Lismore
Pop 27,500
With its heritage buildings and country town saunter, Lismore is the unassuming commercial centre of the Northern Rivers region. A vibrant community of creatives, a thriving Southern Cross University student population and a larger than average gay and lesbian presence add to the town’s eclecticism. It's an interesting place to visit, though most travellers prefer to stay on the coast or venture further into the hinterland.
1Sights & Activities
Lismore Regional GalleryGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.lismoregallery.org;
131 Molesworth St; 
h10am-4pm Tue,
Wed & Fri, to 6pm Thu, to 2pm Sat & Sun)
F
Lismore’s diminutive gallery has just enough space for two temporary exhibitions; they're usually excellent.
Koala Care CentreWILDLIFE REFUGE
(www.friendsofthekoala.org;
Rifle Range Rd; adult/family
$5/10; htours 10am
& 2pm Mon-Fri, 10am Sat)
This worthy centre takes in sick, injured and orphaned koalas; visits are only possible by guided tour at the designated times. To see koalas in the wild, head to Robinson’s Lookout (Robinson Ave, Girard's Hill), immediately south of the town centre.
Wilson River Experience WalkWALKING
Starts in the city centre and skirts the river for 3km. Along the way you’ll pass a bush-tucker garden, nurturing plants which once formed the daily diet of the local Widjabal clan.
Birdwing Butterfly WalkWALKING
In the suburb of Goonellabah, 6km east of the centre, the Birdwing Butterfly Walk has been planted with vines to attract the rare insect. You might also spot platypuses in the Tucki Tucki Creek, especially at dawn or sunset. To get here, take the Bruxner Hwy and turn right on Kadina St.
zFestivals & Events
Lismore Lantern ParadePARADE
(www.lanternparade.com;
hJun)
Over 30,000 people line the streets to watch giant illuminated creatures glide past on the Saturday closest to the winter solstice (June).
Tropical FruitsGAY & LESBIAN
(www.tropicalfruits.org.au;
h31
Dec)
This legendary New Year's bash is country NSW's biggest gay and lesbian event. There are also parties at Easter and on the Queen's Birthday holiday (June).
4Sleeping
Melville HouseB&B
(
%02-6621
5778; www.melvillehouselismore.com;
267 Ballina St; s/d without
bathroom $60/80, s with bathroom $90-110, d with bathroom
$120-140; 
n
a
s
#)
This grand family home was built in 1942 by the owner's grandfather and features the area's largest private swimming pool. The six rooms offer superb value and are decorated with local art, cut glass and antiques.
Elindale HouseB&B
(%02-6622
2533; www.elindale.com.au;
34 Second Ave; s/d
$135/150; a
W)
Any chintziness is tempered with modern art at this excellent B&B in a characterful wooden house. The four rooms all have their own bathroom and some have hefty four-poster beds.
5Eating
Goanna Bakery & CafeBAKERY, CAFE
(www.goannabakery.com.au;
171 Keen St; mains
$11-17; h8am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; 
v)
As well as baking organic sourdough bread and a delectable array of sweet things, this cavernous bakery-cafe serves a good selection of vegetarian and vegan meals.
Lismore Pie CartFAST FOOD
(cnr Magellan
& Molesworth Sts;
pies $4.80; h6am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
A local institution serving home-made meat pies, mash, mushy peas and gravy.
Palate at the GalleryMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%02-6622
8830; www.palateatthegallery.com;
133 Molesworth St; mains
breakfast $10-20, lunch $16-29, dinner $26-32; h10am-2.30pm
Tue & Wed, 10am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Thu & Fri, 8am-2pm &
6-9pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun;
W)
This slick pavilion has French doors that open onto a sunny, shrub-lined terrace. It morphs seamlessly from swish daytime cafe to Lismore's top restaurant, offering delicious dishes throughout.
7Shopping
Lismore has more markets than anywhere else
in the region, with a weekly organic
market (www.tropo.org.au; Lismore
Showground; h7.30-11am
Tue), produce market (www.farmersmarkets.org.au;
Magellan St; h3.30-6.30pm
Thu) and farmers' market (h8-11am
Sat), and a car boot market (Lismore
Shopping Sq, Uralba St;
h8am-2pm
Sun) every first and
third Sunday.
8Information
Lismore visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6626
0100; www.visitlismore.com.au;
cnr Molesworth & Ballina
Sts; h9.30am-4pm)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Lismore Regional AirportAIRPORT
(LSY;
%02-6622
8296; www.lismore.nsw.gov.au;
Bruxner Hwy)
Three kilometres south of the city.
Bus
Buses stop at the Lismore City Transit Centre (cnr Molesworth & Magellan Sts).
Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS
(%02-6622
1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)
Local buses plus services to/from Grafton (three hours), Ballina (1¼ hours), Lennox Head (one hour), Bangalow (1¼ hours) and Byron Bay (1½ hours); all $9.70.
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Coaches to/from Byron Bay ($6.45, one hour), Ballina ($7, 45 minutes), Mullumbimby ($8, one hour), Brunswick Heads ($9.60, 1½ hours) and Brisbane ($28.25, three hours).
Waller'sBUS
(%02-6622
6266; www.wallersbus.com)
At least three buses on weekdays to/from Nimbin ($9, 30 minutes).
Nimbin
Pop 1668
Welcome to Australia’s alternative lifestyle capital, an intriguing little town that struggles under the weight of its own cliches. Nimbin was once an unremarkable Northern Rivers dairy village but that changed forever in May 1973. Thousands of students, hippies and devotees of the back-to-earth movement descended on the town for the Aquarius Festival with many staying on and creating new communities in the beautiful valleys in an attempt to live out the ideals expressed during the 10-day celebration.
Another landmark in Nimbin’s history came in 1979 with the Terania Creek Battle, the first major conservation victory of its kind in Australia, which is often credited with ensuring the survival of NSW’s vast tracts of rainforest. Protestor Falls, in what is now Nightcap National Park, is named in their honour.
Today the old psychedelic murals of the rainbow serpent dreaming and marijuana bliss that line Nimbin's main street are fading and the dreadlocked, beaded locals are weathered. While genuine remnants of the peace-and-love generation remain, the town has changed a lot since the '80s. The brazen pot dealers who make a living from the bus tours that barrel up from Byron peddle harder drugs as well, and alcohol-fueled violence is on the rise.
Sadly the Rainbow Cafe, bought by the hippies when they first arrived, and which served as the town lounge room (and star tourist attraction) for some 40 years, was burnt down in 2014, taking it with it the Nimbin Museum.
1Sights
Hemp EmbassyCULTURAL CENTRE
(%02-6689
1842; www.hempembassy.net;
51 Cullen St; h9am-5pm)
Part shop, part stronghold for minor political group the Hemp Party, this colourful place raises consciousness about marijuana legalisation, and provides all the tools and fashion items you’ll need to attract police attention. The embassy organises the MardiGrass festival each May (www.nimbinmardigrass.com).
Djanbung GardensGARDEN
(%02-6689
1755; www.permaculture.com.au;
74 Cecil St; tours
$5; h10.30am-3pm
Wed-Sat, tours 11am Sat)F
Nimbin was at the forefront of the organic gardening movement and this world-renowned permaculture education centre, created out of a degraded cow pasture, is home to food forests, vegetable gardens, a drought-proof system of dams, ponds and furry farm animals. There's a range of short-courses available.
