Christchurch & Canterbury
Why Go?
Nowhere in New Zealand is changing and developing as fast as post-earthquake Christchurch, and visiting the country’s second-largest city as it’s being rebuilt and reborn is both interesting and inspiring.
A short drive from Christchurch’s dynamic re-emergence, Banks Peninsula conceals hidden bays and beaches – a backdrop for wildlife cruises with a sunset return to the attractions of Akaroa. To the north are the vineyards of the Waipara Valley and the family-holiday ambience of Hanmer Springs. Westwards, the well-ordered farms of the Canterbury Plains morph quickly into the dramatic wilderness of the Southern Alps.
Canterbury’s summertime attractions include tramping along the braided rivers and alpine valleys around Arthur’s Pass and mountain biking around the turquoise lakes of the Mackenzie Country. During winter, the attention switches to the skifields. Throughout the seasons, Aoraki/Mt Cook, the country’s tallest peak, stands sentinel over this diverse region.
When to Go
» Canterbury is one of NZ’s driest regions, as moisture-laden westerlies from the Tasman Sea dump their rainfall on the West Coast before hitting the eastern South Island. Visit from January to March for hot and settled summer weather and plenty of opportunities to get active amid the region’s spectacular landscapes.
» It’s also festival time in Christchurch with January’s World Buskers Festival and the Ellerslie International Flower Show in March.
» Hit the winter slopes from July to October at Mt Hutt or on Canterbury’s smaller club ski fields.
Best Places to Eat
» Pegasus Bay (Click here)
» Cornershop Bistro (Click here)
» C1 Espresso (Click here)
» Saggio di Vino (Click here)
» Addington Coffee Co-op (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Double Dutch (Click here)
» Maison de la Mer (Click here)
» Chalet Boutique Motel (Click here)
» Halfmoon Cottage (Click here)
Christ-church & Canterbury Highlights
Supporting the exciting rebuilding
and re-emergence of Christchurch (Click
here)
Meandering through Christchurch’s
beautiful Botanic Gardens
(Click
here), either on foot or punting along the Avon River
Marvelling at the otherworldly
views of the Mackenzie Country and the powdery blueness of Lake
Tekapo from atop Mt John
(Click
here)
Taking a soothing soak at
Hanmer Springs Thermal
Pools (Click
here)
Admiring Banks Peninsula’s
surf-bitten edges from Summit Rd before descending to Francophile
Akaroa (Click
here) for an ooh-la-la dinner
Tramping in the shadow of NZ’s
highest peak in Aoraki/Mt Cook
National Park (Click
here)
Enjoying a lazy lunch at
Pegasus Bay winery
(Click
here) before careering around the vineyards of the Waipara
Valley
Getting There & Around
Air
Christchurch’s international airport is the South Island’s main hub. Air New Zealand flies here from 15 domestic destinations, while Jetstar has flights from Auckland, Wellington and Queenstown. Air New Zealand also flies between Timaru and Wellington.
Bus
Christchurch is the hub for coaches and shuttles heading up the coast as far as Picton, down the coast to Dunedin (and on to Te Anau), through the Alps to Greymouth and across country to Queenstown.
Train
The TranzAlpine service connects Christchurch and Greymouth, and the Coastal Pacific chugs north to Picton, with ferry connections across Cook Strait to the North Island.
ESSENTIAL CANTERBURY
Eat Salmon spawned in the shadow of NZ’s tallest mountains
Drink NZ’s best craft beer at Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn (Click here)
Read Old Bucky & Me, a poignant account of the 2011 earthquake by Christchurch journalist Jane Bowron
Listen to Scribe’s The Crusader (2003), still the best shout-out to the region, with a name that references Canterbury’s Super Rugby team
Watch Heavenly Creatures, Sir Peter Jackson’s best film not involving hobbits, set in Christchurch
Go green At the ecofriendly Okuti Garden (Click here) on Banks Peninsula
Online www.christchurchnz.com, www.mtcooknz.com
Area
code 
03
Christchurch
Pop 342,000
Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, coping creatively with the aftermath of NZ’s second-worst natural disaster. Traditionally the most English of NZ cities, Christchurch’s heritage heart was all but hollowed out following the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that left 186 people dead.
Punts still glide gently down the Avon River, and the Botanic Gardens and Hagley Park remain some of NZ’s finest public spaces. But in the empty lots and abandoned buildings left in the wake of the earthquakes, interesting art projects have sprung up, and clever, creative people are slowly starting to make things happen. Each new opening and restoration is greeted with enthusiasm by a grateful public, frustrated by the pace of the rebuild and eager to see what shape their future city will take.
If you’re worried that your interest in post-earthquake Christchurch may seem in poor taste, don’t be. Locals are genuinely keen to welcome sensitive visitors back to their city – and despite the heartache, they’re the first to acknowledge how fascinating it all is.
Christchurch
Sights
Sleeping
Eating
History
The first people to live in what is now Christchurch were moa hunters, who arrived around 1250. Immediately prior to colonisation, the Ngai Tahu tribe had a small seasonal village on the banks of the Avon called Otautahi.
