Karnataka Coast
Mangaluru (Mangalore)
%0824 /
Pop 492,500
Alternating between relaxed coastal town and hectic nightmare, Mangaluru (more commonly known as Mangalore) has a Jekyll and Hyde thing going, but it’s a useful gateway for the Konkan coast and inland Kodagu region. While there’s not a lot to do here, it has an appealing off-the-beaten-path feel, and the spicy seafood dishes are sensational.
Mangaluru sits at the estuaries of the picturesque Netravathi and Gurupur Rivers on the Arabian Sea and has been a major port on international trade routes since the 6th century.

Mangaluru (Mangalore)
8Information
1Sights
St Aloysius College ChapelCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Lighthouse
Hill; h9am-6pm)
Catholicism’s roots in Mangaluru date back to the arrival of the Portuguese in the early 1500s. One impressive legacy is the 1880 Sistine Chapel–like St Aloysius chapel, with its walls and ceilings painted with brilliant frescoes. No photography is permitted.
Sultan’s BatteryFORT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Sultan
Battery Rd; h6am-6pm)
The only remnant of Tipu Sultan’s fort is this small lookout with views over scenic backwaters. It’s 4km from the city centre on the headland of the old port.
Ullal BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
This stretch of golden sand is a good destination to escape the city heat. It’s 12km south of Mangaluru, across the Netravathi estuary. An Uber/autorickshaw is ₹200 one way, or take bus 44A or 44C (₹10) from the City bus stand.
WORTH A TRIP
SURFING SWAMIS
Surfing AshramSURFING
(Mantra Surf
Club;
GOOGLE MAP ; %9663141146; www.surfingindia.net;
6-64 Kolachikambla,
Mulki; board hire/lessons per day
₹700/2200)
While there has always been a spiritual bond between surfer and Mother ocean, the Surfing Ashram at Mulki, 30km north of Mangaluru, takes things to a whole new plane. At this Hare Krishna ashram, which was established by its American guru who's been surfing since 1963, devotees follow a daily ritual of puja (prayers), chanting, meditation and vegetarian diet in between catching barrels.
There’s surf year-round, but the best waves are May to June and September to October. The swamis can also assist with information on surfing across India. Board hire is ₹700 per day and lessons are ₹2200 per day.
If there are no waves they have SUP boards for the river or ocean, sea kayaks and a jet ski for wakeboarding. Snorkelling trips to offshore islands are also possible.
The centre has a homely beachhouse feel, and rates (per person/couple including full board ₹2800/3900).
All are welcome to visit, but it’s important to be aware that it’s strictly a place of worship and there are guidelines to abide by, including abstinence from meat, alcohol, tobacco and sex during your stay.
4Sleeping
Hotel RoopaHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0824-2421272; www.roopahotel.com;
Balmatta Rd; r with
fan/AC from ₹450/1300;
a
W)
One of the city’s best-value hotels, close to the KSRTC bus stand, and combines good prices with professional management and decent, very affordable rooms. It has an excellent basement restaurant and bar.
Hotel ManoramaHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-2440306; KS Rao
Rd; s/d from ₹620/640, with AC from
₹1120;
a)
Offering fine value with clean, good-value rooms and a lobby that provides a memorable first impression with its display of Hindu statues and artefacts. It's close to the City Center mall for shopping and a food court.
Adarsh HotelHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0824-2440878; Market
Rd; s/d ₹340/500)
Enjoying a good location in the thick of things, this old-school cheapie has very low rates and fairly well-maintained rooms.
Gateway HotelHOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-6660420; www.tajhotels.com; Old Port
Rd; s/d incl breakfast from
₹5840/6260;
a
i
W
s)
Owned by the Taj group, this is a well-run hotel where the spacious rooms have plasma TVs and large beds laden with pillows, though bathrooms are somewhat dated. The lovely 20m swimming pool is surrounded by lawn and loungers, and there's a small spa and a fine restaurant.
5Eating
Lalith Bar & RestaurantSEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Balmatta
Rd; mains ₹150-400; h11.30am-3.30pm &
6.30-11.30pm;
a)
Specialising in authentic Mangalorean seafood delights such as spicy masala fish fry smothered in saucy red coconut curry, or scrumptious deep-fried prawn rava fry, this scruffy restaurant is always popular. It all goes beautifully with a cold beer from its fully stocked bar.
KadalSOUTH INDIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; www.kadalrestaurant.in;
Nalapad Residency, Lighthouse Hill
Rd; mains ₹150-230; h11am-3.30pm
& 6.30-11pm;
W)
This high-rise restaurant affords wonderful city views and elegant and warmly lit interiors. Try the spicy chicken uruval (a coconut coastal curry) or the yummy prawn ghee roast. Prices are moderate for the quality and experience.
GajaleeSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0824-2221900; www.gajalee.com; Circuit
House, Kadri Hills;
mains ₹160-1280;
h10am-11pm)
In a town famous for seafood, locals often cite this as the best. Their fish curries are superb, prepared in a spicy coconut sauce, while the clam koshimbir is cooked in a rich green masala.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oSpindriftMICROBREWERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
www.facebook.com/SpindriftMangalore;
5th Fl, Bharath Mall,
Lalbagh; h11am-11pm;
W)
The first microbrewery in town is a big space with indoor and outdoor seating and the acoustic artists, indie bands and DJs create quite a vibe on weekend nights. Beers on tap (from ₹230) include a wheat beer, pilsner and IPA and there's good finger food too.
#45CAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
Trinity Commercial Complex, Attavara
Rd; h10.30am-10.30pm;
W)
Very popular with students, this hip little cafe does a wide range of huge milkshakes (including Ferrero Rocher and Nutella flavours), fresh juices, good coffees, wraps, burgers and breakfasts.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Mangaluru
International Airport (
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-2254252; www.mangaloreairport.com)
is about 15km northeast of town. There are daily flights to Mumbai,
Delhi, Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Chennai and international
connections to Abu Dhabi, Doha and Dubai.
Airlines include:
Air India
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-2451046; Hathill
Rd;
h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat)
Jet Airways
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-2441181; Ram Bhavan
Complex, KS Rao Rd;
h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat)
Bus
The KSRTC bus
stand (
GOOGLE MAP ; %0824-2211243; Bejai Main
Rd) is 3km from the city
centre. Deluxe buses depart half-hourly to Bengaluru (₹406 to ₹815,
seven to nine hours) via Mysuru (₹245 to ₹505, five to six
hours).
ADharmasthala ₹49-82, one to two hours, 8.05am and 2.20pm daily
AErnakulam ₹845, nine hours, 9pm
AGokarna ₹234, 5½ hours, 12.45pm daily
AHassan ₹163 to ₹355, three to five hours, 12 daily
AMadikeri ₹135 to ₹305, 3½ to four hours, 11 daily
APanaji ₹359 to ₹698, 8-9½ hours, one to three daily
For Udupi (₹58, 1½ hours) head to the City bus stand (State Bank stand; GOOGLE MAP ).
Train
The main train station, Mangaluru Central, is south of the city centre.
Trains from Mangaluru (Mangalore)
Destination | Train No & Name | Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Departures |
---|---|---|---|---|
Bengaluru | 16524 Bangalore Exp | sleeper/2AC 280/1080 | 11½ | 8.55pm |
Chennai | 12686 Chennai Exp | sleeper/2AC 460/1725 | 15½ | 4.20pm |
Gokarna | 16523 Karwar Exp | sleeper/2AC 190/6900 | 5½ | 7.55am |
Gokarna | 12620 Matsyaganda Exp | sleeper/2AC 235/825 | 4 | 2.35pm |
Thiruvananthapuram | 16630 Malabar Exp | sleeper/2AC 340/1320 | 15 | 6.15pm |
8Getting Around
To get to the airport, take buses 47B or 47C from the City bus stand. An Uber is around ₹350.
Dharmasthala
%08256
/ Pop 10,340
Inland from Mangaluru are a string of Jain
temple towns, such as Venur, Mudabidri and Karkal. The most
interesting among them is Dharmasthala village, 75km east of
Mangaluru by the Netravathi River. Tens of thousands of pilgrims
pass through this tiny settlement every day. During holidays and
major festivals, such as the five-day pilgrim festival of
Lakshadeepotsava (hNov),
the footfall can go up tenfold.
1Sights
Manjunatha TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; h6.30am-2.30pm
& 5-8.45pm)
This striking Kerala-style temple has a pyramidal roof of gold-plated copper plates and its wood carvings have recently been meticulously renovated. Three elephants trunk out blessings to pilgrims outside the Manjunatha Temple; men have to enter bare-chested, with legs covered. You can fast-track the queue if you pay ₹200.
Car MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
₹5; h8.30am-1pm
& 2-7pm)
Don’t forget to visit the fantastic Car Museum, home to 48 vintage autos, including a 1903 Renault and 1920s Studebaker President used by Mahatma Gandhi, plus classic Mercedes Benz, Chevrolet and Rolls-Royce models. No photos are allowed.
RANI ABBAKKA: THE WARRIOR QUEEN
The legendary exploits of Rani Abbakka, one of India’s first freedom fighters – who happened to be a female – is one that gets surprisingly little attention outside the Mangaluru region. An Indian Joan of Arc, her inspiring story is just waiting to be picked up by a Bollywood/Hollywood screenwriter.