Nightcap National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/nightcap-national-park)
The spectacular waterfalls, sheer cliff of solidified lava and dense rainforest of 80-sq-km Nightcap National Park are perhaps to be expected from somewhere with the highest annual rainfall in NSW. It's part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area and home to many native birds and protected creatures. From Nimbin, a 10km drive via Tuntable Falls Rd and Newton Dr leads to the edge of the park and then on to Mt Nardi (800m).
The Historic Nightcap Track (16km, 1½ days), which was stomped out by postal workers in the late 19th century, runs from Mt Nardi to Rummery Park, a picnic spot and camping ground. Peate’s Mountain Lookout, just on from Rummery Park, offers a panoramic view all the way to Byron. The Minyon Loop (7.5km, 4 hours) is a terrific half-day tramp around the spectacular Minyon Falls, which are good for an icy splash. A largely unsealed but very scenic road leads from The Channon to the Terania Creek Picnic Area, where an easy track heads to Protestor Falls (1.4km return).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BORDER RANGES NATIONAL PARK
Border Ranges National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/border-ranges-national-park; vehicle entry $7)
The vast Border Ranges National Park covers 317 sq km on the NSW side of the McPherson Range, which runs along the NSW–Queensland border. It's part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area and it's estimated that representatives of a quarter of all bird species in Australia can be found here.
The eastern section of the park can be explored on the 44km Tweed Range Scenic Drive (gravel and usable in dry weather), which loops through the park from Lillian Rock (midway between Uki and Kyogle) to Wiangaree (north of Kyogle on Summerland Way). The signposting on access roads isn’t good (when in doubt take roads signposted to the national park), but it’s well worth the effort.
The road runs through mountain rainforest, with steep hills and lookouts over the Tweed Valley to Wollumbin Mt Warning and the coast. The short walk out to the Pinnacle Lookout is a highlight and one of the best places to see the silhouette of Wollumbin against a rising sun. At Antarctic Beech there is a forest of 2000-year-old beech trees. From here, a walking track (about 5km) leads down to lush rainforest, swimming holes and a picnic area at Brindle Creek.
4Sleeping
There are dozens of local farms happy to host volunteers; contact Willing Workers on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.com.au) for more information.
oNimbin Rox
YHAHOSTEL
(%02-6689
0022; www.nimbinrox.com; 74 Thornburn
St; camping/teepees/dm/d from
$14/$28/38/72;
iWs)
Escape the coastal crowds at this hostel and camping ground perched on a lush hill at the edge of town. There are plenty of spots to unwind with hammocks strung among the trees, a lovely heated pool and nearby swimming creek. Friendly managers go out of their way to please with free pancake breakfasts and a regular shuttle run into town.
Grey Gum LodgeGUESTHOUSE
(%02-6689
1713; www.greygumlodge.com;
2 High St; r
$75-120; iW)
The valley views from the front veranda of this palm-draped wooden Queenslander-style house are gorgeous. All the rooms are comfortable, tastefully furnished and have their own bathrooms.
Rainbow Retreat BackpackersHOSTEL
(%02-6689
1262; www.rainbowretreatnimbin.com;
75 Thorburn St; camp
sites/dm/s/d $15/25/40/60, cabins from $120)
Very basic, but totally in the age-of-Aquarius spirit, this back-to-the-bush retreat has a set of brightly coloured cabins, a small guesthouse enveloped by banana palms and shady camp sites.
5Eating
Nimbin Pizza & TrattoriaITALIAN
(%02-6689
1427; 70 Cullen St; mains
$12-15; h5.30-9pm)
Tasty pizza and pasta, and live music most Thursdays.
Nimbin HotelPUB FOOD
(%02-6689
1246; www.nimbinhotel.com.au;
Cullen St; mains
$11-18; h11am-10pm)
This classic boozer has a vast back porch overlooking a verdant valley. The surprisingly good Hummingbird Bistro serves up everything from a 'treehugger's salad' to curries and grilled barramundi. There's live music most weekends and backpacker rooms upstairs.
7Shopping
Nimbin MarketsMARKET
(www.facebook.com/NimbinMarkets;
Nimbin Community
Centre; h8am-3pm
Sun)
Nimbin's rainbow tribe comes out in force on market days, the fourth and fifth Sundays of the month.
Blue Knob Farmers' MarketMARKET
(719 Blue Knob
Rd, Lillian Rock;
h9am-1pm
Sat)
A real-deal farmers' markets in the garden of the Blue Knob Hall Gallery.
Nimbin Candle FactoryCRAFTS
(%02-6689
1010; www.nimbincandles.com.au;
h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri)
Sells hand-dipped paraffin candles shaped like marijuana leaves, pyramids, wizards and unicorns in the Old Butter Factory by the bridge on the Murwillumbah side of town.
Nimbin Artists GalleryARTS, CRAFTS
(www.nimbinartistsgallery.org;
49 Cullen St; h10am-5pm)
Local artists and craftspeople display and sell their wares here.
8Information
Nimbin visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6689
1388; www.visitnimbin.com.au;
46 Cullen St; h10am-4pm)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Gosel’sBUS
(%02-6677
9394)
Two buses on weekdays to Uki ($12.70, 40 minutes) and Murwillumbah ($14.70, one hour).
Waller'sBUS
(%02-6622
6266; www.wallersbus.com)
At least three buses on weekdays to/from Lismore ($9, 30 minutes).
Shuttles & Tours
Various operators offer day tours and shuttles to Nimbin from Byron Bay, sometimes with stops at surrounding sights. Most leave at 10am and return around 6pm.
Happy CoachBUS
(%02-6685
3996; return $25)
WORTH A TRIP
UKI & WOLLUMBIN NATIONAL PARK
Uki (pronounced 'uke-eye', population
250) is a sleepy village tucked alongside the surging Tweed River,
under the numinous peak of Wollumbin Mt Warning. Although not as
self-consciously hippyish as nearby Nimbin, it does have more than
its fair share of holistic health and organics shops. Alternative
lifestylers can be spotted at the weekly farmers' market (Uki
Hall; h8am-12.30pm
Sat) and the
Uki Buttery Bazaar (Uki Village
Buttery; h8am-2pm 3rd
Sun of month).
Northwest of Uki, 41-sq-km Wollumbin National Park (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/wollumbin-national-park) surrounds Wollumbin Mt Warning (1156m), the most dramatic feature of the hinterland, towering over the valley. The summit is the first part of mainland Australia to see sunlight each day, a drawcard that encourages many to trek to the top. You should be aware that, under the law of the local Bundjalung people, only certain people are allowed to climb the sacred mountain; they ask you not to climb it, out of respect for this. Instead, you can get an artist's impression of the view from the 360-degree mural at the Murwillumbah Visitor Information Centre.
A great place to stay is Mavis's Kitchen and Cabins (%02-6679
5664; www.maviseskitchen.com.au;
64 Mt Warning Rd; mains
$24-28; h11am-3pm Wed,
Thu & Sun, 11am-3pm & 5.30-9pm Fri &
Sat), a sublime slice of
north coast life with gorgeous gardens and a country-style menu
offering slow-cooked organic fare.
Murwillumbah
Pop 8530
Sitting pretty on the banks of the wide Tweed River, this old-fashioned country town is surrounded by a lush green coat of sugar cane and banana palms, while the ancient volcanic caldera of Mt Warning looms in the distance.