When British settlers arrived in 1880 it was an ordered Church of England project; the passengers on the ‘First Four Ships’ were dubbed by the British press ‘the Canterbury Pilgrims’. Christchurch was meant to be a model of class-structured England in the South Pacific, not just another scruffy colonial outpost. Churches were built rather than pubs, the fertile farming land was deliberately placed in the hands of the gentry, and wool made the elite of Christchurch wealthy.
In 1856 Christchurch officially became NZ’s first city, and a very English one at that. Town planning and architecture assumed a close affinity with the ‘Mother Country’ and English-style gardens were planted, earning it the nickname, the ‘Garden City’. To this day, Christchurch in spring is a glorious place to be.
Central Christchurch
Sights
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking &
Nightlife
Sights
City Centre
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
Botanic Gardens (www.ccc.govt.nz; Rolleston Ave;
7am-8.30pm Oct-Mar, to
6.30pm Apr-Sep) 
Strolling through
these blissful 30 riverside hectares of arboreal and floral
splendour is a consummate Christchurch experience. Gorgeous at any
time of the year, it’s particularly impressive in spring when the
rhododendrons, azaleas and daffodil woodland are in riotous bloom.
There are thematic gardens to explore, lawns to sprawl on, and a
playground adjacent to the Botanic Gardens
Information Centre
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ( 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am-4pm Sat & Sun)
.
Guided walks ($10) depart at 1.30pm
(mid-September to April) from the Canterbury Museum, or you can
tour around the gardens in the Caterpillar train ( 0800 88 22 23; www.gardentours.co.nz; adult/child
$18/9; 11am-3pm) .
(Riccarton Ave) Wrapping itself around the Botanic Gardens, Hagley Park is Christchurch’s biggest green space, stretching for 165 hectares. Riccarton Ave splits it in two and the Avon River snakes through the north half. It’s a great place to stroll, whether on a foggy autumn morning or on a warm spring day, when the cherry trees lining Harper Ave are in flower. Joggers make the most of the tree-lined avenues, year-round.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-366 5000; www.canterburymuseum.com; Rolleston
Ave; 9am-5pm) Yes, there’s a mummy and dinosaur
bones, but the highlights of this museum are more local and more
recent. The Maori galleries contain some beautiful pounamu
(greenstone) pieces, while Christchurch Street is an atmospheric
walk through the colonial past. The reproduction of Fred &
Myrtle’s gloriously kitsch Paua Shell House embraces Kiwiana at its
best, and kids will enjoy the interactive displays in the Discovery
Centre (admission $2). Hour-long guided tours commence at 3.30pm on
Tuesday and Thursday.
Arts Centre HISTORIC BUILDINGS
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.artscentre.org.nz; 2 Worcester Blvd) Dating from 1877, this enclave of Gothic Revival buildings was originally Canterbury College, the forerunner of Canterbury University. The college’s most famous alumnus was the father of nuclear physics Lord Ernest Rutherford, the NZ physicist who first split the atom in 1917 (that’s him on the $100 bill).
You’ll have to be content to admire the architecture from the street, as the complex was badly damaged in the earthquakes. Some parts are scheduled to reopen at the end of 2015, but the whole restoration is expected to take 10 years.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.quakecity.co.nz; 99 Cashel St;
adult/child $10/free; 10am-6pm) One of the new must-sees of
Christchurch, this little museum tells the story of the earthquakes
through photography, video footage and various artefacts, including
bits fallen off the Cathedral and the statue of the ‘founder of
Canterbury’ John Robert Godley that toppled from its perch in the
square. Most affecting of all is the film featuring locals telling
their own stories from that fateful day.
Christchurch’s historic hub sits at the heart of the grid of streets that delineate the devastated city centre. At its centre (at the time of writing, at least) is what remains of ChristChurch Cathedral. Built in 1881, this much-loved icon of the city has become emblematic of the battle between those who seek to preserve what remains of Christchurch’s heritage, the fiscal pragmatists, and those ideologically inclined to things new.
The February 2011 earthquake brought down the Gothic church’s 63m-high spire, leaving only the bottom half of the tower. Subsequent earthquakes in June 2011 and December 2011 destroyed the cathedral’s prized stained-glass rose window. Despite the nave remaining largely intact, the deconstruction and demolition of the cathedral was announced in March 2012 by the Anglican Diocese. Heritage advocates launched court proceedings to prevent the demolition, and at the time of writing, cases were still pending.
Other heritage buildings around Cathedral Sq were also badly damaged, but one modern landmark left unscathed is the 18m-high metal sculpture Chalice, designed by Neil Dawson. It was erected in 2001 to commemorate the new millennium.
(www.gapfiller.org.nz) With so
much empty space around the city, this organisation is doing its
best to fill it with interesting things. Installations range from
whimsical bits of art, to moving memorials to earthquake victims,
to a minigolf course scattered around different abandoned lots.
There are pianos to play, books to read and giant chess pieces to
manoeuvre. One of the larger projects is the Pallet Pavilion
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP (www.palletpavilion.com; cnr Kimore &
Durham Sts; 
) , a large cafe-bar–performance space
demarcated by blue-painted storage pallets.