As the Portuguese consolidated power along India’s western coastline in the 16th century, seizing towns across Goa and down to Mangalore, their attempts to take Ullal proved more of a challenge. This was thanks to its ‘fearless queen’, who proved to be a major thorn in their grand plans to control the lucrative spice trade. Her efforts to continually repel their advances is the stuff of local legend.
Well trained in the art of war, both in strategy and combat, Rani Abbakka knew how to brandish a sword. And while she was eventually defeated, this wasn’t from a loss on the battlefield, but by her treacherous ex-husband, who conspired against her in leaking intelligence to the enemy.
Her efforts to rally her people to defeat the powerful Portuguese is not forgotten by locals: Rani Abbakka is immortalised in a bronze statue on horseback at the roundabout on the road to Ullal beach, and has an annual festival dedicated to her.
The shore temple that looks over the beautiful Someshwara beach a few kilometres south from Ullal was the former site of her fort, but only sections of its wall remains intact.
4Sleeping
There are only very simple sleeping options.
Contact the temple office (%0825-6277121; www.shridharmasthala.org)
for help with lodging.
Rajathadri Guest HouseLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.shridharmasthala.org/online-accommodation; r with fan/AC ₹500/1000)
About 700m north of the main temple, this clean guesthouse is used by pilgrims and can be booked online. Rooms sleep up to three.
5Eating
Manjunatha Temple KitchenINDIAN
(
GOOGLE MAP ; h11.30am-2.15pm & 7.30-10pm)
F
Offers simple free meals, attached to a hall that can seat up to 3000. Very efficiently managed.
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to Dharmasthala from Mangaluru (₹75, 2½ hours).
Udupi
%0820 /
Pop 177,800
Just inland from the coast, Udupi is a holy town home to an ancient Hindu temple and several monasteries.
1Sights
Krishna TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; www.udupisrikrishnamatha.org;
Car St; h3.30am-10pm)
Udupi is home to the atmospheric, 13th-century Krishna Temple, which draws thousands of Hindu pilgrims through the year. Surrounded by eight maths (monasteries), it’s a hive of activity, with musicians playing at the entrance, elephants on hand for puja (prayer rituals) and pilgrims constantly coming and going. Non-Hindus are welcome inside the temple; men must enter bare-chested. Elaborate rituals are also performed in the temple during the Udupi Paryaya festival.
4Sleeping
Shri Vidyasamuda ChoultryHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0820-2520820; Car
St; r ₹150-350)
There are several pilgrim hotels near the temple, but this simple offering is the best with views looking over the ghat.
Hotel Sriram ResidencyHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0820-2530761; www.hotelsriramresidency.in;
Head Post Office Rd; r with
fan/AC from ₹1035/1868;
a
W)
A well-run place with good choice of rooms, some on the upper floors overlooking the Krishna temple. There are two bars and a good seafood restaurant here.
5Eating
Udupi is famed for its vegetarian food, and recognised across India for its sumptuous thali and as the birthplace of the humble dosa.
WoodlandsINDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Dr UR Rao Complex; dosas from
₹60, meals from ₹100;
h8am-3.15pm
& 5.30-10.30pm)
Woodlands is regarded as the best vegetarian place in town and has an AC dining room where you can escape the heat. It's a short walk south of Krishna Temple.
Mitra SamajaINDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Car St; meals from
₹80; h8am-9pm)
A famous old establishment that serves delicious snacks, dosas and coffee. Can get crowded. It's just south of the Krishna Temple.
8Getting There & Away
Udupi is 58km north of Mangaluru along the coast; very regular buses ply the route (₹40 to ₹62, 1½ hours). There's a daily bus to Gokarna (₹180, four hours) at 2pm and many services (mostly at night) to Bengaluru (₹434 to ₹880, eight to 10 hours). Regular buses head to Malpe (₹9, 30 minutes).
FORMULA BUFFALO
Call it an indigenous take on the Grand Prix, Kambla, or traditional buffalo racing, is a hugely popular pastime among villagers along the southern Karnataka coast. Popularised in the early 20th century and born out of local farmers habitually racing their buffaloes home after a day in the fields, the races have now hit the big time. Thousands of spectators attend each edition, and racing buffaloes are pampered and prepared like thoroughbreds.
Kambla events are held between November and March, usually on weekends. Parallel tracks are laid out in a paddy field, along which buffaloes hurtle towards the finish line. In most cases the man rides on a board fixed to a ploughshare, literally surfing his way down the track behind the beasts. The faster creatures can cover the 120m-odd distance through water and mud in around 14 seconds!
Malpe
%0820 /
Pop 1980
A laid-back fishing harbour on the west coast 4km from Udupi, Malpe has nice beaches ideal for flopping about in the surf (though on weekends and holidays jet skis, banana boats and quad bikes taint the scene).
1Sights & Activities
St Mary's IslandISLAND
( GOOGLE MAP )
This tiny island off Malpe is where Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama supposedly landed in 1498, and has curious hexagonal basalt formations that jut out of the sand. No boats run here between June and mid-October. From Malpe pier you can take a ferry (₹100 return, 45 minutes, departing at 11am or when demand is sufficient) or charter a private boat from Malpe Beach here.
4Sleeping & Eating
Paradise Isle Beach ResortHOTEL$$
(%0820-2538777; www.theparadiseisle.com;
r ₹3000-5500;
a
i
W
s)
This large concrete hotel is right on the
sands and has comfortable rooms, many with sea views. They offer a
lot of ayurvedic packages, which include massages and specialised
diet programs, water sports such as banana boat rides and jet
skiing, and can organise boats
(per couple ₹4000; hOct-Mar) in the backwaters of Hoode nearby.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Udupi are ₹9, and an autorickshaw ₹60.
Jog Falls
%08186
1Sights
Jog FallsWATERFALL
(₹5)
The second-highest waterfalls in India, Jog Falls only come to life during the monsoon. The tallest of the four falls is the Raja, which drops 293m. For a good view of the falls, bypass the area close to the bus stand and hike to the foot of the falls down a 1200-plus step path. Watch out for leeches during the wet season.
4Sleeping
Hotel Mayura Gerusoppa JogfallsHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08186-244732; www.kstdc.co/hotels/hotel-mayura-gerusoppa-jogfalls;
dm ₹300, d with fan/AC incl breakfast
from ₹1950/2400;
a
W)
Located near Jog Falls' car park, this government-run hotel has enormous rooms that are in decent shape, all with spectacular views, though they can be a tad musty off-season. The dorm has 10 beds and is more geared to local school groups. Note prices rise weekends and wi-fi is confined to the lobby area only.
8Getting There & Away
Most people hire a taxi; a return trip from Gokarna costs ₹2200. Otherwise, you can get a string of buses which head via Kumta and turn off at Honavar (₹68), or Shivamogga (Shimoga) if coming via Bengaluru (₹470, nine hours).
Gokarna
%08386
/ Pop 28,880
A regular nominee among travellers’ favourite beaches in India, Gokarna attracts a crowd for a low-key, chilled-out beach holiday and not for full-scale parties. Most accommodation is in thatched bamboo huts along its several stretches of blissful coast.
In fact there are two Gokarnas; adjacent to the beaches is the sacred Hindu pilgrim town of Gokarna, full of ancient temples that come to life during important festivals such as Shivaratri and Ganesh Chaturthi. While its lively bazaar is an interesting place to visit, most foreign tourists don’t hang around overnight, instead making a beeline straight to the adjoining beaches.
1Sights
The best beaches are south of Gokarna town: first Kudle Beach (5km by road from Gokarna), then Om Beach (6.5km by road). Well hidden south of Om Beach lie the small sandy coves of Half Moon Bay and Paradise Beach, without road access. A lovely coastal trail links all the beaches, but, as there have been (very occasional) reports of muggings, it's best not to walk it alone.
oOm
BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
One of Karnataka's best beaches, Gokarna’s most famous stretch of sand twists and turns over several kilometres in a form that resembles the outline of an Om symbol. It comprises several gorgeous coves, with wide stretches interspersed with smaller patches of sand, perfect for sunbathing and swimming. There's fine swimming most of the season when the sea is not choppy, though signs officially ban swimming (local tourists have drowned here in rough seas).
Kudle BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
This lovely wide cove, backed by wooded headlands, offers plenty of room to stretch out on along its attractive sands. Restaurants, guesthouses and yoga camps are dotted around the rear of the beach, but they're well spaced and development remains peaceful and attractive.
Half Moon BayBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Small, attractive cove with a lovely sweep of powdery sand and basic hut accommodation. There's no road, only a path to this beach. It's about a 30-minute hike from Om Beach (itself 5km from Gokarna town), or boats run here on demand from Gokarna town.
Paradise BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Paradise Beach is a mix of sand and rocks, and a haven for the long-term ‘turn-on-tune-in-drop-out’ crowd. Unfortunately, the government routinely destroys all the huts out this way, leaving it in a ramshackle state – hence it’s BYO everything here. If you've a hammock or tent it's a great choice for total isolation.
oMahaganapati
TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Car
St; h6am-8.30pm)
F
Deeply atmospheric temple complex, encircled by lanes, but peaceful inside. Here there's a (rare) stone statue of an upright, standing Ganesh, said to be over 1500 years old, who is depicted with a flat head – said to mark the spot where the demon Ravana struck him. This is the second-most holy site in Gokarna and it's customary for pilgrims to visit here first before heading to the neighbouring Mahabaleshwara Temple. Foreigners are not allowed inside the inner sanctum.
oMahabaleshwara
TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Car
St; h6am-8.30pm)
F
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this is a profoundly spiritual temple, built of granite by Mayurasharma of the Kadamba dynasty and said to date back to the 4th century. Hindus believe it brings blessings to pilgrims who even glimpse it, and rituals are performed for the deceased. A gopura (gateway tower) dominates the complex, while inside a stone nandi faces the inner chamber, home to Shiva's lingam. Foreigners may enter the complex but not the inner sanctum.