1Sights
Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art CentreGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP ; artgallery.tweed.nsw.gov.au;
2 Mistral Rd; h10am-5pm
Wed-Sun)F
This exceptional gallery overlooking the river is an architectural delight and home to some of Australia’s finest, including a new extension devoted to acclaimed Lismore-born painter Margaret Olley (1923–2011) which features a re-creation of her famous home studio.
Tropical Fruit WorldGARDENS
(%02-6677
7222; www.tropicalfruitworld.com.au;
Duranbah Rd; adult/child
$45/25; h10am-4pm)
North of town under the Big Avocado, this fruity theme park–plantation claims to have the world's largest collection of rare and tropical fruit – 500 varieties in total. It offers guided tractor tours, tastings, boat rides, native critters, a petting zoo and a miniature train.
4Sleeping
Mount Warning-Murwillumbah YHAHOSTEL
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6672
3763; www.yha.com.au; 1 Tumbulgum
Rd; dm/d from $33/72)
S
This former river-captain’s home now houses a colourful waterfront hostel with eight-bed dorms. There’s free ice cream at night plus canoe and bike hire.
5Eating
Sugar BeatCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6672
2330; www.sugarbeatcafe.com.au;
6-8 Commercial Rd; mains
$7-17; h7.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat;
v)
Park yourself by the sunny window or take in the scene from one of the pavement tables. Food choices include tasty cafe-style fusion fare and locally famous baked goods.
Modern GrocerCAFE, DELI
(%02-6672
5007; www.themoderngrocer.com;
3 Wollumbin St; mains
$8-11; h8.30am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
The deli counter has goodies fit to turn picnics into gluttonous feasts. Sit yourself at the communal table and tuck into a cooked breakfast, sandwich or wrap.
7Shopping
The weekly Caldera
Farmers' Market (www.murwillumbahfarmersmarket.com.au;
Murwillumbah Showground, 37 Queensland
Rd; h7-11am
Wed) has produce, food
stalls and live music. The Cottage Market
(Knox Park; h8am-1pm
Sat) is held on the
first and third Saturday of the month, and the Showground Market (www.murwillumbahshowground.com;
Murwillumbah
Showground; h8am-1pm
Sun) fills up the fourth
Sunday.
8Information
Murwillumbah visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6672
1340; www.tweedtourism.com.au;
cnr Alma St & Tweed Valley
Way; h9am-4.30pm)
Worth a stop. Has national-park information and passes, plus a really great rainforest display and gallery.
8Getting There & Away
Gosel'sBUS
(%02-6677
9394)
Two buses on weekdays to Nimbin ($14.70, one hour) via Uki.
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Coaches to/from Lismore ($12.90, two hours), Ballina ($10.40, 1½ hours), Bangalow ($9.70, 1¼ hours), Byron Bay ($6.45, one hour) and Brisbane ($15.30, 1½ hours).
PremierBUS
(%13 34
10; www.premierms.com.au)
Daily coaches to/from Sydney ($92, 14¾ hours), Port Macquarie ($66, 7½ hours), Coffs Harbour ($52, 6¼ hours), Byron Bay ($12, one hour) and Brisbane ($25, 1¾ hours).
ABORIGINAL MID & NORTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES
The area from the Tomaree Peninsula to Forster and as far west as Gloucester is the land of the Worimi people. Very little of it is now in their possession, but in 2001 the sand dunes of the Stockton Bight were returned to them, creating the Worimi Conservation Lands. Dark Point Aboriginal Place in Myall Lakes National Park has been significant to the Worimi for around 4000 years. Local lore has it that in the late 19th century it was the site of one of many massacres at the hands of white settlers, when a community was herded onto the rocks and pushed off.
Heading north from Worimi land, you enter Birpai country, which includes Taree and Port Macquarie. The Sea Acres Rainforest Centre has a section devoted to the local people, and Birpai guides lead bush-tucker tours from here.
After travelling through the lands of the Dainggatti people (roughly equivalent to Kempsey Shire) you then enter Gumbainggir country, which stretches up to the Clarence River. Places such as Nambucca Heads still have a sizeable Aboriginal community. Nearby, Red Rock is the site of another 19th-century massacre.
The northern part of the NSW coast and
much of the Gold Coast is the domain of the
Bundjalung nation, including their sacred mountain
Wollumbin Mt Warning. Tours run by
Aboriginal Cultural Concepts offer an introduction to
Bundjalung life. The Minjungbal Aboriginal
Cultural Centre (
GOOGLE MAP ; %07-5524
2109; www.facebook.com/MinjungbalMuseum;
Kirkwood Rd, South Tweed Heads
; adult/child $15/7.50; h10am-4pm
Mon-Fri) at Tweed Heads
is also worth visiting.
Clarence Coast
Grafton
Pop 19,000
Don’t be fooled by the franchises along the highway – Grafton's grid of gracious streets has grand pubs and some splendid old houses. In late October the town is awash with the soft lilac rain of jacaranda flowers. Susan Island, in the middle of the river, is home to a large colony of fruit bats; their evening flight is an impressive sight.
1Sights
Victoria StreetAREA
Victoria St is the city's main heritage precinct, with some fine examples of 19th-century architecture, including the courthouse (1862) at number 47, the Anglican Cathedral (commenced 1884) on the corner of Duke St, and Roches Family Hotel (1871) at number 85.
Grafton Regional GalleryGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6642
3177; www.graftongallery.nsw.gov.au;
158 Fitzroy St; admission by
donation; h10am-4pm
Tue-Sun)
Occupying an impressive 1880 house, this small gallery has an interesting collection of NSW landscape paintings and regularly displays special exhibitions.
Clarence River Historical SocietyMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.clarencehistory.org.au;
190 Fitzroy St; adult/child
$3/1; h1-4pm Tue-Thu
& Sun)
Based in pretty Schaeffer House (1903) this little museum displays treasures liberated from attics across town.
zFestivals & Events
July Racing CarnivalSPORTS
(www.crjc.com.au; hJul)
A week-long carnival culminating in the Grafton Cup, the richest horse-racing event in country Australia.
Jacaranda FestivalCULTURAL
(www.jacarandafestival.org.au;
hOct)
For two weeks from late October, Australia’s longest-running floral festival paints the town mauve.
4Sleeping
Gateway VillageCAMPGROUND
(%02-6642
4225; www.thegatewayvillage.com.au;
598 Summerland Way; camp
sites/cabins from $22/120; aiWs)
Putting the 'park' back into holiday park, this attractive complex has manicured gardens and an ornamental lake filled with waterlilies.
Annies B&BB&B
(%0421 914
295; www.anniesbnbgrafton.com;
13 Mary St; s/d
$145/160; aWs)
This beautiful Victorian house on a leafy corner has private rooms with an old-fashioned ambiance, set apart from the rest of the family home. A continental breakfast is provided.
5Eating
Heart & Soul Wholefood CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6642
2166; cafeheartandsoul.com.au;
124A Prince St; $8-15;
h7.30am-3pm,
to 2pm Sat, 8am-12pm Sun; v)
This beautifully styled cafe is the work of two couples who love plant-based foods. Expect ceramic bowls filled with warming Asian numbers and bright salad dishes. Sweet treats like the choc mint 'cheese-fake' are worth sampling.
Vines at 139CAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6642
5500; 139 Fitzroy St; mains
$18-25; h7.30am-10pm)
A lovely heritage house decked out in cutesy floral prints and jam jars. It’s a popular place with a menu that strays all over the world, from Thai curries to Mediterranean salads.
8Information
Clarence River visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6642
4677; www.clarencetourism.com;
cnr Spring St & Pacific
Hwy; h9am-5pm; W)
South of the river.