Things are changing constantly, so check out the Gap Map on the website, or simply wander the streets and see what you can find.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz; 234
Hereford St; suggested donation $5; 9am-5pm) Universally known as the Cardboard
Cathedral due to the 98 cardboard tubes used in its construction,
this interesting structure serves as both the city’s temporary
Anglican cathedral and as a concert venue. Designed by Japanese
‘disaster architect’ Shigeru Ban, the entire building was built in
11 months.
CHRISTCHURCH IN...
Two Days
After breakfast at C1 Espresso, take some time to walk around the ruined and regenerating city centre, visit Quake City and wander through Cathedral Square. Make your way to the Arts Centre and put together your own informal lunch at Canterbury Cheesemongers . After lunch, visit the excellent Canterbury Museum and take a walk through the lovely Botanic Gardens. That evening, explore the Victoria St dining and drinking strip.
Start day two at the Addington Coffee Co-op and then head up to the gondola for the views and a walk at the top. Continue on to Lyttelton for lunch before returning to the city for a punt on the Avon River. Head out to Sumner for a late-afternoon swim or a stroll, then stop for dinner and catch a flick at the Hollywood Cinema.
Four Days
Follow the two-day itinerary, then head to Akaroa to explore its wildlife-rich harbour, and Banks Peninsula’s beautiful outer bays. On day four, visit Orana Wildlife Park and then finish the day at the Tannery in Woolston.
Suburbs
Riccarton House & Bush GARDENS, FOREST
OFFLINE MAP(www.riccartonhouse.co.nz; 16 Kahu Rd,
Riccarton) Historic Riccarton House (1856)
has been closed to the public since the earthquakes but hundreds
still head to the pretty grounds for the Saturday Farmers Market
(Click
here) and Sunday Artisan Market (Click
here). Just behind the main house, cute little Deans Cottage is the oldest building on the Canterbury
Plains, dating from 1843.
Even more venerable is the small patch of predator-free bush behind the cottage. Enclosed by a vermin-proof fence, this is the last stand of kahikatea floodplain forest in Canterbury. Kahikatea is NZ’s tallest native tree, growing to heights of 60m; the tallest trees here are a mere 30m and around 300 to 600 years old. A short loop track heads through the heart of the forest.
International
Antarctic Centre EDUCATION CENTRE
(
0508 736 4846; www.iceberg.co.nz; 38 Orchard Rd,
Christchurch Airport; adult/child $39/19;
9am-5.30pm) Part of a huge
complex built for the administration of the NZ, US and Italian
Antarctic programs, this centre gives visitors the opportunity to
see penguins and learn about the icy continent. Attractions include
the Antarctic Storm chamber, where you can get a taste of -18°C
wind chill.
The ‘Xtreme Pass’ (adult/child $59/29) includes the ‘4D theatre’ (a 3D film with moving seats and a water spray) and rides on a Hägglund all-terrain amphibious Antarctic vehicle. An optional extra is the Penguin Backstage Pass (adult/child $25/15), which takes visitors behind the scenes of the Penguin Encounter.
A free shuttle departs from outside the Canterbury Museum on the hour from 10am to 4pm, and from the Antarctic Centre on the half-hour.
(www.oranawildlifepark.co.nz; McLeans
Island Rd, McLeans Island; adult/child $28/9;
10am-5pm) Orana describes
itself as an ‘open range zoo’ and you’ll know what they mean if you
opt to jump in the cage for the lion encounter (an additional $35).
There’s an excellent, walk-through native-bird aviary, a nocturnal
kiwi house, and a reptile exhibit featuring tuatara. Most of the
80-hectare grounds are devoted to Africana, including rhinos,
giraffes, zebras, lemurs and cheetahs.
Willowbank Wildlife Reserve ZOO
(www.willowbank.co.nz; 60 Hussey Rd,
Northwood; adult/child $28/11; 9.30am-7pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep)
About 10km north of the
central city, Willowbank focuses on native NZ critters (including
kiwis), heritage farmyard animals and hands-on enclosures with
wallabies, deer and lemurs. There’s also a re-created Maori
village. In the evening this is the setting for the Ko
Tane (www.kotane.co.nz; adult/child
$135/68; 5.30pm) cultural experience, which includes
a traditional Maori welcome, cultural performance and
hangi (earth oven) meal.
THE CANTERBURY EARTHQUAKES
Christchurch’s seismic nightmare began at 4.35am on 4 September 2010. Centred 40km west of the city, a 40-second, 7.1-magnitude earthquake jolted Cantabrians from their sleep, and caused widespread damage to older buildings in the central city. Close to the quake’s epicentre in rural Darfield, huge gashes erupted amid grassy pastures and the South Island’s main railway line was bent and buckled. Because the tremor struck in the early hours of the morning when most people were home in bed, there were no fatalities, and many Christchurch residents felt that the city had dodged a bullet.
Fast forward to 12.51pm on 22 February 2011, when central Christchurch was busy with shoppers and workers enjoying their lunch break. This time the 6.3-magnitude quake was much closer, centred just 10km southeast of the city and only 5km deep. The tremor was significantly more extreme, and many locals report being flung violently and almost vertically into the air. The peak ground acceleration exceeded 1.8, almost twice the acceleration of gravity.