Koorti TeerthaHINDU SITE
( GOOGLE MAP )
A large temple tank where locals, pilgrims and immaculately dressed Brahmins perform their ablutions.
Gokarna BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Gokarna’s main town beach isn’t clean and is not good for casual bathing. The main section is popular with domestic tourists but if you walk away from here to the north you’ll find a long stretch of sand that seems to go forever. There's some surf here in season.

2Activities
Cocopelli Surf SchoolSURFING
(%8105764969; www.cocopelli.org; Gokarna
Beach; lesson per person ₹2000, board rental per 2hr
₹750;
hOct-May)
Offers lessons by internationally certified instructors and rents boards.
zFestivals & Events
oShivaratriRELIGIOUS
(hFeb/Mar)
A chariot bearing a statue of Lord Shiva and his lingam is pulled through the streets by hundreds of pilgrims to conclude this nine-day festival.
GOKARNA'S TEMPLES
This is a deeply holy town and foreigners should be respectful in and around its many temples: do not try to enter their inner sanctums, which are reserved for Hindus only. It's customary for pilgrims to bathe in the sea and fast, and many shave their heads, before entering Gokarna's holy places.
4Sleeping & Eating
For most foreigners Gokarna means sleeping right on the beach in a simple shack. However, there are a growing number of more upmarket lodges and hotels, so if you don't want to rough it you don't have to. Note that most places close from November to March.
Om Beach
oNirvana
CaféGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9742466481; Om
Beach; cottage ₹700-900;
W)
These attractive cottages, towards the eastern end of the beach, are some of Om's best, all with front porches that face a slim central garden. On the premises you'll find a good beachfront restaurant, laundry and travel agency.
Namaste CaféGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08386-257141; www.namastegokarna.com;
Om Beach; r with
fan/AC from ₹1080/1720;
a
W)
At the beginning of Om, this long-standing guesthouse is the most upmarket place on the beach, with well-constructed accommodation in leafy gardens and the comforts of AC and wi-fi and hot water.
Dolphin ShantiGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9740930133; Om
Beach; r from ₹300)
Rooms are basic yet appealing at this simple guesthouse at the far eastern end of Om Beach. It's perched upon the rocks with fantastic ocean views, and lives up to its name with dolphins often spotted.
SanghamBUNGALOW$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%9448101099; Om
Beach; r ₹650, without bathroom ₹400)
The no-frills concrete bungalows at the back of this beachfront restaurant are set in a garden area. Rooms are basic and a bit soulless, with OK mattresses and mossie nets.
oSwaSwaraHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%08386-257132; www.swaswara.com; Om
Beach; s/d 5 nights from €1820/2450;
a
i
W
s)
'Journeying into the self' is the mantra at SwaSwara and you certainly have the infrastructure in place to achieve that here, as this is one of South India’s finest retreats. Yoga, ayurveda, treatments, a meditation dome and elegant private villas with open-air showers and lovely sitting areas await. No short stays are possible.
Sunset PointINDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Om Beach; mains
₹120-200; h7.30am-10pm)
Family-run place at the eastern end of Om Beach with a great perch overlooking the waves. There's a long menu that takes in breakfasts, sandwiches, Indian and Chinese dishes; grilled kingfish is around ₹180.
Om Shree GaneshMULTICUISINE, INDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Om
Beach; meals ₹80-170; h8am-3pm &
6-10.30pm)
Across a stream on Om Beach, this atmospheric double-storey restaurant does tasty dishes such as tandoori prawns, mushroom tikka and momos (Tibetan dumplings).
Namaste CafeMULTICUISINE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
mains ₹120-230; h8.30am-4pm
& 6-11pm)
The only 'proper' restaurant on Om Beach, this attractive double-deck affair has dreamy, romantic sea views, cold beer and good seafood, pasta and Indian dishes.
Kudle Beach
Strawberry FarmhouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %7829367584; Kudle
Beach; r ₹700-1000;
a)
A good guesthouse at the northern section of Kudle with spacious cottages (some with AC), all with verandahs and a prime position looking out to the water.
Uma GardenGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%9916720728; www.facebook.com/uma.gardenkudlebeach;
Kudle Beach; r without
bathroom ₹350)
Tucked around the corner at the beginning of Kudle, this bucolic guesthouse has a laid-back owner and sea-facing vegetarian restaurant.
Ganga CafeGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%8095766058; Kudle
Beach; r from ₹350;
W)
At the north end of Kudle, these concrete rooms are above a popular restaurant and have partial sea views from a shared balcony. Bathrooms are shared.
oArya Ayurvedic
Panchakarma CentreSPA HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9611062468; www.ayurvedainindien.com;
Kudle Beach; r from
₹1800;
a
W)
Some of the best rooms in Gokarna, the simple
yet elegant, accommodation on Kudle Beach has been carefully
planned and designed using quality furnishings. Priority is given
to those booking ayurvedic packages and there's a fine in-house
cafe (
GOOGLE MAP ; www.ayurvedainindien.com;
Kudle Beach; mains
₹130-200; h8am-10pm;
W).
Namaste Yoga FarmBUNGALOW$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08386-257454; www.spiritualland.com;
Kudle Beach; incl
breakfast & yoga r €50-94, cottage €80-104;
W)
On the hillside above the northern end of Kudle this popular place is owned by an excellent, patient German yoga instructor. The accommodation, in a patch of jungle, is pretty functional and does not have a 'wow' factor but the yoga (two daily classes are included) and breakfast (cooked to order) are exceptional and there's a very welcoming vibe.
Half Moon Beach
Half Moon Garden CafeBUNGALOW$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9743615820; Half Moon
Beach; hut from ₹300)
S
A throwback to the hippie days, this hideaway has a blissful beach and pretty decent, well-kept huts in a coconut grove. It runs on solar power.
Gokarna Town
Shree Shakti HotelHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9036043088; chidushakti@gmail.com;
Gokarna Beach Rd; s/d
₹400/600)
On Gokarna’s main strip, this friendly hotel is excellent value with immaculate lime-green rooms. There's a popular restaurant downstairs.
Greenland GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9019651420; Gokarna
Town; r from ₹300;
W)
Hidden down a jungle path on the edge of town, this mellow family-run guesthouse has clean rooms in vibrant colours and a lovely verdant garden to enjoy. There's a daily charge (₹200) for wi-fi.
oPremaINDIAN, MULTICUISINE$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Gokarna Beach Rd; meals
₹80-150; h8am-10pm)
Always packed, this humble-looking place has a prime location just before the beach. Offers Western food but it's best to stick to the South Indian classics. They accept cards for payments.
Shree ShaktiICE CREAM, INDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Gokarna Beach Rd; meals from
₹110; h8am-10pm;
W)
Attractive, casual cafe-restaurant in Gokarna town that's rightly renowned for its ice cream, juices and flavoursome local food.
7Shopping
Shree Radhakrishna BookstoreBOOKS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Car St,
Gokarna Town; h10am-6pm)
Secondhand novels, postcards and maps.
8Information
8Getting There & Away
Trains from Mumbai or Goa and private buses from Hampi/Hospet may get you into Gokarna at ungodly hours: it's worth notifying your guesthouse.
Bus
Local and private buses depart daily to Bengaluru (₹505 to ₹714, 12 hours) and Mysuru (from ₹570, 12 hours), as well as Mangaluru (from ₹255, 6½ hours) and Hubballi (₹195, four hours).
For Hampi, Paulo Travels (
GOOGLE MAP ;
%08394-225867; www.paulobus.com) is a popular choice which heads via
Hosapete (Hospet; fan/AC ₹1500/1550, seven hours). Note if you’re
coming from Hampi, you’ll be dropped at Ankola from where there’s a
free transfer for the 26km journey to Gokarna.
There’s also regular buses to Panaji (₹120, three hours) and Mumbai (₹754 to ₹980, 12 hours).
Train
Many express trains stop at Gokarna Rd station, 9km from town. There are other options from Ankola, 26km away. Hotels and travel agencies in Gokarna can book tickets.
The 3am 12619 Matsyagandha Express goes to Mangaluru (sleeper/2AC ₹220/740, 4½ hours); the return train leaves Gokarna Rd at 6.40pm for Madgaon in Goa (sleeper/2AC ₹170/740, two hours) and Mumbai (sleeper/2AC, ₹455/1700, 12 hours).
Autorickshaws charge ₹220 to go to Gokarna Rd station (or ₹450 to Ankola); a bus from Gokarna town charges ₹30 and leaves every 30 minutes.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MURUDESHWAR
A worthwhile stopover for those taking
the coastal route from Gokarna to Mangaluru, Murudeshwar is a
beachside pilgrimage town. It’s most notable for its colossal
seashore statue of Lord Shiva
(
GOOGLE MAP ), which sits directly on the shore
overlooking the Arabian Sea. For the best views, take the lift 18
storeys to the top of the skyscraper-like Shri
Murudeshwar Temple (
GOOGLE MAP ; lift
₹10; hlift
7.45am-12.30pm & 3.15-6.45pm).