NPWS officeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6641
1500; Level 4, 49 Victoria St; h8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Clarence Valley Regional AirportAIRPORT
(GFN;
%02-6643
0200; www.clarence.nsw.gov.au)
Twelve kilometres southeast of town.
Train & Bus
BuswaysBUS
(%02-6642
2954; www.busways.com.au)
Runs local services including four to eight buses to Maclean (one hour), Yamba (1¼ hours) and Angourie (1½ hours) daily; all $12.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473
946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Coaches to/from Sydney ($132, 10½ hours, three daily), Nambucca Heads ($31, 2½ hours, two daily), Coffs Harbour ($17, one hour, three daily), Byron Bay ($28, three hours, three daily) and Brisbane ($61, 6½ hours, three daily).
Northern Rivers BuslinesBUS
(%02-6626
1499; www.nrbuslines.com.au)
One bus to/from Maclean ($9.70, 43 minutes) and Lismore ($9.70, three hours) on weekdays.
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN, BUS
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Three trains head to/from Sydney ($71, 10 hours), Kempsey ($25, three hours), Nambucca Heads ($19, two hours) and Coffs Harbour ($12, 1¼ hours) daily, and one continues to Brisbane ($47, 4¼ hours). There's also a daily coach to Maclean ($6.50, 35 minutes), Yamba ($9.60, 1¼ hours), Ballina ($21, three hours), Lennox Head ($23.40, 3½ hours) and Byron Bay ($25, 3½ hours).
PremierBUS
(%13 34
10; www.premierms.com.au)
Daily coach to/from Sydney ($67, 9½ hours), Nambucca Heads ($34, 1¾ hours), Coffs Harbour ($34, one hour), Byron Bay ($47, 4¼ hours) and Brisbane ($52, 7½ hours).
Ryans Bus ServiceBUS
(%02-6652
3201; www.ryansbusservice.com.au)
Weekday buses to/from Woolgoolga ($21, 1½ hours), Red Rock ($20, 50 minutes) and Coffs Harbour ($21.80, two hours).
Yuraygir National Park
The 535-sq-km Yuraygir National Park (vehicle entry $7) covers a 60km stretch of coast north from Red Rock, and is an important habitat for the endangered coastal emu. The isolated beaches are best discovered on the Yuraygir Coastal Walk, a 65km waymarked walk from Angourie to Red Rock following a series of tracks, trails, beaches and rock platforms, and passing through the villages of Brooms Head, Minnie Water and Wooli. It’s best walked north to south with the sun at your back. Walkers can bush-camp at basic camping grounds (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Yuraygir-National-Park; adult/child $10/5) along the route; only some have drinking water available. The visitor centres stock fold-out walk guides ($2).
Wooli (population 493) occupies a long isthmus within the southern half of the park, with a river estuary on one side and the ocean on the other; this only adds to its isolated charm. In early October it hosts the Australian National Goanna Pulling Championships (www.goannapulling.com.au), where participants squat on all fours, attach leather harnesses to their heads and engage in a cranial tug-of-war.
If you fancy settling in for a few days'
fishing, kayaking and lazing on the beach, Solitary Islands Marine Park Resort (%02-6649
7519; www.solitaryislandsresort.com.au;
383 North St; camp
sites/cabins from $31/140; aW) has
a range of tidy cabins in a scrubby riverside setting.
Grafton to Yamba
The delta between Grafton and the coast is a patchwork of farmland in which the now sinuous and spreading Clarence River forms more than 100 islands, some very large. Here you'll see the southernmost sugar-cane plantations and Queenslander-style houses – wooden structures perched on stilts and with high-pitched roofs to allow air circulation in the hot summers. The burning of the cane fields (May to December) adds a smoky tang to the air.
It’s worth taking a small detour from the Pacific Hwy to Ulmarra (population 435), a heritage-listed town with a river port. The Ulmarra Hotel (www.ulmarrahotel.com.au; 2 Coldstream St, Ulmarra) is a quaint old corner pub with a wrought-iron veranda and a greener-than-green beer garden that stretches down to the river.
Maclean (population 2600) is
a picturesque little riverside town (with no less than three pubs)
that takes its Scottish heritage seriously, even wrapping its lamp
posts in tartan. Stroll the riverfront, check out the shops and
have a meal at the unexpectedly hip On the
Bite (215 River St, Maclean ; mains
$12-18; h7am-4.30pm
Mon-Sat ).
Yamba & Angourie
Pop 6040 & 184
At the mouth of the Clarence River, the fishing town of Yamba is rapidly growing in popularity thanks to its quasi-bohemian lifestyle, top beaches and excellent eateries. Oft heard statements like 'Byron Bay 20 years ago' are not unfounded. Its neighbour Angourie, 5km to the south, is a tiny, chilled-out place that has long been a draw for experienced surfers who were thrilled when it became one of Australia's first surf reserves.
1Sights & Activities
Surfing for the big boys and girls is at Angourie Point, but Yamba’s beaches have something for everyone else. Main Beach is the busiest, with an ocean pool, banana palms and a grassy slope for those who don’t want to get sandy. Convent Beach is a sunbaker’s haven and Turner’s, protected by the breakwater, is ideal for surf lessons. You can sometimes spot dolphins along the long stretch of Pippi Beach.
A walking and cycling track winds along Yamba’s coastline. The prettiest bit is from Pippi Beach around Lovers Point to Convent Beach. The Yuraygir Coastal Walk begins in Angourie.
Angourie Blue PoolsSPRING
(The Crescent)
These springwater-fed waterholes are the remains of the quarry used for the breakwater. The daring climb the cliff faces and plunge to the depths. The saner can slip silently into the water, surrounded by bush, only metres from the surf.
Bundjalung National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/bundjalung-national-park; vehicle entry $7)
Stretching for 25km along the coast north of the Clarence River to South Evans Head, this national park is largely untouched. Most of it is best explored with a 4WD. However, the southern reaches can be easily reached from Yamba via the passenger-only Clarence River Ferries to Iluka (at least four daily). This section of the park includes Iluka Nature Reserve, a stand of rainforest facing Iluka Beach, part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area. On the other side of Iluka Bluff the literally named Ten Mile Beach unfurls.
Yamba KayakKAYAKING
(%02-6646
0065; www.yambakayak.com;
3/5hr $70/90)
Half- and full-day adventures are the specialty, with forays into nearby wilderness areas.
Yamba-Angourie Surf SchoolSURFING
(%02-6646
1496; www.yambaangouriesurfschool.com.au;
2hr/3-day lessons
$50/120)
Lessons are run by former Australian surfing champion Jeremy Walters.
Clarence River FerriesCRUISE
(%0408 664
556; www.clarenceriverferries.com;
h11am-3pm)
As well as regular ferries to Iluka (adults $7.20, children $3.60), it runs a live-music cruise on Sunday (adult/child $30/15) and a Harwood Island cruise twice a week (adult/child $20/10).
GONDWANA RAINFORESTS OF AUSTRALIA
Spread between 41 distinct sites (including 16 national parks) in the north of NSW and the southernmost parts of Queensland, this Unesco World Heritage List–inscribed area is the world's largest expanse of subtropical rainforest. In evolutionary terms it's a time capsule, representing ecosystems that have existed since before the breakup of Gondwana, the ancient super-continent that once included Australia, New Zealand, Antarctica, South America, Africa and India. It's thought that Gondwana started to break up around 80 million years ago, with Australia separating from Antarctica around 45 million years ago.