When the dust settled after 24 traumatic seconds, NZ’s second-largest city had changed forever. The towering spire of the iconic ChristChurch Cathedral lay in ruins; walls and verandahs had cascaded down on shopping strips; and two multistorey buildings had pancaked. Of the 185 deaths (across 20 nationalities), 115 occurred in the six-storey Canterbury TV building, where many international students at a language school were killed. Elsewhere, the historic port town of Lyttelton was badly damaged; roads and bridges were crumpled; and residential suburbs in the east were inundated as a process of rapid liquefaction saw tonnes of oozy silt rise from the ground.
In the months that followed literally hundreds of aftershocks rattled the city’s traumatised residents (and claimed one more life), but the resilience and bravery of Cantabrians quickly became evident. From the region’s rural heartland, the ‘Farmy Army’ descended on the city, armed with shovels and food hampers. Social media mobilised 10,000 students, and the Student Volunteer Army became a vital force for residential clean-ups in the city’s beleaguered eastern suburbs. Heartfelt aid and support arrived from across NZ, and seven other nations sent specialised urban-search-and-rescue teams.
The impact of the events of a warm summer’s day in early 2011 will take longer than a generation to resolve. Entire streets and neighbourhoods in the eastern suburbs have had to be abandoned, and Christchurch’s heritage architecture is irrevocably damaged. Three years after the quake, families in some parts of the city were still living in substandard accommodation, waiting for insurance claims to be settled. Around 80% of the buildings within the city centre’s famed four avenues have been or are due to be demolished, and at the time of writing the empty blocks are an eerie sight, leaving much of the city centre looking like a giant car park.
Plans for the next 20 years of the city’s rebuild include a compact, low-rise city centre, large green spaces, and parks and cycleways along the Avon River. It’s estimated that the total rebuild and repair bill could reach $40 billion.
Activities
Boating
Antigua Boat Sheds BOATING, KAYAKING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-366 6768; www.boatsheds.co.nz; 2 Cambridge
Tce; 7am-5pm) Dating from 1882, the photogenic
green-and-white Antigua Boat Sheds hires out row boats ($35),
kayaks ($12), Canadian canoes ($35) and bikes (adult/child $10/5);
all prices are per hour. There’s also an excellent cafe.
(www.punting.co.nz; 2 Cambridge Tce;
adult/child $25/12; 9am-6pm Oct-Mar, 10am-4pm Apr-Sep)
The Antigua Boat Sheds are
the starting point for half-hour punting trips through the
botanical gardens. Relax in a flat-bottomed boat while a strapping
lad in Edwardian clobber, armed with a long pole, does all the
work. Other boats depart from the Worcester St bridge and punt through the ruined city
centre.
Swimming & Surfing
Despite having separate names for different sections, it’s one solid stretch of sandy beach that spreads north from the estuary of the Avon and Heathcliff rivers. Closest to the city centre is New Brighton, with a distinctive pier reaching 300m out to sea and a pedestrian mall lined with phoenix palms. On either side, South New Brighton and North Beach are quieter options, as is Waimairi, further north.
Smaller but prettier Sumner is at the foot of the Port Hills, on the south side of the estuary. With good eateries, accommodation and an art-house cinema, it’s an easy place to visit and a relaxing place to stay, only 12km from the city centre.
Further east around the headland, isolated Taylors Mistake has the cleanest water of any Christchurch beach and some good surfing breaks. Beginners should stick to Sumner or New Brighton.
Walking
The i-SITE has up-to-date information on walks around Christchurch. Some popular tracks, particularly around the Port Hills, were closed at the time of writing due to rock falls and instability following the earthquakes, so it’s vital to check the current situation before setting off (search www.ccc.govt.nz with the keywords ‘Port Hills’).
For great views of the city, take the walkway from the Sign of the Takahe on Dyers Pass Rd. The various ‘Sign of the…’ places in this area were originally roadhouses built during the Depression as rest stops. This walk leads up to the Sign of the Kiwi through Victoria Park and then along Summit Rd to Scotts Reserve, with several lookout points along the way.
You can walk to Lyttelton on the Bridle Path (1½ hours), which starts at Heathcote Valley (take bus 28). The Godley Head Walkway (two hours return) begins at Taylors Mistake, crossing and recrossing Summit Rd, and offers beautiful views on a clear day.
Cycling
Christchurch has more cyclists than any other NZ city, due to its flatness and over 330km of on- and off-road cycleways. These are detailed on the city council’s website (www.ccc.govt.nz), which also has updates on the current status of mountain-bike tracks through the Port Hills.
The 49km Little River Railtrail (www.littleriverrailtrail.co.nz) links the Christchurch suburb of Hornby to the Banks Peninsula hamlet of Little River. A couple of small sections traverse roads without cycle lanes, although this is only temporary. Join the trail 20km from Little River at Motukarara for the best of the ride.
City Cycle Hire BICYCLE RENTAL
(
03-377 5952; www.cyclehire-tours.co.nz; bike
half-/full day $25/35, mountain bike half-/full day $30/45)
Offers door-to-door delivery of on- and off-road city bikes and
touring bikes. They’ll also meet you with a bike at the top of the
gondola if you fancy a 16km descent ($70 including gondola ride; 1½
hours).