Murudeshwar is 3km off the main highway,
accessed by train or bus passing up and down the coast. If you'd
like to stay overnight, beachfront homestay Mavalli Beach Heritage Home (
GOOGLE MAP ; %9901767993; http://mavallibeachheritage.com;
r ₹4200;
a
W) has
four stylish rooms, a warm ambience and great home-cooked food,
though the approach road is in poor shape.
Central Karnataka
Hampi
%08394
/ Pop 3500
The magnificent ruins of Hampi dot an unearthly landscape that has captivated travellers for centuries. Heaps of giant boulders perch precariously over kilometres of undulating terrain, their rusty hues offset by jade-green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. While it’s possible to see this World Heritage Site in a day or two, plan on lingering for a while.
The main travellers’ ghetto has traditionally been Hampi Bazaar, a village crammed with budget lodges, shops and restaurants, and towered over by the majestic Virupaksha Temple. Tranquil Virupapur Gaddi across the river has become a new popular hang-out. However, recent demolitions in both areas have seen businesses closed, with the future of Hampi bitterly contested between locals and authorities.
History
Hampi and its neighbouring areas find mention in the Hindu epic Ramayana as Kishkinda, the realm of the monkey gods. In 1336 Telugu prince Harihararaya chose Hampi as the site for his new capital Vijayanagar, which – over the next couple of centuries – grew into one of the largest Hindu empires in Indian history. By the 16th century it was a thriving metropolis of about 500,000 people, its busy bazaars dabbling in international commerce, brimming with precious stones and merchants from faraway lands. All this, however, ended in a stroke in 1565, when a confederacy of Deccan sultanates razed Vijayanagar to the ground, striking it a death blow from which it never recovered.

Hampi & Anegundi
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
1Sights
Set over 36 sq km, there are some 3700 monuments to explore in Hampi, and it would take months if you were to do it justice. The ruins are divided into two main areas: the Sacred Centre, around Hampi Bazaar with its temples, and the Royal Centre, towards Kamalapuram, where the Vijayanagara royalty lived and governed.
Sacred Centre
oVirupaksha
TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; ₹2,
camera/video ₹50/500;
hdawn-dusk)
The focal point of Hampi Bazaar is the Virupaksha Temple, one of the city’s oldest structures, and Hampi’s only remaining working temple. The main gopuram, almost 50m high, was built in 1442, with a smaller one added in 1510. The main shrine is dedicated to Virupaksha, an incarnation of Shiva.
An elephant called Lakshmi blesses devotees as they enter in exchange for donations; it doesn't seem hugely rewarding for the pachyderm, but she gets time off for a morning bath down by the river ghats
Hemakuta HillHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
To the south, overlooking Virupaksha Temple, Hemakuta Hill has a scattering of early ruins, including monolithic sculptures of Narasimha (Vishnu in his man-lion incarnation) and Ganesh. It’s worth the short walk up for the view.
Nandi StatueSTATUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At the east end of Hampi Bazaar is a Nandi
statue, around which stand some of the colonnaded blocks of the
ancient marketplace. This is the main location for Vijaya Utsav (Hampi
Festival; hJan),
the Hampi arts festival.
oVittala
TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner/child under 15
₹30/500/free; h8.30am-5.30pm)
The undisputed highlight of the Hampi ruins, the 16th-century Vittala Temple stands amid the boulders 2km from Hampi Bazaar. Work possibly started on the temple during the reign of Krishnadevaraya (r 1509–29). It was never finished or consecrated, yet the temple’s incredible sculptural work remains the pinnacle of Vijayanagar art.
The ornate stone chariot that stands in the courtyard is the temple’s showpiece and represents Vishnu’s vehicle with an image of Garuda within. Its wheels were once capable of turning.
The outer ‘musical’ pillars reverberate when tapped. They were supposedly designed to replicate 81 different Indian instruments, but authorities have placed them out of tourists’ bounds for fear of further damage, so no more do-re-mi.
As well as the main temple, whose sanctum was illuminated using a design of reflective waters, you’ll find the marriage hall and prayer hall, the structures to the left and right upon entry, respectively.
Lakshimi NarasmihaHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
An interesting stop-off along the road to the Virupaksha Temple is the 6.7m monolithic statue of the bulging-eyed Lakshimi Narasmiha in a cross-legged lotus position and topped by a hood of seven snakes.
Krishna TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Built in 1513, the Krishna Temple is fronted by an apsara and 10 incarnations of Vishnu. It’s on the road to the Virupaksha Temple near Lakshimi Narasmiha.
Sule BazaarHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Halfway along the path from Hampi Bazaar to Vittala Temple, a track to the right leads over the rocks to deserted Sule Bazaar, one of ancient Hampi’s principal centres of commerce and reputedly its red-light district. At the southern end of this area is the beautiful 16th-century Achyutaraya Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).
HAMPI RUINS TICKET
The ₹500 ticket for Vittala Temple entitles you to same-day admission into most of the paid sites across the ruins (including around the Royal Centre and the Archaeological Museum), so don’t lose your ticket.
Royal Centre & Around
While it can be accessed by a 2km foot trail from the Achyutaraya Temple, the Royal Centre is best reached via the Hampi–Kamalapuram road. A number of Hampi’s major sites stand here.
Mahanavami-diibaRUINS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The Mahanavami-diiba is a 12m-high three-tiered platform with intricate carvings and panoramic vistas of the walled complex of ruined temples, stepped tanks and the King’s audience hall. The platform was used as a royal viewing area for the Dasara festivities, religious ceremonies and processions.
Zenana EnclosureRUINS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹30/500; h8.30am-5.30pm)
Northeast of the Royal Centre within the
walled ladies’ quarters is the Zenana Enclosure. Its peaceful
grounds and manicured lawns feel like an oasis amid the arid
surrounds. Here are the Lotus Mahal (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ) and Elephant Stables (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-5.30pm).
Hazarama TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Features exquisite carvings that depict scenes from the Ramayana, and polished black granite pillars.
Queen’s BathRUINS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-5.30pm)
South of the Royal Centre you’ll find various temples and elaborate waterworks, including the Queen’s Bath, deceptively plain on the outside but amazing within, with its Indo-Islamic architecture.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Kamalapuram; h10am-5pm
Sat-Thu)
Boasts a fine collection of sculptures from local ruins, plus neolithic tools, 16th-century weaponry and a large floor model of the Vijayanagar ruins. There's a fine photographic record of the site dating back to 1856.
2Activities
Hampi WaterfallsWATERFALL
( GOOGLE MAP )
About a 2km walk west of Hampi Bazaar, past shady banana plantations, you can scramble over the boulders to reach the attractive Hampi ‘waterfalls’, a series of small whirlpools among the rocks amid superb scenery.
Bouldering
Hampi is the undisputed bouldering capital of India. The entire landscape is a climber’s adventure playground made of granite crags and boulders, some bearing the marks of ancient stonemasons. Golden Boulders (2013) by Gerald Krug and Christiane Hupe has a tonne of info on bouldering in Hampi.
Tom & JerryCLIMBING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9482746697,
8277792588; www.facebook.com/TomJerry-Climbing-Shop;
Virupapur Gaddi; 2½hr class
₹500)
Two local lads who are doing great work in catering to climbers’ needs, providing quality mats, shoes and local knowledge and running climbing classes.
ThimmaclimbCLIMBING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%8762776498; www.thimmaclimb.wix.com/hampi-bouldering;
Shiva Guesthouse, Virupapur
Gaddi; class from ₹400)
A small professional operation run by local pro Thimma, who guides, runs lessons and stocks professional equipment for hire and sale. He also runs three-day trips (₹5000) to Badami for sandstone climbing.
Birdwatching
Get in touch with Kishkinda Trust (TKT;
%08533-267777; http://tktkishkinda.org)
in Anegundi for info on birdwatching in the area, which has over
230 species, including the greater flamingo. The Birds
of Hampi (2014) by Samad Kottur is the definitive guide.
zFestivals & Events
Virupaksha Car FestivalRELIGIOUS
(hMar/Apr)
The Virupaksha Car Festival is a big event, with a colourful procession characterised by a giant wooden chariot (the temple car from Virupaksha Temple) being pulled along the main strip of Hampi Bazaar.
4Sleeping
Most guesthouses are cosy family-run digs, perfect for the budget traveller. More upmarket places are located further from the centre.

Hampi Bazaar
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
7Shopping
8Information
Hampi Bazaar
This little enclave is a classic travellers' ghetto. However, its existence is under threat as there are plans to demolish it.
oManash
GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448877420; manashhampi@gmail.com;
r with fan/AC
₹1200/1500;
a
W)
Owned by the legendary Mango Tree people, this place has only two rooms set off a little yard, but they are the best in Hampi Bazaar, each with quality mattresses, attractive decorative touches and free fast wi-fi.
Thilak HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9449900964; www.facebook.com/thilak.homestay;
r with fan/AC
₹1000/1500;
a
W)
A commendably clean, orderly place with eight well-presented rooms (and more in another block) that have spring mattresses and hot water. The owner is helpful and can arrange transport from Hosapete or around Hampi.
Pushpa Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448795120; pushpaguesthouse99@yahoo.in;
d from ₹900, with AC from
₹1300;
a
W)
Pushpa is a good all-rounder with comfortable, attractive and spotless rooms that have mossie nets. It has a lovely sit-out on the 1st floor, and reliable travel agency.
