newlands; ticket R70, blanket/chair hire R10/20; icon-hoursgifhWed, Nov-Apr; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Most Wednesday evenings from November to March you can watch a movie outdoors in the gardens (entry is from 6pm; movies start around 7.30pm to 8.15pm, depending on sunset). Check the website for what's showing, but note that screenings will only be cancelled in extreme weather and that you cannot bring your own rugs or chairs.

Kenilworth RacecourseHORSE RACING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-700 1667; www.itsarush.co.za; Rosemead Ave, Kenilworth; icon-traingifdKenilworth)

Racing runs year-round here, but the main event to put down in your diary is the glitzy J&B Met, South Africa’s equivalent of Ladies Day at Ascot (and often more of a fashion show than a horse race). General admission tickets for it start at R125.

Lyra'sJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-685 2871; www.lyras.co.za; Shop 9 & 10, Fountain Centre, cnr Belmont & Main Rds, Rondebosch; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm Mon-Sat; icon-traingifdRondebosch)

You don't come here so much for the cheap-and-cheerful food (mains R50 to R100) as for the jazz jam session that takes place every Monday night, hosted by local musician Dan Shout.

7Shopping

icon-top-choiceoMontebelloARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.montebello.co.za; 31 Newlands Ave, Newlands; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; icon-traingifdNewlands)

This development project has helped several great craftspeople and designers along the way. In the leafy compound, artists studios are scattered around the central craft shop, where you can buy a great range of gifts, including some made from recycled materials. There’s also a plant nursery, the excellent cafe Gardener’s Cottage and car-washers.

icon-top-choiceoArt in the ForestCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 0291; www.lightfromafrica.com; Cecilia Forest, Constantia Nek, Rhodes Dr, Constantia; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

Profits from this gallery, hidden away in the Cecilia Forest, go towards supporting the Light From Africa Foundation. But that’s not the sole reason for visiting: there’s the first-class ceramic art pieces on sale – many created by top Capetonian potters and up-and-coming talents – and the handsome 1950s building, with its panoramic aspect towards Constantia.

icon-top-choiceoTokai Forest MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tokaiforestmarket.co.za; Chrysalis Academy, Tokai Manor, Tokai Rd, Tokai; parking R5; icon-hoursgifh9am-2pm Sat; icon-familygifc)

If you can tear yourself away from the other Saturday markets, this outdoor market with farm-fresh produce and crafts, held in the leafy surrounds of Tokai, is well worth attending. Grab breakfast here and let the little ones run wild in the various activity areas.

icon-top-choiceoBalu Legacy BoutiqueFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.balu.co.za; 9 Cavendish Ln, off Cavendish St, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Balu Nivison's designs using original print fabrics are temptingly displayed in this chic boutique in one of the heritage cottages behind Cavendish Square. There's a cafe and juice bar here, too, as well as range of essential oils and body lotions – and a few pieces for men by Balu's son Benjamin.

Cavendish SquareMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-657 5620; www.cavendish.co.za; Dreyer St, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-traingifdClaremont)

The focal point of Claremont's shopping scene, this top-class mall has outlets of many of Cape Town’s premier fashion designers, as well as supermarkets, department stores and multiplex cinemas.

Kirstenbosch Craft MarketARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-671 5468; cnr Kirstenbosch Dr & Rhodes Av, Newlands; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm last Sun of month; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Lots to choose from at this large craft market spread across the commons outside Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. It’s possible to use a credit card to pay for most purchases: payments are made in one of the stone cottages on the site. Proceeds from the market go to the development fund for Kirstenbosch.

HabitsFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-671 7330; www.habits.co.za; 1 Cavendish Close, Cavendish St, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Features women’s clothes, made from linen, cotton and silk by Jenny le Roux, that are classical and practical. Bored partners can crash on the sofa, watch TV and sip complimentary drinks.

The SpaceFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-674 6643; www.thespace.co.za; L69, Cavendish Square, Dreyer St, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Celebrating individual style, this groovy boutique in the bowels of Cavendish Square stocks creative local fashion designs and accessories, as well as fun gift items.

YDEFASHION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-683 6177; www.yde.co.za; F66, Cavendish Square, Dreyer St, Claremont; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-traingifdClaremont)

Standing for 'Young Designers Emporium', this place is all a bit of a jumble, but you’ll most likely find something reasonably inexpensive to suit among the clothes and accessories, created for both sexes by South African streetwear designers. There are branches at Victoria Wharf at the V&A Waterfront and at Canal Walk.

Constantia VillageSHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-794 5065; www.constantiavillage.co.za; cnr Constantia Main & Spaanschemat River Rds, Constantia; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 2pm Sun)

The area's main shopping hub covers all the basics and more with a couple of major supermarkets and many other stores, including music and bookshops and fashion retailers.

Access ParkOUTLET SHOPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.accesspark.co.za; 81 Chichester Rd, Kenilworth; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; icon-traingifdKenilworth)

Bargain hunters converge on the scores of outlet and factory shops here, which sell everything from Adidas runners to computers and luggage.

2Sports & Activities

SA Forest AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%083 517 3635; www.saforestadventures.co.za; Silvermist Mountain Lodge & Wine Estate, Main Rd, Constantia; per person R480; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Aug-Apr, to 3pm May-Jul)

Zigzagging across a ravine on the Silvermist wine estate is one of the longest ziplines in South Africa, made up of seven sections. There's little shade on the rocky hillside but the views are great – once you catch your breath after whizzing down the line, that is. From the estate entrance follow the signs to the Silvermist Eatery for the zipline entrance.

Sports Science Institute of South AfricaGYM, SWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-659 5600; www.ssisa.com; Boundary Rd, Newlands; per day R90; icon-hoursgifh5.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 6.30am-7pm Sat, 8am-12.30pm & 4-7pm Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-traingifdNewlands)

Many of the country’s top professional athletes train here. Amenities include a 25m pool, an indoor running track and children's daycare. Day visitors are welcome. It’s sandwiched between the Newlands cricket and rugby stadiums.

Kenilworth Racecourse Conservation AreaWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%021-700 1843; www.krca.co.za; Kenilworth Race Course, Rosemead Ave, Kenilworth; icon-traingifdKenilworth)

In the centre of Kenilworth Racecourse are 5200 sq metres of protected Cape Flats sand fynbos, where nature walks and other events are sometimes organised. See the website for details.

Cape Town & The Garden Route Travel Guide
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