(
03-982 2966; www.naturalhigh.co.nz; 690a Harewood Rd,
Harewood; per day/week from $50/175) Rents touring and
mountain bikes, and can assist with guided and self-guided bicycle
touring through Canterbury and the South Island.
Vintage Peddler Bike Hire Co BICYCLE RENTAL
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-365 6530; www.thevintagepeddler.co.nz; 16 Bealey
Ave; per hour/day $15/30) Take to two retro wheels on these
funky vintage bicycles. Helmets, locks and local knowledge are all
supplied.
WELCOME ABOARD COMBOS
Welcome Aboard (
03-365 8282; www.welcomeaboard.co.nz) is the
company that runs the punting, tram, gondola and Botanic Garden
caterpillar tours, as well as Thrillseekers Adventures in Hanmer
Springs. A baffling array of combo tickets is available which will
save you some money if you’re considering doing more than one
activity. It also operates the six-hour Grand Tour (adult/child
$119/69), which includes all four Christchurch-based activities and
a stop in Sumner.
Other Activities
OFFLINE MAP(www.gondola.co.nz; 10 Bridle Path Rd;
return adult/child $25/12; 10am-5pm) Take a ride to the top of Mt
Cavendish (500m) on this 945m cable car for wonderful views over
the city, Lyttelton, Banks Peninsula and the Canterbury Plains. At
the top there’s a cafe and the child-focused Time Tunnel
ride through historical scenes. You can also walk to Cavendish
Bluff Lookout (30 minutes return) or the Pioneer Women’s Memorial
(one hour return).
(
03-377 4790; www.tram.co.nz; adult/child
$10/free) Prior to the earthquakes, historic trams operated
on a 2.5km inner-city loop. Limited services resumed in late 2013,
heading between New Regent St and Canterbury Museum (35 minutes),
but the route will expand as the rebuild continues.
(
03-385 4509; www.thebonedude.co.nz; 153 Marshland Rd,
Shirley; from $60; 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Creative types
should consider booking a session with the Bone Dude, who’ll show
you how to carve your own bone pendant (allow three hours).
Sessions are limited to eight participants, so book ahead.
Garden City Helicopters SCENIC FLIGHT
(
03-358 4360; www.helicopters.net.nz; 20min
$199) Flights above the city and Lyttelton let you observe
the impact of the earthquake and the rebuilding efforts.
Tours
(
0800 372 879; www.discoverytravel.co.nz; tours from
$130) Excursions to Akaroa, Aoraki/Mt Cook, Hanmer Springs,
Kaikoura and the Waipara Valley wine region. The Arthur’s Pass tour
(adult/child $355/178) packs the TranzAlpine train,
jetboating and a farm tour into one action-packed day.
(
03-385 5775; www.hasslefree.co.nz) Explore
Christchurch on an open-top double-decker bus (adult/child $29/15).
Regional options include a 4WD alpine safari, jetboating on the
Waimakariri River, and visiting the location of Edoras from the
Lord of the Rings trilogy.
(
0800 500 929; www.redbus.co.nz; adult/child
$29/15) Commentaries focus on the past, present and future
of earthquake-damaged sites in the city centre. Tours take 90
minutes and include video footage of the former streetscape.
Christchurch Sightseeing Tours BUS TOUR
(
0508 669 660; www.christchurchtours.co.nz; tours from
$75) City tours, plus further-afield detours to Akaroa,
Hanmer Springs and the Waipara wine region.
Christchurch Bike Tours CYCLING
(
0800 733 257; www.chchbiketours.co.nz; 2/4hr
$50/160) Informative, two-hour tours loop around the city
daily, heading to the Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. Also
available is a four-hour gourmet food tour ending with a
three-course lunch. Tours leave from the Antigua Boat Sheds.
Christchurch Segway Tours CYCLING
(
027 542 1887; www.urbanwheels.co.nz; per person
$190) Two-hour two-wheeled guided tours through the city
centre, Hagley Park and Riccarton.
(
09-281 4481; www.hikingguys.co.nz; adult/child
$445/223) Day trips incorporating the TranzAlpine
train and tramping around Arthur’s Pass. Multiday trips also
available.
Christchurch
Personal
Guiding Service WALKING TOUR
(
03-383 2495; Rolleston
Ave; tours $15; 1pm daily) Nonprofit organisation offering
informative two-hour city walks. Buy tickets and join tours at the
i-SITE or at the red-and-black kiosk nearby.
South Pacific Motorcycle Tours DRIVING TOUR
(
03-312 0066; www.motorbiketours.co.nz)
Jump on a hog for a fully
guided or self-guided multiday road trip.
Festivals & Events
Check www.bethere.co.nz for a comprehensive listing of festivals and events.
(www.summertimes.co.nz) Say g’day to summer at a huge array of outdoor events between December and March.
World Buskers Festival PERFORMING ARTS
(www.worldbuskersfestival.com) National and international talent entertain passers-by for 10 days in mid-January. Check the website for locations – and don’t forget to put money in the hat.
(www.festivalofflowers.co.nz) A blooming spectacle around Christchurch’s heritage gardens for three weeks in February.