To journey into the Jurassic, visit Iluka Nature Reserve, Dorrigo National Park, New England National Park, Nightcap National Park, Wollumbin National Park or Border Ranges National Park.
4Sleeping
Yamba YHAHOSTEL
(%02-6646
3997; www.yha.com.au; 26
Coldstream St, Yamba;
dm $30-34, r $80; iWs)
This welcoming, family-run hostel has a popular bar and restaurant downstairs, and a barbecue area with a tiny pool on the roof.
Blue Dolphin Holiday ResortCAMPGROUND
(%02-6646
2194; www.bluedolphin.com.au;
Yamba Rd, Yamba; camp
sites/cabins from $37/105; aiWs)
Right on the river the units at this sprawling holiday park range from simple cabins to luxurious houses. There's plenty to keep the kids happy with two pool complexes and a playground.
Yamba Beach MotelMOTEL
(%02-6646
9411; www.yambabeachmotel.com.au;
30 Clarence St,
Yamba; r $139-199; aWs)
At this boutique-style motel, rooms have large flat-screen TVs, extremely comfy beds and quality toiletries. There's also an excellent cafe that will deliver meals to your room, and a beach just down the hill.
ClubyambaAPARTMENTS
(%0427 461
981; www.clubyamba.com.au;
14 Henson Lane,
Yamba; apt from $145; W)
At the top of the hill are four brightly painted contemporary apartments and two sea-view suites. There's also an architecturally designed one-bedroom town house near the river. All are luxurious options.
Surf MotelMOTEL
(%02-6646
2200; www.yambasurfmotel.com.au;
2 Queen St, Yamba; r
$120-180; aW)
On a bluff overlooking Yamba's main beach, this modern place has eight spacious studios with kitchenettes. Some have balconies too. Aside from the surf, it's blissfully quiet.
5Eating & Drinking
oBeachwood
CafeTURKISH
(%02-6646
9781; www.beachwoodcafe.com.au;
22 High St, Yamba; mains
breakfast $13-16, lunch $18-22; h7am-2pm
Tue-Sun)
Cookbook author Sevtap Yüce steps out of the pages to deliver her bold Turkish Flavours to the plate at this wonderful little cafe. Most of the tables are outside, where the grass verge has been commandeered for a kitchen garden.
Leche CafeCAFE
(%0401 471
202; www.facebook.com/LecheCafe;
27 Coldstream St,
Yamba; $14-25;
h6am-2pm)
After some backyard yoga at Leche Cafe you might want to tuck into coconut bread and a Byron Bay–based Marvell coffee. The sophisticated lunch menu is just as wholesome with beetroot burgers, cauliflower curries and fish tacos.
Irons & CraigCAFE
(%02-6646
1258; ironsandcraig.com; 29
Coldstream St, Yamba;
$12-16; h7am-3pm
Thu-Tue, to 11am Wed)
At this 1930s beach house they do pitch-perfect coffee, and kids fizz for the milkshakes (with home-made ice cream) in a jar. There's a five-course degustation dinner at least once a month.
Pacific HotelPUB
(%02-6646
2466; www.pacifichotelyamba.com.au;
18 Pilot St, Yamba)
Perched on the the cliffs overlooking Yamba Beach, this hotel has some of the best pub views in Australia. There's regular live music and DJ nights, and the food's good too.
8Getting There & Away
BuswaysBUS
(%02-6645
8941; www.busways.com.au)
There are four to eight buses from Yamba to Angourie ($3.30, nine minutes), Maclean ($8.90, 19 minutes) and Grafton ($12, 1¼ hours) daily.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473
946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Has a daily coach to/from Sydney ($139, 11½ hours), Coffs Harbour ($28, two hours), Byron Bay ($15, 2¼ hours), Surfers Paradise ($41, five hours) and Brisbane ($46, 6¼ hours).
NSW TrainLinkBUS
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Has a daily coach to Maclean ($7, 30 minutes), Grafton ($9.60, 1¼ hours), Lennox Head ($19, 2½ hours), Ballina ($17, 2¼ hours) and Byron Bay ($13.70, three hours).
Coffs Harbour Region
Coffs Harbour
Pop 71,798
Despite its inland city centre, Coffs has a string of fabulous beaches. Equally popular with families and backpackers, the town offers plenty of water-based activities, action sports and wildlife encounters, not to mention the cultural beacon that is the Big Banana.
Originally called Korff’s Harbour, the town was settled by Europeans in the 1860s. The jetty was built in 1892 to load cedar and other logs. Bananas were first grown in the area in the 1880s, and the industry reached its peak in the 1960s. These days tourism is the mainstay of the local economy.
The town is split into three areas: the jetty area, the commercial centre and the beaches.
Coffs Harbour
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
1Sights
Park Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is a long, lovely stretch of sand backed by dense shrubbery and sand dunes, which conceal the buildings beyond. Jetty Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is somewhat more sheltered. Diggers Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), reached by turning off the highway near the Big Banana, is popular with surfers, with swells averaging 1m to 1.5m. Naturists let it all hang out at Little Diggers Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), just inside the northern headland.
oMuttonbird
IslandISLAND
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/Muttonbird-Island-Nature-Reserve)
The Gumbainggir people knew this island as Giidany Miirlarl, meaning Place of the Moon. It was joined to Coffs Harbour by the northern breakwater in 1935. The walk to the top (quite steep at the end) provides sweeping vistas. From late August to early April this eco treasure is occupied by some 12,000 pairs of wedge-tailed shearwaters, with their cute offspring visible in December and January.
North Coast Regional Botanic GardenGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.ncrbg.com.au; Hardacre
St; admission by donation; h9am-5pm)
Immerse yourself in the subtropical surrounds of the greenhouses, sensory gardens and lush rainforest of these botanic gardens. The 8km Coffs Creek Walk ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) passes by, starting at the pool on Coff St and finishing near the ocean.
Bunker Cartoon GalleryGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffsharbour.nsw.gov.au;
John Champion Way; adult/child
$2/1; h10am-4pm
Mon-Sat)
Displays rotating selections from its permanent collection of 18,000 cartoons in a WWII bunker.
Coffs Harbour Regional GalleryGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffsharbour.nsw.gov.au;
Rigby House, cnr Coff & Duke
Sts; h10am-4pm
Tue-Sat)F
Exhibits regional art and touring exhibitions.
Big BananaAMUSEMENT PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.bigbanana.com; 351 Pacific
Hwy; combo pass adult/child $57/49; h9am-5pm)F
Built in 1964 the Big Banana started the craze for ‘Big Things’ in Australia. Admission is free, with charges for associated attractions such as ice skating, toboggan rides, minigolf, the waterpark, plantation tours and the irresistibly named 'World of Bananas Experience'.
Solitary Islands AquariumAQUARIUM
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.solitaryislandsaquarium.com;
Bay Dr, Charlesworth
Bay; adult/child $10/6; h10am-4pm Sat
& Sun, daily during school holidays)
On weekends this small aquarium belonging to Southern Cross University's Marine Science Centre is open to the public. Touch tanks and enthusiastic guides provide close encounters with fish, coral and an octopus (try catch him at feeding time) that frequent the waters of the Solitary Islands Marine Park.
2Activities
Canoes, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards can be hired from Mangrove Jack's cafe. Keen hikers should pick up a copy of the Solitary Islands Coastal Walk brochure from the visitor centre ($2).