Ganesh GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; vishnuhampi@gmail.com;
r ₹500-800, with AC from
₹1500; a
W)
A welcoming place, the small family-run Ganesh has been around for over 20 years, and has four tidy, neat rooms. Also has a nice rooftop restaurant.
Archana Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08394-241547; addihampi@yahoo.com;
d from ₹800;
W)
On the riverfront, quiet and cheerful Archana has two plain rooms with river views above a restaurant. The others are in a separate block over the street.
Vicky’sGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9480561010; vikkyhampi@yahoo.co.in;
r from ₹350;
W)
Dependable cheapie with decent, basic rooms with mossie nets done up in pop purple and green and a friendly owner. There's a good travel agent here too.
Padma Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08394-241331; padmaguesthouse@gmail.com;
d ₹900-1600;
a
W)
Away from the main bazaar area, this guesthouse has a choice of basic, decent rooms, many with views of Virupaksha Temple, though bathrooms could do with an upgrade. The owners can arrange bus and train tickets.
Kiran Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448143906; kiranhampi2012@gmail.com;
r ₹600-800;
W)
No-frills guesthouse close to the riverfront and banana groves. Rooms are basic but clean, the showers are warmish and the family owners are helpful.
Netra GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9480569326; r from ₹500,
without bathroom from ₹300)
Basic, clean rooms for shoestringers, with an ambient open-air restaurant.
Gopi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08394-241695; www.gopi-guesthouse.com;
r with fan/AC
₹2000/2500;
a
i
W)
Split over two properties on the same street, long-standing Gopi offers friendly service and has good-quality rooms that are almost upscale for Hampi’s standards. There are temple views from its rooftop cafe. Walk-in rates are usually lower than online bookings.
Virupapur Gaddi & Around
The rural tranquillity of Virupapur Gaddi, across the river from Hampi Bazaar, has real appeal, particularly with Israelis – locals nickname the place 'Little Jerusalem'. However, authorities demolished buildings here in 2016, and its long-term status is unclear.
Sunny GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448566368; www.sunnyguesthouse.com;
r ₹450-1200;
i
W)
Sunny both in name and disposition, this popular guesthouse is a hit among backpackers for its characterful huts, very well-maintained tropical garden, hammocks and chilled-out restaurant.
ShanthiGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %8533287038; http://shanthihampi.com/;
cottages ₹1000-1800;
i)
Enjoys a stunning, peaceful setting next to rice fields and primed for sunset. Shanthi’s attractive earth-themed, thatched cottages have couch swings dangling in their front porches and the restaurant serves good grub.
Hema Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %8762395470; rockyhampi@gmail.com;
Virupapur Gaddi; d from
₹600;
W)
Worth considering, with rows of cute and comfy colourful cottages in a shady grove, all with a table or chair for company and a hammock; though mattresses could be better. Its restaurant is perpetually full with lazing tourists.
Manju’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9449247712; r ₹500,
without bathroom from ₹250)
The place for those who like things quiet, with attractive mud-brick huts in a bucolic setting among rice fields.
oHampi’s
BouldersLODGE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448034202; www.hampisboulders.com;
Narayanpet; r incl full
board from ₹5600;
a
W
s)
Beautifully designed, Hampi Boulders is the only luxury option in these parts, an ‘eco-wilderness’ resort in leafy gardens 7km west of Virupapur Gaddi. There’s a choice of themed rooms and chic cottages with elegant furnishings, river views and outdoor showers. There's a stunning natural pool for chlorine-free swims. Rates include guided walks, and the restaurant's food is from their organic farm.
HAMPI BAZAAR DEMOLITION
While in 1865 it was the Deccan sultanates who levelled Vijayanagar, today a different battle rages in Hampi, between conservationists bent on protecting Hampi’s architectural heritage and the locals who have settled there.
In 1999, Unesco placed Hampi on its list of World Heritage Sites in danger because of 'haphazard informal urbanisation' around the temples, particularly the ancient bazaar area near Virupaksha Temple.
The government consequently produced a masterplan which aimed to classify all of Hampi’s ruins as protected monuments. After years of inaction this plan was dramatically and forcefully put into action in July 2011. Shops, hotels and homes in Hampi Bazaar were bulldozed overnight, reducing the atmospheric main strip to rubble in hours, as 1500 villagers who’d made the site a living monument were evicted.
Villagers were compensated with a small plot of land in the village of Kaddirampur, 18km from the bazaar. There's talk of new guesthouses eventually opening up here but such is its distance from Hampi few villagers are keen to start building guesthouses. Meanwhile the displaced await their payout.
Then in May 2016 history repeated itself as homes, guesthouses and shops in the old village of Virupapur Gaddi were demolished. Larger establishments avoided the clearance by contesting eviction orders in court. Angry locals blame HWHAMA (Hampi World Heritage Area Management Authority) and the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) for the demolitions and argue that the masterplan is causing a lifeless 'museumification' of what was a vibrant cultural monument.
The main temple road today is devoid of buildings and bustle, and legendary hang-outs like the (original) Mango Tree have been knocked down. By early 2017 Hampi Bazaar consisted of an enclave of guesthouses and restaurants north of Virupaksha Temple, but its future is in doubt as there are more clearance plans in place.
5Eating
Due to Hampi’s religious significance, meat is strictly off the menu in all restaurants, and alcohol is banned (though some restaurants can order it for you).
Laughing BuddhaMULTICUISINE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; mains from
₹80; h8am-10pm;
W)
Laughing Buddha is perhaps Hampi's most atmospheric place to eat, with serene river views that span beyond to the temples and ruins and a loyal crowd of diners. Its menu includes curries, burgers and pizzas but service can be slow.
GouthamiMULTICUISINE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
mains ₹90-180; h8am-11pm)
A well-run place with the usual cushioned seating (or dining tables) and an excess of psychedelic wall hangings. Serves tasty Indian, Israeli and Western food; they've an espresso machine and the bakery at the front has good cakes.
MoonlightMULTICUISINE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
mains ₹80-150; h7.30am-10pm)
Simple, family-owned place that has a good set breakfast, espresso coffee and tasty pancakes and egg dishes and, of course, curries.
Ravi’s RoseMULTICUISINE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; mains from
₹100; h8am-10.30pm;
W)
This is the bazaar’s most social hang-out, with a good selection of dosas and thalis, but most are here for the, erm, special lassis (cough, cough, nudge, nudge).
oMango
TreeMULTICUISINE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
mains ₹140-310; h7.30am-9.30pm)
Hampi’s most famous restaurant has relocated to the bazaar inside an ambient tented restaurant but is still run by three generations of the same local family. It's an efficiently run place with good service and delicious Indian cuisines including thalis and spinach paneer with chapati (₹160).
7Shopping
Akash Art Gallery & BookstoreBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Hampi
Bazaar; h6am-9pm)
Excellent selection of books on Hampi and India, plus secondhand fiction. It has a free Hampi map.
Gali Djembe Music ShopMUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9449982586; www.facebook.com/pg/Galidurugappa;
Virupapur Gaddi;
h10am-7pm)
Run by an amiable musician who teaches djembe (drums) and didgeridoo this store sells Indian and Western musical instruments at fair prices.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Hampi is generally a safe, peaceful place. However, exercise normal precautions and don’t wander around the ruins after dark; female travellers should avoid being alone in the site's more remote parts. Alcohol and narcotics are illegal in Hampi.
Money
There’s no ATM in Hampi; the closest is 3km away in Kamalapuram – an autorickshaw costs ₹80 for a return trip.
Tourist Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08394-241339;
h10am-5.30pm
Sat-Thu)
Has brochures but is more useful for arranging cycling tours (per person ₹400 including bike and guide), walking guides (from ₹600) and bus tours (₹350, seven hours), all of which head to the ruins.
8Getting There & Away
Hosapete (Hospet) is the gateway to Hampi. There's only one daily direct (very slow) bus from Hampi Bazaar to Goa (₹663, 11 hours, 7pm). Travel agents in Hampi Bazaar can book bus tickets to Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Goa and other destinations; many of these include a minibus transfer from Hampi to Hosapete.
Local buses connect Hampi with Hosapete (₹22, 30 minutes, half-hourly) between 5.45am and 7.30pm. An autorickshaw costs around ₹180.
Hosapete is Hampi’s nearest train station.
8Getting Around
Bicycles cost ₹30 to ₹50 per day in Hampi Bazaar, while mopeds can be hired for ₹150 to ₹400. Traffic is very light around Hampi, except on the road to Hosapete.
A small boat shuttles frequently across
the river crossing (
GOOGLE MAP ; person/bicycle/motorbike
₹10/10/20; h6am-6pm) to Virupapur Gaddi. After dark it costs
₹50 to ₹100 per person depending on how late you cross. There are
also boats to Anegundi (
GOOGLE MAP ; person/bicycle/motorbike
₹10/10/20;
h6am-5.45pm) and Hunuman
Halli (
GOOGLE MAP ; person/bicycle ₹10/10;
h6am-5.45pm).
Walking the ruins is possible, but expect to cover at least 7km just to see the major sites. The beautiful river section between Hampi Bazaar and Vittala Temple is a delight to stroll. Autorickshaws and taxis are available for sightseeing, and an autorickshaw for the day costs around ₹750.
Organised tours depart from Hosapete and Hampi.