(www.ellerslieflowershow.co.nz) Hagley Park comes alive in late February/early March with NZ’s biggest flower show.
Christchurch Arts Festival PERFORMING ARTS
(www.artsfestival.co.nz) Midwinter arts extravaganza over a month from mid-August, celebrating music, theatre and dance.
(www.festa.org.nz) The spotlight is shone on Christchurch’s post-earthquake ‘transitional architecture’ over Labour Weekend in October.
NZ Cup & Show Week HORSE RACING
(www.nzcupandshow.co.nz) Includes the NZ Cup horse race, fashion shows, fireworks and the centrepiece A&P Show, where the country comes to town. Held over a week in November.
CHRISTCHURCH FOR CHILDREN
There’s no shortage of kid-friendly sights and activities in Christchurch. If family fun is a priority, consider planning your travels around NZ’s biggest children’s festival, KidsFest (www.kidsfest.org.nz). It’s held every July and is chock-full of shows, workshops and parties. The annual World Buskers Festival (Click here) is also bound to be a hit.
For picnics and open-air frolicking, visit the Botanic Gardens (Click here); there’s a playground beside the cafe, and little kids will love riding on the Caterpillar train. Extend your nature-based experience with a wildlife encounter at Orana Wildlife Park (Click here) or the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve (Click here), or get them burning off energy in a rowboat or kayak from the Antigua Boatsheds (Click here). Fun can be stealthily combined with education at the International Antarctic Centre (Click here) and the Discovery Centre at Canterbury Museum (Click here).
If the weather’s good, hit the beaches at Sumner or New Brighton.
Sleeping
City Centre
Chester Street Backpackers HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-377 1897; www.chesterst.co.nz; 148 Chester St E;
dm/tw/d $32/68/70; 
) This relaxed wooden villa is painted in
bright colours and has a large library in the sunny front room. The
friendly house cat is a regular guest at hostel barbecues. It’s
popular; book ahead.
(
03-366 8268; www.dorsethouse.co.nz; 1 Dorset St; dm/s
$39/90, d $105-110; 
) Built in 1871, this wooden
villa has a sunny deck, a large regal lounge with a log fire, a
pool table, and beds instead of bunks. It’s a short stroll to
Hagley Park.
Around the World Backpackers HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-365 4363; www.aroundtheworld.co.nz; 314 Barbadoes
St; dm $30, d $76-80;
) We love AtW’s friendly vibe,
Kiwiana decor and sunny back garden (complete with hammocks and a
barbecue). Ask about the ‘Love Shack’ if you’re visiting with the
closest of travelling companions.
(
03-366 9720; www.backpack.co.nz/foley.html; 208
Kilmore St; dm $30-33, d with/without bathroom $78/72;
) Sheltered by well-established trees,
Foley Towers provides well-maintained rooms encircling quiet
garden-trimmed courtyards. Dorms sleep six in three sets of bunks,
or there are share rooms containing three single beds.
(
03-379 9677; www.vagabondhostel.co.nz; 232 Worcester
St; dm $26-30, s $53, d $60-70; ) This old place is
reminiscent of a big shared house. There’s an appealing garden, and
the grungy ambience is matched with prices that are cheaper than
most.
(
03-374 3532; www.pomeroysonkilmore.co.nz; 282 Kilmore
St; r $145-195; ) Even if this cute wooden cottage wasn’t
the sister and neighbour of Christchurch’s best craft-beer pub, it
would still be one of our favourites. Three of the five elegantly
furnished rooms open on to a sunny garden and rates include a
self-serve continental breakfast.
(
03-943 0800; www.focusmotel.com; 344 Durham St N; r
$150-200; ) Sleek and centrally located, this
friendly motel offers studio and one-bedroom units with big-screen
TVs, iPod docks, kitchenettes and super-modern decor. There’s a
guest barbecue and laundry, and pillowtop chocolates sweeten the
deal.
CentrePoint on Colombo MOTEL $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-377 0859; www.centrepointoncolombo.co.nz; 859
Colombo St; r/apt from $165/190;
) The friendly Kiwi-Japanese
management have imbued this centrally located motel with style and
comfort. Little extras like stereos, blackout curtains and spa
baths (in the deluxe rooms) take it to the next level.
(
03-366 8775; www.motelcolombo.co.nz; 863 Colombo St;
d $170-190, apt $190-290;
) Colombo’s attractive units
are equipped with Sky TV, CD players, double-glazed windows and spa
baths. Options range from studios to two-bedroom apartments.
Heritage Christchurch HOTEL $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-983 4800; www.heritagehotels.co.nz; 28-30
Cathedral Sq; ste $235-440; ) Standing grandly on Cathedral
Sq while all around is in ruins, the 1909 Old Government Building
owes its survival to a thorough strengthening when it was converted
to a hotel in the 1990s. After a three-year post-earthquake
restoration its spacious suites are more elegant than ever. All
have full kitchens.
(
03-365 6569; www.orari.co.nz; 42 Gloucester St; s
$175-235, d $195-255; ) Orari is an 1893 home that has been
simply updated with light-filled, pastel-toned rooms and inviting
guest areas, as well as a lovely front garden. A neighbouring
block, constructed in a sympathetic style, contains five
three-bedroom apartments.