Jetty DiveDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6651
1611; www.jettydive.com.au;
398 Harbour Dr)
The Solitary Islands Marine Park is a meeting place of tropical waters and southern currents, making for a wonderful combination of corals, reef fish and seaweeds. This dive shop offers spectacular diving and snorkelling trips (double boat dives $170), PADI certification ($495), and, from June to October, whale watching (adult/child $59/49).
Spirit of Coffs HarbourCRUISE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6650
0155; www.gowhalewatching.com.au;
Coffs Harbour
Marina; per person $45; h9.30am
May-Nov)
Whale watching on an 18.3m catamaran.
Coffs City SkydiversSKYDIVING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
1167; www.coffsskydivers.com.au;
Coffs Harbour
Airport; tandem jumps $229-399)
Throw yourself out of a plane from 15,000ft in the highest beach skydive in Australia.
East Coast Surf SchoolSURFING
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
5515; www.eastcoastsurfschool.com.au;
Diggers Beach; lessons from
$55)
A particularly female-friendly outfit run by former pro surfer Helene Enevoldson.
Lee Winkler's Surf SchoolSURFING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6650
0050; www.leewinklerssurfschool.com.au;
Park Beach; from
$55)
One of the oldest surf schools in Coffs.
TTours
Liquid AssetsADVENTURE TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6658
0850; www.surfrafting.com;
38 Marina Dr; half-day
tours from $50)
Offers a suite of watery tours and activities, including kayaking, white-water rafting, surfing and platypus spotting.
zFestivals & Events
Pittwater to Coffs Harbour RegattaSPORTS
(www.pittwatertocoffs.com.au;
hJan)
A mini Sydney to Hobart style celebration which starts in Sydney on 2 January and finishes here.
Coffs Harbour International Buskers & Comedy FestivalMUSIC
(www.coffsharbourbuskers.com;
hlate
Sep)
Held in late September.
4Sleeping
One of many holiday-apartment agents is
Pacific Property Management (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6652
1466; www.coffsaccommodation.com.au;
101 Park Beach Rd).
Coffs Harbour YHAHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6652
6462; www.yha.com.au; 51
Collingwood St;
dm $27-33, r
$70-140; nis)
With hostels offering service and amenities like these, it’s a wonder hotels don’t go out of business. The dorms are spacious, the private rooms have bathrooms, and the TV lounge and kitchen are immaculate. You can hire surfboards and bikes.
Aussitel BackpackersHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
1871; www.aussitel.com; 312 Harbour
Dr; dm/d from $27/65; iWs)
Don’t be put off by the bright orange exterior. This capacious brick house has homely dorms and a shady courtyard. Surfboards, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, canoes and snorkelling gear are free to borrow. Car rental is cheap.
Park Beach Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6648
4888; www.coffsholidays.com.au;
Ocean Pde; camp
sites/cabins from $35/87; Ws)
This place is massive and ideally located at the beach. Kids are well catered for with a jumping pillow and an exceptionally fun pool featuring slides and fountains.
Bosuns Inn MotelMOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
2251; www.motelcoffsharbour.com;
37 Ocean Pde; r
$95; as)
The friendly owners keep everything shipshape at this well-priced, nautical-style motel across the road from Park Beach. There's a nice pool at the rear.
Coffs Jetty BnBB&B
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
4587; www.coffsjetty.com.au;
41a Collingwood St; d from
$125; W)
A cut above your average B&B, this suburban town house has tastefully appointed rooms and terrific bathrooms. It's an easy walk to the beach and restaurants.
Caribbean MotelMOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6652
1500; www.caribbeanmotel.com.au;
353 Harbour Dr; r/apt from
$132/165; aWs)
Close to the jetty, this 24-unit motel has been tastefully renovated. The best rooms have balconies, views and spa baths, and there are great-value one-bedroom suites with kitchenettes.
Observatory ApartmentsAPARTMENTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6650
0462; www.theobservatory.com.au;
30-36 Camperdown St; apt from
$170; aWs)
The studio, two- and three-bedroom apartments in this attractive modern complex are bright and airy, with chef-friendly kitchens. They all have balconies with ocean views and some have spa baths.
5Eating
Old John'sCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/oldjohns;
358 Harbour Dr; mains
$10-17; h7am-4pm
Sun-Tue, to 11pm Wed-Sat)
Cheery young staff prepare top brews and excellent food at this hip cafe, which is decked out with mismatched furniture and great art. Evenings see live music, cocktails and $15 pasta and wine deals.
Cafe AquaCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6652
5566; www.cafeaqua.com.au;
57 Ocean Pde; mains
$10-19; h7am-3pm)
This excellent cafe near Park Beach whips up substantial cooked breakfasts and an impressive range of bagels and burgers for lunch. The coffee's good too.
Yknot BistroPUB FOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6651
1741; www.yknotbistro.com.au;
Coffs Harbour Yacht Club, 30 Marina
Dr; mains breakfast $13-18, lunch $17-30, dinner
$21-33; h7am-2.30pm
& 6-8.30pm)
This busy eatery serves pub-style seafood, steaks and pasta. Best of all, it has an ocean view – rare in Coffs – and plenty of outdoor seating.
Mangrove Jack'sCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6652
5517; www.mangrovejackscafe.com.au;
Promenade Centre, Harbour
Dr; mains breakfast $9-16, lunch $17-25, dinner
$24-30; h7.30am-3pm
Sun-Thu, 7.30am-3pm & 5-9pm Fri & Sat; W)
The attraction here is the wonderful location on a quiet bend of Coffs Creek. Enjoy a cold beer or a coffee on the balcony and catch up on some emails using the free wi-fi.
oFiascoITALIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6651
2006; www.fiascorestaurant.com.au;
22 Orlando St; mains
$38; h5-9pm
Tue-Sat)
Classic Italian fare is prepared in an open kitchen using produce from the best local suppliers and herbs from its own garden. Expect earthy delights like bean soup, wood-fired pizza and home-made pasta. If you're not overly hungry, grab some antipasti at the bar.
ZulusETHIOPIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6652
1588; www.zuluscoffs.com;
Best Western Zebra Motel, 27 Grafton
St; mains $35; h6-8.30pm
Tue-Sat)
This jungle-print African restaurant loves to surprise; just take a look at the menu. It may not be truly authentic, but it is certainly high on flavour and finger-licking fun.
6Drinking & Nightlife
See Thursday’s edition of the Coffs Harbour Advocate (www.coffscoastadvocate.com.au) for listings.
Surf Club Park BeachPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6652
9870; www.surfclubparkbeach.com;
23 Surf Club Rd, Park
Beach; h7am-11pm)
A Sunday afternoon session on the beach deck listening to local musicians is one of the top Coffs' experiences. Drinks can move into a seafood or tapas dinner.
Hoey MoeyPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.hoeymoey.com.au;
84 Ocean Pde; h10am-late; W)
The massive inner beer garden gives a good indication of how much this place kicks off in summer. Pool competitions, live music, quiz nights and crab racing fill up the week.
Coast HotelPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.coasthotel.com.au;
2 Moonee St; h11am-late)
Lovers of a lazy afternoon in the beer garden will enjoy the landscaped decking and couch-filled breakaway areas.
8Information
Visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6648
4990; www.coffscoast.com.au;
Big Banana, 351 Pacific
Hwy; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Coffs Harbour AirportAIRPORT
(CFS;
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6648
4767; www.coffscoast.com.au/airport;
Airport Dr)
Three kilometres southwest of town.