DAROJI SLOTH BEAR SANCTUARY
About 30km south of Hampi, amid scrubby
undulated terrain, lies the Daroji Sloth Bear
Sanctuary (
GOOGLE MAP ; ₹25,
vechicle ₹500; h2-6pm),
which nurses a large population of free-ranging sloth bears in an
area of 83 sq km. You have a good chance of spotting them (but only
from afar at the viewing platform), as honey is slathered on the
rocks to coincide with the arrival of visitors. Bring binoculars,
or there's no point showing up. Late afternoon is the best time to
visit.
Around Hampi
Anegundi
%08394
/ Pop 5600
Anegundi is an ancient fortified village that’s part of the Hampi World Heritage Site, but predates Hampi by way of human habitation. The settlement has been spared the blight of commercialisation, and retains a delightfully rustic feel where the seasons dictate the cycle of change and craft traditions endure.
It's accessed by a river crossing or via a long loop from Virupapur Gaddi.
1Sights & Activities
Mythically referred to as Kishkinda, the
kingdom of the monkey gods, Anegundi retains many of its historic
monuments, such as sections of its defensive wall and gates, and
the Ranganatha Temple (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk) devoted to Rama. Also worth visiting is
the Durga Temple (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
hdawn-dusk), an ancient shrine closer to the village
and the hilltop Hanuman Temple. A new museum is scheduled to open
here in 2017 in a meticulously restored old structure and other
royal residences are also being renovated.
Hanuman TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
The whitewashed Hanuman Temple, accessible by a 570-step climb up the Anjanadri Hill, has fine views of the rugged terrain around. Many believe this is the birthplace of Hanuman, the Hindu monkey god who was Rama’s devotee and helped him in his mission against Ravana. The hike up is pleasant, though you’ll be courted by impish monkeys. At the temple you may encounter chillum-puffing sadhus. It's a very popular sunset spot, with panoramic views over the Hampi region.
Kishkinda TrustCULTURAL PROGRAMS, OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
(TKT;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08533-267777; www.tktkishkinda.org;
Main Rd)
S
For cultural events, activities and volunteering opportunities, get in touch with Kishkinda Trust, an NGO based in Anegundi that works with local people.
4Sleeping & Eating
Anegundi has fantastic homestays in restored heritage buildings. It's ideal for experiencing Indian village life.
Peshegaar Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9449972230; www.urammaheritagehomes.com;
Hanumanahalli; s/d
₹500/1000)
In the middle of the village this homely, heritage place has five simple yet stylish rooms decorated with tribal textiles around a pleasant common area with courtyard garden. Bathrooms are shared, but there are four.
Uramma HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ;
%9449972230; www.urammaheritagehomes.com;
s/d per r
₹2100/4200;
W)
This 4th-century heritage house is a gem, with traditional-style rooms with exposed beams featuring boutique touches. It has two bedrooms and is ideal for a family or small group, with a dining room.
oUramma
CottageCOTTAGE$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08533-267792; www.urammaheritagehomes.com;
s/d incl breakfast from
₹2100/4200;
a
W)
Close to the river crossing, this wonderfully atmospheric village lodge has thatched-roof cottages with farmhouse charm scattered around a large grassy plot. The attention to detail is all-evident with rustic chic furniture, lovely bed linen and handmade textiles adding a splash of colour. Staff could not be more helpful and the restaurant serves very fine food (and beer).
Machaan StudioAPARTMENT$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448284658; www.urammaheritagehomes.com;
hapt incl
breakfast ₹5000;
W)
A gorgeous fully equipped loft-style place with a huge living space, sunken bathtub and terrace. It's been imaginatively designed with a mix of rustic and contemporary touches and has views of the Vittala Temple and river. It's in the neighbouring village of Hunuman Halli.
7Shopping
Banana Fibre Craft WorkshopARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-1pm
& 2-5pm Mon-Sat)
Watch on at this small workshop as workers ply their trade making a range of handicrafts and accessories using the bark of a banana tree, and recycled materials. Of course they sell it all too.
8Getting There & Away
Anegundi is 7km from Hampi, and reached by crossing the river on a boat (₹10) from the pier east of the Vittala Temple. From Hampi get here by moped or bicycle (if you’re feeling energetic). An autorickshaw to the Anegundi crossing costs ₹120 from Hampi.
Hosapete (Hospet)
%08394
/ Pop 168,600
A hectic, dusty regional city, Hosapete (still called Hospet by many) is notable only as a transport hub for Hampi.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel MalligiHOTEL$$
(%08394-228101; www.malligihotels.com;
Jabunatha Rd; r
₹2200-4000, ste from ₹5000;
a
i
W
s)
Boasts a choice of modern, well-serviced rooms, an aquamarine swimming pool, spa, a good multicuisine restaurant and lounge bar for TV sports events.
Udupi Sri Krishna BhavanSOUTH INDIAN$
(Bus
Stand; thali ₹45, mains ₹70-90; h6am-11pm)
This bustling place dishes out Indian vegie fare, including thalis and dosas, plus some North Indian dishes. It's opposite the bus stand.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Hosapete’s bus stand has services to Hampi every half-hour (₹22, 30 minutes). Overnight private sleeper buses ply to/from Goa (₹1200 to 1600, seven to 10 hours), Gokarna (₹700, 6½ hours), Bengaluru (₹510 to ₹660, seven hours), Mysuru (₹380 to ₹605, 8½ hours) and Hyderabad (₹890 to ₹1120, seven to eight hours).
Paulo Travels runs overnight buses to Gokarna and Goa.
Train
Hosapete’s train station is a ₹20 autorickshaw ride from the town centre. The 18047 Amaravathi Express heads to Magdaon, Goa (sleeper/2AC ₹225/860, 7½ hours) daily at 6.20am. The 16591 Hampi Express departs nightly at 9pm for Bengaluru (3AC/2AC/1AC ₹625/895/1505, nine hours) and Mysuru (₹840/1205/2015, 12 hours). For Hyderabad there's a daily train at 7pm (sleeper/2AC ₹305/1175, 12 hours).
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
DANDELI
Located in the jungles of the Western Ghats about 100km from Goa, emerging Dandeli is a wildlife getaway that promises close encounters with wildlife such as elephants, leopards, sloth bears, gaur, wild dogs and flying squirrels. It’s a chosen birding destination too, with resident hornbills, golden-backed woodpeckers, serpent eagles and white-breasted kingfishers. Also on offer are a slew of adventure activities, from kayaking to bowel-churning white-water rafting on the swirling waters of the Kali River.
Kali Adventure Camp
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08284-230266; www.junglelodges.com/kali-adventure-camp;
Dandeli;
hincl full
board Indian/foreigner tent from ₹4168/5052, r from
₹4948/5832;
W) is a
well-managed government lodge adhering to ecofriendly principles,
with rooms, tented cottages and accommodating staff. It organises
white-water rafting on the Kali (possible most of the year), guided
canoe adventures, canyoning and mountain-biking trips.
Frequent buses connect Dandeli to both Hubballi (₹58, two hours) and Dharwad (₹46, 1½ hours), with onward connections to Goa, Gokarna, Hosapete and Bengaluru.
Hubballi (Hubli)
%0836 /
Pop 958,600
Industrial Hubballi (still called by its old name Hubli by many) is a hub for rail routes for Mumbai, Bengaluru, Goa and northern Karnataka. There's no other reason to visit.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel AjantaHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%0836-2362216; Koppikar
Rd; s/d from ₹455/565)
A simple crash pad near the train station with a popular ground-floor restaurant that serves delicious regional-style thalis.
Hotel MetropolisHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %0836-4266666; www.hotelmetropolishubli.com;
Koppikar Rd;
hs/d with fan
₹1134/1242, with AC ₹1755/1989;
a
W)
In the city centre and convenient for the train station, with a choice of clean, attractive, spacious and good-value rooms. Staff are eager to help travellers and there are two restaurants, including a multicuisine rooftop option.
8Getting There & Away
The train station is 1.5km from the centrally located KSRTC Old Bus Stand, ₹50 in an autorickshaw. There's also a KSRTC New Bus Stand 4km west of the centre where many services originate, but nearly all also stop at the Old Bus Stand too.
Air
The airport is 6km west of the centre. Currently only Air India Regional operates a daily flight to Bengaluru. Buses (₹6, 20 minutes) run between Gokul Rd, 400m south of the terminal, and the centre; taxis cost ₹180.
Bus
There are very regular services to Bengaluru, most being overnight (₹420 to ₹650, seven to 8½ hours), and plenty daily to Vijapura (₹197 to ₹241, five to six hours) and mainly night-time buses to Hosapete (₹144 to ₹189, four hours). There's an 8am bus to Gokarna (₹158, four hours) and regular connections to Mumbai (₹715 to ₹1300, 11 to 14 hours), Mysuru (₹452 to ₹808, nine hours) and Panaji (₹171 to ₹347, five to six hours).
Train
From the train station, plenty of expresses head to Hosapete (sleeper/2AC ₹140/695, 2½ hours, six daily), Bengaluru (sleeper/2AC ₹270/1045, eight hours, three daily), Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹380/1435, 15½ hours) and Goa (sleeper/3AC ₹190/540, 6½ hours, two daily).
Northern Karnataka
Badami
%08357
/ Pop 26,600
Once the capital of the mighty Chalukya empire, today Badami is famous for its magnificent rock-cut cave temples, and red sandstone cliffs that resemble the Wild West. While the dusty main road is an eyesore that will have you wanting to get the hell out of there, its backstreets are a lovely area to explore with old houses, carved wooden doorways and the occasional Chalukyan ruin.