(
03-379 4560; www.thegeorge.com; 50 Park Tce; r
$295-315, ste $472-630;
) The George has 53 handsomely
decorated rooms within a 1970s-looking building on the fringe of
Hagley Park. Discreet staff attend to every whim, and ritzy
features include huge TVs, luxury toiletries and glossy
magazines.
(
03-377 7905; www.theclassicvilla.co.nz; 17 Worcester
Blvd; s $179, d $289-389, ste $489;
) Pretty in pink, this 1899
house is one of Christchurch’s most elegant accommodation options.
Rooms are trimmed with antiques and Turkish rugs, and the
Mediterranean-style breakfast is a shared social occasion.
(
03-366 8584; www.elizas.co.nz; 82 Bealey Ave; r
$235-345; ) An infestation of teddy bears
has done little to dint the heritage appeal of this large 1861
mansion. Wisteria curls around weatherboards, while inside the
rooms are spacious and frilly.
Merivale
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(
03-355 7731; www.merivalemanor.co.nz; 122 Papanui Rd;
d $145-180; ) A gracious 19th-century Victorian mansion
is the hub of this elegant motel, with units both in the main house
and in the more typically motel-style blocks lining the drive.
Accommodation ranges from studios to two-bedroom apartments.
(
03-355 9731; www.elmtreehouse.co.nz; 236 Papanui Rd;
r/ste $265/295; ) Built in the 1920s, elegant Elm Tree
House has six stylish rooms and suites, a dining area leading to
sunny rose gardens, and a spacious, wood-lined guests’ lounge with
a working Wurlitzer jukebox.
Fendalton
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-343 4260; www.anselmhouse.co.nz; 34 Kahu Rd; r
$190; ) When we visited, post-earthquake repairs
were continuing on this architecturally interesting home, but
guests were still able to stay in the blissful ‘river room’, gazing
over the gurgling Avon. Hopefully the ‘rococo room’ will be back
up-and-running during the lifetime of this book.
(
03-343 1661; www.fendaltonhouse.co.nz; 28a Kotare St;
r $165; ) There’s only one guest room available at
this friendly, homestay-style B&B amid the pleasant streets of
leafy Fendalton. Rates include a cooked breakfast and free
wi-fi.
Riccarton
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(
03-348 8074; www.lorenzomotorlodge.co.nz; 36
Riccarton Rd; units $159-239; ) There’s a Mediterranean vibe to this trim
two-storey motel – the best of many on the busy Riccarton Rd strip.
Units range from studio to two-bedroom apartments and some have spa
baths and little balconies.
(
03-341 2100; www.romaonriccarton.com; 38 Riccarton
Rd; d $158-230; ) It may be the mirror image of
neighbouring Lorenzo, but they’re completely separate businesses.
Like its twin, the units are all thoroughly modern, ranging from
studios to two-bedroom apartments.
Addington
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(
03-982 7777; www.jail.co.nz; 338 Lincoln Rd; dm
$32-35, tw/d $89/92; ) From 1874 to 1999 this was Addington
Prison; it’s now one of Christchurch’s most appealing and friendly
hostels. Private rooms are a bit on the small side – they don’t
call them cells for nothing.
(
03-338 4579; www.arenamotel.co.nz; 30 Whiteleigh Ave;
d $135-185; ) Within walking distance of the railway
station and the increasingly hip Addington strip, the Arena has
tidy modern units with kitchenettes, ranging in size from studios
to two-bedroom apartments.
Sumner
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-326 6675; www.lepetithotel.co.nz; 16 Marriner St;
d $155;
) Relaxed coffee-and-croissant
breakfasts, friendly owners and the close proximity to Sumner beach
and some of Christchurch’s best restaurants make this a definite
‘oui’ from us. Get in early and request an upstairs room
with a view.
(
03-326 5969; www.sumnermotel.co.nz; 26 Marriner St; d
$159-185; ) The studio, one- and two-bedroom units at
this striking, contemporary complex all have either balconies or
courtyards, plus quality furnishings and Sky TV. Two-bedroom units
contain full kitchens; the rest have kitchenettes.
Other Suburbs
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-980 4252; www.hakalodge.com; 518 Linwood Ave,
Woolston; dm/d/apt $32/79/170; ) Sprawled across three floors of a modern
suburban house, Haka Lodge is one of Christchurch’s newest hostels.
Rooms are spotless and colourful, and end-of-day treats include a
comfy lounge and bird-filled garden.
(
03-381 5504; www.oldcountryhousenz.com; 437
Gloucester St, Linwood; dm $35-37, d with/without bathroom
$102/92;
) Spread between three separate
villas, 1km east of Latimer Sq, this chilled-out hostel has
handmade wooden furniture, a reading lounge and a lovely garden
filled with native ferns. A spa pool and sauna heat things up.
Christchurch Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP(
03-352 9176; www.christchurchtop10.co.nz; 39 Meadow
St, Papanui; sites $39-50, unit with/without bathroom from
$94/76; 
) It could do with some
freshening up, but this is the best of Christchurch’s holiday
parks. Accommodation ranges from sites to simple cabins and motel
units, and there’s an indoor pool, games rooms and a playground for
the kids.