Bus
Long-distance and regional buses leave from a shelter ( GOOGLE MAP ) adjacent to the visitor centre.
BuswaysBUS
(%02-6652
2744; www.busways.com.au)
Runs at least five buses to/from Nambucca Heads and Bellingen on weekdays (both $11.90, 1¼ hours), and at least one on Saturday.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473
946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Coaches to/from Sydney ($66, 8½ hours, daily), Port Macquarie ($37, 2½ hours, two daily), Nambucca Heads ($13, 45 minutes, two daily), Byron Bay ($45, 3½ hours, four daily) and Brisbane ($81, seven hours, three daily).
New England CoachesBUS
(%02-6732
1051; www.newenglandcoaches.com.au)
At least two coaches per week to/from Dorrigo ($45, 1½ hours), Bellingen ($35, 50 minutes).
PremierBUS
(%13 34
10; www.premierms.com.au)
Daily coach to Sydney ($66, 8½ hours), Port Macquarie ($47, 2¼ hours), Nambucca Heads ($34, 40 minutes), Byron Bay ($50, five hours) and Brisbane ($59, 8½ hours).
Ryans Bus ServiceBUS
(%02-6652
3201; www.ryansbusservice.com.au)
Buses to/from Woolgoolga ($13, one hour, six on weekdays and two on Saturday) and Grafton ($21.80, two hours, two on weekdays).
Train
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Three trains head to/from Sydney ($67, nine hours), Kempsey ($13, 1¾ hours), Nambucca Heads ($5, 40 minutes) and Grafton ($11.30, 1¼ hours) daily, and one continues to Brisbane ($59, 5½ hours).
8Getting Around
Busways, Ryans and Sawtell (%02-6653
3344; www.sawtellcoaches.com.au)
run local bus routes; Sawtell has regular services to the
airport.
Coffs District
Taxis (%13 10
08; www.coffstaxis.com.au)
operates a 24-hour service.
Woolgoolga
Pop 4720
Two superb beaches lie about 20km north of Coffs. First up is surfing hotspot Emerald Beach with its winning southern left-hand reef break and appropriately named Look At Me Now headland. About 12km north Woolgoolga (locally known as Woopi) is famous for its surf-and-Sikh community. If you’re driving by on the highway you’re sure to notice the impressive Guru Nanak Temple, a Sikh gurdwara (place of worship). There is a twice-monthly Saturday Bollywood Bazaar here, while in September the town goes all out with the annual Curryfest (www.facebook.com/WoolgoolgaCurryfest) celebration.
4Sleeping
Woolgoolga Beach Caravan ParkCAMPGROUND
(%02-6648
4711; www.coffscoastholidayparks.com.au;
55 Beach St; camp
sites/cabins from $36/78; W)
Right on the beach; surprisingly quiet at night.
Solitary Islands LodgeB&B
(%02-6654
1335; www.solitaryislandslodge.com.au;
3 Arthur St; r
$160; W)
The three immaculate guest rooms in this modern hilltop house have impressive sea views. The charming hosts stock the rooms with ingredients for a continental breakfast.
Waterside CabinsCABIN
(%02-6654
1644; www.watersidecabins.com.au;
Hearnes Lake Rd; cabins from
$113; as)
These stylish two- and three-bedroom units are part of a large complex of cabin-style residences. The four rental cabins are in a leafy spot near the lake; there's a walkway to the beach.
5Eating
White SaltFISH & CHIPS
(%02-6654
8832; 70 Beach St; $10-18;
h11.30am-2pm
daily & 5-8pm Wed-Mon)
Fresh ingredients and a quality catch to match. Check out the salads, featuring Tahitian raw fish, or for something more old-school design your own box of battered whiting and chips.
Bluebottles BrasserieCAFE
(%02-6654
1962; www.bluebottlesbrasserie.com.au;
53 Beach St; mains
breakfast $12-17, lunch $14-23, dinner $24-30; h6.15am-4pm
Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 7am-3pm Sun)
Starting with strong, early-morning presurf coffees and stacks of corn fritters, the all-day breakfast menu rolls on to generous salads and afternoon cakes.
WORTH A TRIP
RED ROCK
The village of Red Rock (population 310) is set between a beautiful beach and a glorious fish-filled river inlet. It takes its name from the red-tinged rock stack at the headland. The local Gumbainggir people know it by a more sombre name: Blood Rock. In the 1880s a detachment of armed police slaughtered the inhabitants of an Aboriginal camp, chasing the survivors to the headland, where they were driven off. The Blood Rock Massacres are commemorated by a simple plaque, and the area is considered sacred.
The Yarrawarra Aboriginal
Cultural Centre (%02-6640
7100; www.yarrawarra.org;
170 Red Rock Rd, Corindi
Beach; h9am-4pm
Wed-Sun ) has an
interesting art gallery and a bush-tucker cafe, where you can try
kangaroo and lemon-myrtle damper. It also holds bush-medicine tours
and art classes; call ahead if you're interested in joining
one.
Accommodation (including some flash
permanently pitched tents) is available at Red
Rock caravan park (%02-6649
2730; www.redrock.org.au;
1 Lawson St; camp
sites/cabins from $23/105; W).
On weekdays Ryans has occasional buses to/from Woolgoolga ($11, 15 minutes) and Grafton ($20, 50 minutes).
8Getting There & Away
Ryans has infrequent buses to/from Coffs Harbour ($13, one hour), Red Rock ($11, 15 minutes) and Grafton ($21, 1½ hours). Coaches on the Pacific Hwy route stop here.
Sawtell
Pop 3451
The beach community of Sawtell is spiritually
closer to glamorous Noosa than to its inland neighbour, Coffs
Harbour, just 10 minutes away. Heritage-listed fig trees shade the
main street and a range of upmarket cafes and boutiques. It's also
the home of the Sawtell Chilli Festival
(www.sawtellchillifestival.com.au;
hJul).
4Sleeping
Sawtell Motor InnMOTEL
(%02-6658
9872; www.sawtellmotorinn.com.au;
57 Boronia St; r from
$150; 
paWs)
Just off the main street and a five-minute walk to the beach, this quiet and clean motel has bright, spacious units decked out in cane furniture. Some have kitchenettes and spa baths.
5Eating
Sea SaltFISH & CHIPS
(%02-6658
9199; www.seasaltsawtell.com.au;
29 First Ave; $8-12;
h11am-7.30pm)
Gourmet snapper burgers, fish tacos and prawn rolls as well as fabulous gelato.
Split EspressoCAFE
(%02-6658
3026; www.splitcafe.com.au;
3-4 First Ave; breakfast
mains $13-17, lunch mains $16; h7am-5pm)
Rolls out great coffee and rib-sticking brekkies such as plump hot cakes dripping with maple syrup, while doubling as a bike showroom. Staff will happily advise on local rides.
Hello SawtellMODERN AUSTRALIAN
(%0417 933
107; www.facebook.com/hellosawtell;
20 First Ave; share plates
$16, mains $26;
h6-10pm
Tue-Sun)
Lively crowds spill out into the passageway as they feast on smart, delicious shared plates at this impeccably styled restaurant. Book ahead.
8Getting There & Away
ASawtell Coaches (www.sawtellcoaches.com.au)run between Coffs Harbour and Sawtell.