History
From about AD 540 to 757, Badami was the capital of an enormous kingdom stretching from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu to the Narmada River in Gujarat. It eventually fell to the Rashtrakutas, and changed hands several times thereafter, with each dynasty sculpturally embellishing Badami in their own way.
The sculptural legacy left by the Chalukyan artisans in Badami includes some of the earliest and finest examples of Dravidian temples and rock-cut caves.
1Sights & Activities
The bluffs and horseshoe-shaped red sandstone cliff of Badami offer some great low-altitude climbing. For more information, visit www.indiaclimb.com.
Badami’s caves overlook the 5th-century Agastyatirtha Tank ( GOOGLE MAP ) and the waterside Bhutanatha temples. The stairway behind the Archaeological Museum climbs to the North Fort.
Cave TemplesCAVE
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, children
under 15 free, tour guide ₹300; h9am-5.30pm)
Badami’s highlights are its beautiful cave temples, three Hindu and one Jain, which display exquisite sculptures and intricate carvings. They're a magnificent example of Chalukya architecture and date back to the 6th century. All have a columned verandah, interior hall and a shrine at their rear.
Cave One, just above the entrance to the complex, is dedicated to Shiva. It’s the oldest of the four caves, probably carved in the latter half of the 6th century. On the wall to the right of the porch is a captivating image of Nataraja striking 81 dance moves in the one pose. On the right of the porch area is a huge figure of Ardhanarishvara. On the opposite wall is a large image of Harihara, half Shiva and half Vishnu.
Dedicated to Vishnu, Cave Two is simpler in design. As with caves one and three, the front edge of the platform is decorated with images of pot-bellied dwarfs in various poses. Four pillars support the verandah, their tops carved with a bracket in the shape of a yali (mythical lion creature). On the left wall of the porch is the bull-headed figure of Varaha, the emblem of the Chalukya empire. To his left is Naga, a snake with a human face. On the right wall is a large sculpture of Trivikrama, another incarnation of Vishnu.
Between the second and third caves are two sets of steps to the right. The first leads to a natural cave with a small image of Padmapani (an incarnation of the Buddha). The second set of steps – sadly, barred by a gate – leads to the hilltop South Fort.
Cave Three, carved in AD 578, is the largest and most impressive. On the left wall is a carving of Vishnu, to whom the cave is dedicated, sitting on a snake. Nearby is an image of Varaha with four hands. The pillars have carved brackets in the shape of yalis. The ceiling panels contain images, including Indra riding an elephant, Shiva on a bull and Brahma on a swan. Keep an eye out for the image of drunken revellers, in particular one lady being propped up by her husband. There’s also original colour on the ceiling; the divots on the floor at the cave’s entrance were used as paint palettes.
Dedicated to Jainism, Cave Four is the smallest of the set and dates to between the 7th and 8th centuries. The right wall has an image of Suparshvanatha (the seventh Jain tirthankar) surrounded by 24 Jain tirthankars. The inner sanctum contains an image of Adinath, the first Jain tirthankar.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP ; ₹5;
h9am-5pm
Sat-Thu)
The archaeological museum houses superb examples of local sculpture, including a remarkably explicit Lajja-Gauri image of a fertility cult that once flourished in the area. There are many sculptures of Shiva in different forms and there's a diorama of the Shidlaphadi cave.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mookambika DeluxeHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08357-220067; hotelmookambika@yahoo.com;
Station Rd; d with
fan/AC from ₹1200/1800;
a
W)
For 'deluxe' read 'decent' – this hotel offers fair value with rooms done up in matt orange and green. Staff are a good source of travel info. It's opposite the bus stand.
Hotel Mayura ChalukyaHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08357-220046; www.kstdc.co/hotels;
Ramdurg Rd; d with
fan/AC from ₹962/1282;
a
W)
Away from the bustle, this government hotel has large, clean rooms with an OK restaurant serving Indian staples.
Krishna HeritageHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08357-221300; www.krishnaheritagebadami.com;
Ramdurg Rd; s/d incl
breakfast ₹4000/6000;
a
W)
Located 2km west of the centre this attractive hotel is set in landscaped grounds. Rooms are massive with open-air showers and balconies and the large restaurant has delightful views over gardens and fields.
Bridge RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Clarks
Hotel, Veerpulakeshi Circle; mains
₹130-320; h7am-10.30pm;
W)
Just the place when you need some AC relief, this business hotel's restaurant makes a good stab at Western dishes like pasta and pizza as well as Chinese and North Indian fare.
8Getting There & Away
Badami is not served by many direct services. From Badami’s bus stand on Station Rd there's one direct bus to both Vijapura (₹157, four hours, 5pm) and Hubballi (₹100, five hours, 3.15pm) but otherwise head on one of the regular buses to Kerur (₹26, 45 minutes), which has many more connections.
8Getting Around
Theoretically, you can visit Aihole and Pattadakal in a day from Badami by bus if you get moving early. Start with Aihole (₹38, one hour), then move to Pattadakal (₹22, 30 minutes), and finally return to Badami (₹40, one hour). The last bus from Pattadakal to Badami is at 4pm.
However, it’s much easier and less stressful to arrange an autorickshaw (₹1000) or taxi (₹2000) for a day trip to Pattadakal, Aihole and nearby Mahakuta.
Around Badami
Pattadakal
%08357
/ Pop 1630
A secondary capital of the Badami Chalukyas, Pattadakal is known for its finely carved Hindu and Jain temples, which are collectively a World Heritage Site. The surrounding village of Pattadakal is tiny; most travellers visit the site from nearby Badami.
1Sights
Barring a few that date back to the 3rd
century AD, most of Pattadakal's World Heritage Site–listed temples
were built during the 7th and 8th centuries AD. The main
Virupaksha Temple (h6am-6pm) is a massive structure, its columns
covered with intricate carvings depicting episodes from the
Ramayana and Mahabharata. A giant stone sculpture of Nandi sits to
the temple’s east. The Mallikarjuna Temple, next
to the Virupaksha Temple, is almost identical in design.
About 500m south of the main enclosure is the Jain Papanatha Temple, its entrance flanked by elephant sculptures.
8Getting There & Away
Pattadakal is 20km from Badami, with buses (₹28) departing every 30 minutes until about 5pm. There’s a morning and afternoon bus to Aihole (₹20), 13km away.
Aihole
%08351
/ Pop 3200
Some 100 temples, built between the 4th and 6th centuries AD, speck the ancient Chalukyan regional capital of Aihole (ay-ho-leh). Most, however, are either in ruins or engulfed by the modern village. Aihole documents the embryonic stage of South Indian Hindu architecture, from the earliest simple shrines, such as the most ancient Ladkhan Temple, to the later and more complex buildings, such as the Meguti Temple.
Aihole is about 40km from Badami and 13km from Pattadakal.
1Sights
The most impressive of all the temples in
Aihole is the 7th-century Durga Temple
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Indian/foreigner ₹5/200, camera
₹25; h6am-6pm), notable for its semicircular apse
(inspired by Buddhist architecture) and the remains of the
curvilinear sikhara (temple spire). The interiors house
intricate stone carvings. The small museum (
GOOGLE MAP ;
₹5;
h9am-5pm
Sat-Thu) behind the
temple contains further examples of Chalukyan sculpture.
To the south of the Durga Temple are several other temple clusters, including early examples. About 600m to the southeast, on a low hillock, is the Jain Meguti Temple. Watch out for snakes if you’re venturing up.
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses run from Badami to Aihole (₹38, one hour).
Vijapura (Bijapur)
%08352
/ Pop 337,200
A historic city epitomising the Deccan’s Islamic era, dusty Vijapura (renamed in 2014 but still widely called Bijapur) tells a glorious tale dating back some 600 years. Blessed with a heap of mosques, mausoleums, palaces and fortifications, it was the capital of the Adil Shahi kings from 1489 to 1686, and one of the five splinter states formed after the Islamic Bahmani kingdom broke up in 1482. Despite its strong Islamic character, Vijapura is also a centre for the Lingayat brand of Shaivism, which emphasises a single personalised god. The Lingayat Siddeshwara Festival (Jan or Feb) runs for eight days.

Vijapura (Bijapur)
1Top Sights
1Sights
1Sights
oGolgumbazMONUMENT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; h10am-5pm)
Set in tranquil gardens, the magnificent Golgumbaz mausoleum houses the tombs of emperor Mohammed Adil Shah (r 1627–56), his two wives, his mistress (Rambha), one of his daughters and a grandson. Octagonal seven-storey towers stand at each corner of the monument, which is capped by an enormous dome. Climb the steep, narrow stairs up one of the towers to reach the ‘whispering gallery’ within the dome, which has terrific acoustics (which excitable schoolchildren love to prove to loud effect).
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; ₹5;
h10am-5pm
Sat-Thu)
A well-presented archaeological museum set in the Golgumbaz lawns. Skip the ground floor and head upstairs; there you’ll find an excellent collection of artefacts, such as oriental carpets, china crockery, weapons, armoury and scrolls.
Jama MasjidMOSQUE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Jama Masjid
Rd; h9am-5.30pm)
Constructed by Ali Adil Shah I (r 1557–80), the finely proportioned Jama Masjid has graceful arches, a fine dome and a vast inner courtyard with room for more than 2200 worshippers. Women should make sure to cover their heads and not wear revealing clothing.