WORTH A TRIP
SCOTTS HEAD
For a scenic 17km detour from the Pacific
Hwy, heading north towards Nambucca Heads, take Tourist Drive 14
towards Stuarts Point and drive through the eucalyptus forest to
Grassy Head. From here the road continues through
Yarriabini National Park (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/yarriabini-national-park)
to Scotts Head (population 820), a small, popular
beach settlement. While you're here, it's worth stopping at
Taverna Six (%02 6569
0000; www.tavernasix.com.au;
405 Grassy Head Rd; mains
breakfast $13-16, dinner $26-28; h6:30-9pm
Thurs-Sat, lunch from 11am Sun ), a cosy Greek eatery with wonderful food.
Continuing on, the road follows a stream lined by tall trees on its
way back to the highway.
Nambucca Heads
Pop 19,530
Nambucca Heads is languidly strewn over a dramatically curling headland interlaced with the estuaries of the glorious Nambucca River. It's a relatively quiet and unspoilt place, evoking sun-soaked holidays of the '70s and '80s, when a fishing rod and zinc cream was all you needed.
Nambucca (pronounced nam-buk-a) means ‘many bends', and the river valley was ruled by the Gumbainggir people until European timber cutters arrived in the 1840s. There are still strong Aboriginal communities in Nambucca Heads and up the valley in Bowraville.
1Sights
Of the numerous viewpoints, Captain Cook Lookout ( GOOGLE MAP ), set on a high bluff, is the place to ponder the swathe of beaches. A road here leads down to the tide pools of Shelly Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ). Going north, Shelly Beach blends into Beilbys Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) and then Main Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ), which is the only one that's patrolled.
oV-WallBREAKWATER
( GOOGLE MAP )
For decades residents and holidaymakers have decorated the rocks of Nambucca's breakwater with vivacious multicoloured artwork, and with notes to lovers, families and new-found friends. Visitors are encouraged to paint their own message, if they can find some space on the boulders.
4Sleeping
White Albatross Holiday ParkCAMPGROUND
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
6468; www.whitealbatross.com.au;
52 Wellington Dr; camp sites
from $41, cabins from $87-180; aWs#)
Located near the river mouth, this large holiday park is laid out around a sheltered lagoon. The cabins are kept fastidiously clean and have full kitchens. There is a jolly on-site tavern with a great deck.
Marcel TowersAPARTMENT
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
7041; www.marceltowers.com.au;
12-14 Wellington Dr; d from
$130; aiW#)
All units in this tidy but dated block of holiday apartments have views over the estuary. If the views lead to inspiration, the complex has row boats and kayaks for you to borrow.
Riverview Boutique HotelGUESTHOUSE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
6386; www.riverviewlodgenambucca.com.au;
4 Wellington Dr; s/d from
$139/179; pnaW)
Built in 1887 this former pub is today a wooden, two-storey charmer with eight stylish rooms (with fridges); some rooms have views.
5Eating
Bookshop CaféCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
5855; cnr Ridge & Bowra Sts; meals
$9-14; h8am-5pm; W)
The veranda tables here are the place in town for breakfast. As the day progresses, there are cakes, slices, sandwiches and salads to sample.
Lom TalayTHAI
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%02-6568
8877; 58 Ridge St; mains
$15; h5.30-9pm
Tue-Sat)
There's a great ambiance at this modest Thai restaurant. Locals and tourists dig into lime-scented curries loaded with veggies and hearty staples such as pad thai. Summer nights are busy, so book ahead. BYO.
Nambucca Boatshed CafeCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
6511; nambuccaboatshed.com.au;
Riverside Dr; mains
$12-18; h7.30am-4pm
Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun)
Right on the river's edge, the highlight of
this low-key veranda cafe is the sublime view. Work off a plentiful
burger lunch with a frolic in a kayak, on a paddleboard or in a
tinny hired from the tackle shop
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
6432; www.nambuccacbd.com.au/beachcomber.html;
Riverside Dr; h7am-5pm ) next door.
8Information
Nambucca Heads visitor information centreTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %02-6568
6954; www.nambuccatourism.com.au;
cnr Riverside Dr & Pacific
Hwy; h9am-5pm)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Long-distance buses stop at the visitor centre.
BuswaysBUS
(%02-6568
3012; www.busways.com.au)
Six buses to/from Bellingen ($9.70, 1¼ hours) and Coffs Harbour ($11.90, 1¼ hours) on weekdays, and one or two on Saturday.
GreyhoundBUS
(%1300 473
946; www.greyhound.com.au)
Two coaches daily to/from Sydney ($100, eight hours), Port Macquarie ($22, 1¾ hours), Coffs Harbour ($13, 45 minutes), Byron Bay ($60, 4½ hours) and Brisbane ($106, 8¼ hours).
PremierBUS
(%13 34
10; www.premierms.com.au)
Daily coach to/from Sydney ($63, eight hours), Port Macquarie ($38, 1¾ hours), Coffs Harbour ($34, 40 minutes), Byron Bay ($58, 5¾ hours) and Brisbane ($63, 9¼ hours).
Train
NSW TrainLinkTRAIN
(%13 22
32; www.nswtrainlink.info)
Three daily trains to/from Sydney ($66, eight hours), Wingham ($25, three hours), Kempsey ($8, one hour) and Coffs Harbour ($5, 40 minutes), and two to Brisbane ($62, 6¼ hours).
Dorrigo
Pop 1080
Dorrigo is a pretty little place arrayed around the T-junction of two wider-than-wide streets.
The town’s main attraction is the Dangar Falls, 1.2km north of town, which cascades over a series of rocky shelves before plummeting into a basin. You can swim here if you have a yen for glacial bathing.
4Sleeping
Heritage Hotel Motel DorrigoHOTEL
(%02-6657
2016; www.hotelmoteldorrigo.com.au;
cnr Cudgery & Hickory
Sts; r from $105; aW)
The charm of this pub’s exterior is not echoed in the bar, nor in the dining room. Upstairs, the renovated bedrooms are adequate, especially for the price. Motel units face the rear car park.
MossgroveB&B
(%02-6657
5388; www.mossgrove.com.au;
589 Old Coast Rd; r
$195)
Set on 2.5 hectares, 8km from Dorrigo, this lovely federation-era home has two upmarket rooms, a guest lounge and a bathroom, all tastefully renovated to suit the era. A continental breakfast is included.
5Eating & Drinking
Dorrigo WholefoodsCAFE
(%02-6657
1002; www.dorrigowholefoods.com.au;
28 Hickory St; mains
$12; h7.30am-3pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)
Head past the bulk legumes and make up a plate from a cabinet of salads, cakes and savory morsels like lobster pot pie and ricotta fritters. Staff whip up super juice combinations.
Thirty Three on HickoryEUROPEAN
(%02-6657
1882; www.thirtythreeonhickory.com.au;
33 Hickory St; mains
$17-23; h5-9pm
Wed-Sun)
This 1920s weatherboard cottage has stained-glass windows and a blossoming garden. The specialty is sourdough pizza, and there is also hearty bistro fare, served with white tablecloths, sparkling silverware and a cosy wood fire.
Red Dirt DistilleryDISTILLERY
(%02-6657
1373; www.reddirtdistillery.com.au;
51-53 Hickory St; h10am-4pm
Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)
Sample the creative range of vodkas and liqueur made from local fruits and Dorrigo red-dirt potatoes.
8Information
Dorrigo Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%02-6657
2486; www.dorrigo.com; 36 Hickory
St; h10am-3pm)
8Getting There & Away
Three New England Coaches per week head to Coffs Harbour ($45, 1½ hours)