Asar MahalHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; h6am–8.30pm)
F
Built by Mohammed Adil Shah in about 1646 to serve as a Hall of Justice, the graceful Asar Mahal once housed two hairs from Prophet Mohammed’s beard. The rooms on the upper storey are decorated with frescoes and a square tank graces the front. It’s out of bounds for women.
CitadelFORT
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP )F
Surrounded by fortified walls and a wide moat, the citadel once contained the palaces, pleasure gardens and durbar (royal court) of the Adil Shahi kings. Now mainly in ruins, the most impressive of the remaining fragments are the colossal arches of the Gagan Mahal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), built by Ali Adil Shah I around 1561. The gates here are locked, but someone will be on hand to let you in.
The ruins of Mohammed Adil Shah’s seven-storey palace, the Sat Manzil ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), are nearby. Across the road stands the delicate Jala Manzil, once a water pavilion surrounded by secluded courts and gardens. On the other side of Station Rd (MG Rd) are the graceful arches of Bara Kaman ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the ruined mausoleum of Ali Roza.
Central MarketMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; Station
Rd; h9am-9pm)
This lively market is an explosion of colour and scents with flowers, spices and fresh produce on sale.
Upli BurujHISTORIC SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP )F
Upli Buruj is a 16th-century, 24m-high watchtower near the western walls of the city. An external flight of stairs leads to the top, where you’ll find two hefty cannons and good views of other monuments around town.
Malik-e-MaidanHISTORIC SITE
(Monarch of the Plains; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Perched upon a platform is this beast of a cannon – over 4m long, almost 1.5m in diameter and estimated to weigh 55 tonnes. Cast in 1549, it was supposedly brought to Vijapura as a war trophy thanks to the efforts of 10 elephants, 400 oxen and hundreds of men!
oIbrahim
RouzaMONUMENT
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; h6am-6pm)
The beautiful Ibrahim Rouza is among the most elegant and finely proportioned Islamic monuments in India. Its 24m-high minarets are said to have inspired those of the Taj Mahal, and its tale is similarly poignant: built by emperor Ibrahim Adil Shah II (r 1580–1627) as a future mausoleum for his queen, Taj Sultana. Ironically, he died before her, and was thus the first person to be rested there. Also interred here with Ibrahim Adil Shah are his queen, children and mother.
For a tip (₹150 is fine), caretakers can show you around the monument, including the dark labyrinth around the catacomb where the actual graves are located.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel TouristHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08352-250655; Station
Rd; s/d from ₹220/360)
A dive bang in the middle of the bazaar, with no-frills rooms; their 'deluxe' options cost slightly more but are worth it.
oSabala Heritage
HomeHERITAGE HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %9448118204; www.sabalaheritagehome.org;
Bijapur Bypass, NH-13, near Ganesh
Nagar; r incl breakfast & dinner
₹3000;
W)
S
On the edge of the city this heritage hotel has attractive, artistically decorated rooms overlooking farmland. Food is home-cooked, flavoursome and inventive. The hotel is linked to an NGO that empowers women and trades fine handicrafts (there's a store here too). It's 4km south of the centre.
Hotel PearlHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08352-256002; www.hotelpearlbijapur.com;
633 Station Rd; d with
fan/AC from ₹1600/2200;
a
W)
Offering good value, this midrange hotel has
clean motel-style rooms around a central atrium, and is
conveniently located to Golgumbaz. Wi-fi is a bit spotty but its
in-house Qaswa Hills restaurant
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Pearl Hotel, Station
Rd; meals ₹120-280; h7am-4pm &
7-10pm) is very
popular.
Hotel Madhuvan InternationalHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %08352-255571; Station
Rd; d with fan/AC ₹1600/2100;
a
W)
An ongoing renovation program means most
rooms are in good shape at this pleasant hotel which has a
courtyard garden. It's hidden down a lane off Station Rd and has a
great in-house restaurant (
GOOGLE MAP ; Station
Rd; mains ₹60-100; h9am-11am,
noon-4pm & 7-11pm).
There's no lift, however.
7Shopping
Sabala HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS
(
GOOGLE MAP ; http://sabalahandicrafts.com;
NH13, Bijapur
Bypass; from ₹800; h8am-5.30pm)
Beautiful handmade textiles, bags, saris, kurtas and accessories. Profits benefit an NGO that empowers village women. It's 4km south of the centre.
8Information
Tourist Office
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08352-250359; Hotel Mayura
Adil Shahi Annexe, Station Rd;
h10am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat) Has good
Vijapura brochures with map.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The following services leave from the
bus stand (
GOOGLE MAP ; %083520-251344; Meenakshi
Chowk Rd;
h24hr):
ABengaluru ordinary/sleeper ₹576/757, 12 hours, four daily
ABidar ₹265, 6½ hours, four evening buses
AKalaburgi (Gubarga) ₹164, four hours, three day buses
AHosapete ₹241, five hours, five daily
AHubballi ₹193 to ₹241, five hours, two daily
AHyderabad ₹373 to ₹729, eight to 10 hours, six daily
AMumbai ₹660, 12 hours, four daily, via Pune (₹428, eight hours)
APanaji (Goa) ₹335 to ₹415, 10 hours, two daily
Train
Trains from Vijapura station go to:
ABadami 17320 Hubli-Secunderabad Express, sleeper/2AC ₹140/695, 2½ hours, 1am and two other daily trains
ABengaluru 16536 Golgumbaz Express, sleeper/2AC ₹355/1395, 15½ hours, 5pm
AHyderabad 17319 Secunderabad Express, sleeper/2AC ₹250/960, 11 hours, 1am
8Getting Around
Given the amount to see and distance to cover, ₹700 is a fair price to hire an autorickshaw for a day of sightseeing. Short hops around town cost ₹50.
Bidar
%08482
/ Pop 218,500
Despite being home to amazing ruins and monuments, Bidar, hidden away in Karnataka’s far northeastern corner, gets very little tourist traffic – which of course makes it all the more appealing. It’s a city drenched in Islamic Indian history, with this old-walled town being first the capital of the Bahmani kingdom (1428–87) and later the capital of the Barid Shahi dynasty. This is one of the least Westernised parts of Karnataka, with many niqab-wearing women and turbaned Sikh pilgrims, and though locals are welcoming to visitors, conservative values predominate.
1Sights
oBidar
FortFORT
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
h6am-6pm)
F
Keep aside a few hours for peacefully wandering around the remnants of this magnificent 15th-century fort, the largest in South India – and once the administrative capital of much of the region. Surrounded by a triple moat hewn out of solid red rock and many kilometres of defensive walls, the fort has a fairy-tale entrance that twists in an elaborate chicane through three gateways.
Information at the site is minimal so consider hiring a guide from the archaeological office (who can unlock the most interesting ruins within the fort). These include the Rangin Mahal (Painted Palace), with elaborate tilework, teak pillars and panels with mother-of-pearl inlay, Solah Khamba Mosque (Sixteen-Pillared Mosque), and Tarkash Mahal with exquisite Islamic inscriptions and wonderful rooftop views. There’s a small museum in the former royal bath with local artefacts.
Khwaja Mahmud Gawan MadrasaRUIN, HISTORIC SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
F
Dominating the heart of the old town are the ruins of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa, a college for advanced learning built in 1472. To get an idea of its former grandeur, check out the remnants of coloured tiles on the front gate and one of the minarets which still stands intact.
Guru Nanak Jhira SahibSIKH TEMPLE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; Shiva
Nagar; h24hr)
F
This large Sikh temple on the northwestern side of town is dedicated to the guru Guru Nanak and was built in 1948. It's centred around the Amrit Kund (a water tank) where pilgrims cleanse their souls.
Bahmani TombsHISTORIC SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)
F
The huge domed tombs of the Bahmani kings in Ashtur, 3km east of Bidar, were built to house the remains of the sultans, of which the painted interior of Ahmad Shah Bahman’s tomb is the most impressive.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel MayuraHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
%08482-228142; Udgir
Rd; d with fan/AC from ₹1100/2200;
a
W)
Its concrete exterior is unappealing but rooms are cheerful and well-appointed. There's a bar and restaurant and it’s opposite the central bus stand. Look out for its NBC-peacock symbol.
Hotel Mayura Barid ShahiHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP ; %08482-221740; Udgir
Rd; s/d ₹500/600, r with AC ₹900;
a
W)
Maintenance could be better at this old-timer which has simple, institutional rooms, a central location and a popular garden bar-restaurant.
Jyothi FortINDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Bidar Fort; mains
₹70-120; h9am-5pm)
A peaceful setting at the fort’s entry with tables set up on the grass under sprawling tamarind trees has delicious vegetarian meals.
Kamat HotelSOUTH INDIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP ;
Udgir Rd; meals
₹80-150; h7.30am-10pm)
Scores highly for South Indian classics at very affordable rates. It's busy through the day and there's an AC room.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus stand, frequent buses run to Kalaburagi (₹124, three hours) and there are two evening buses to Vijapura (₹280, seven hours). There are also buses to Hyderabad (₹142, four hours, 6.30pm) and Bengaluru (semideluxe/AC ₹750/900, 13 hours, five daily).
Trains head to Hyderabad (sleeper ₹100, five hours, 2am) and Bengaluru (sleeper/2AC ₹370/1435, 13 hours, 6.05pm).
8Getting Around
You can arrange a day tour in an autorickshaw for around ₹600.