(
03-358 7093; www.airportgateway.co.nz; 45 Roydvale
Ave, Burnside; d $155-195; ) Handy for those
early flights, this large motel has a variety of rooms with good
facilities. A 24-hour airport transfer is available at no extra
charge. The newer block is very comfortable and good value.
Eating
Following the February 2011 earthquake, many restaurants were forced to abandon their damaged buildings and move to the suburbs. As a result you’ll find some real treats lurking in unlikely blocks of neighbourhood shops. Key dining precincts are Victoria St (to the northwest of the City Centre), Addington, Riccarton, Merivale and the beachside suburb of Sumner.
City Centre
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.c1espresso.co.nz; 185 High St; mains
$10-19; 7am-10pm; ) Resurrected from the rubble,
C1 has reopened better than ever in a grand former post office that
somehow escaped the cataclysm. Recycled materials fill the interior
(Victorian oak panelling, bulbous 1970s light fixtures) and tables
spill onto a little square. The food, coffee and service are
excellent too.
(www.blackbetty.co.nz; 163 Madras St;
mains $10-20; 8am-4pm; ) Infused with aromas from Switch
Espresso’s roasting operation, Black Betty’s industrial-chic
warehouse is a popular destination for students from nearby CPIT.
Attractions include all-day breakfasts, excellent counter food and
the best of NZ wine and craft beers.
(www.vics.co.nz; 132 Victoria St; mains
$11-18; 7.30am-4.30pm) Pop in for a robust
breakfast on the big shared tables or linger over lunch on the
front terrace. Otherwise grab baked goodies and still-warm artisan
bread for a DIY riverside picnic.
Canterbury Cheesemongers DELI $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.cheesemongers.co.nz; rear, 301
Montreal St; sandwiches $5-8; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat) Pop in to buy artisan
cheeses, or craft your own sandwich by combining freshly baked
sourdough bread and ciabatta with a whole cheese shop of dairy
goodies. Coffee and juices complete a good-value lunch.
(324 Barbadoes
St; mains $10-19; 7am-5pm Sun-Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat; 
) Welcome to the grungy hub of
Christchurch cafe-cool. Free range this and organic that combine
with terrific eggy breakfasts, gourmet pies and robust coffee. Look
out for open mic music and poetry nights.
(www.cafedose.co.nz; 77 Tuam St; mains
$7-19; 7.30am-4pm Mon & Tue, to late Wed-Sat)
Excellent coffee and superior counter food combine here with
toasted bagels and what may just be Christchurch’s best eggs
Benedict. In the evenings Dose morphs into an izakaya bar
with tasty grilled skewers and ice-cold Japanese beer.
(
03-365 7363; www.kingofsnake.co.nz; 145 Victoria St;
mains $24-37; 11am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10pm daily) Dark
wood, gold tiles and purple skull-patterned wallpaper fill this
so-hip-right-now restaurant and cocktail bar with just the right
amount of sinister opulence. The adventurous menu gainfully
plunders the cuisines of Asia – from India to Korea – to delicious,
if pricey, effect.
Fiddlesticks RESTAURANT, BAR $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-365 0533; www.fiddlesticksbar.co.nz; 48 Worcester
Blvd; mains $20-40; 9am-late) Sidle into slick Fiddlesticks and
seat yourself in either the more formal dining room or in the
glassed-in patio attached to the curvy cocktail bar. Food ranges
from soups and beautifully presented salads to fancy meat pies and
Angus steaks.
(www.thelotusheart.co.nz; 363 St Asaph
St; mains $13-22; 7.30am-3pm Tue-Sun & 5-9pm Fri &
Sat; ) Run by students of Sri
Chimnoy, this vegetarian eatery serves curry, pizza, wraps, freshly
squeezed organic juices and filled pita pockets. Organic, vegan and
gluten-free options abound, and there’s an interesting gift shop
onsite.
(
03-371 0250; www.thegeorge.com; 50 Park Tce;
breakfast $17-22, lunch $20-24, dinner $20-37;
6.30am-late;
) The more casual restaurant at
the George is a bustling affair, serving savvy local twists on
classic bistro flavours. Try the Nifty 50 lunch menu – $29 for soup
and a main dish.
(
03-377 8935; www.himalayas.co.nz; 830a Colombo St;
lunch $9-14, dinner $18-24; 11.30am-2pm Tue-Fri & 5pm-late Tue-Sun;
) Himalayas’ stylish
dining room showcases lots of subcontinental favourites, including
vegetarian options like the creamy dal makhani (black
lentils cooked with aromatic spices). The kadhai chicken
is studded with chilli, ginger and coriander – perfect with a cold
beer.
(
03-379 4006; www.saggiodivino.co.nz; 179 Victoria St;
mains $35-42; 5-10pm) Despite the Italian name, the menu
has a heavy French accent at this elegant restaurant, which is
quite possibly Christchurch’s best. Expect delicious takes on
terrine, duck confit and Café de Paris steak, and a
well-laden cheese trolley to finish you off.
Addington
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.addingtoncoffee.org.nz; 297 Lincoln
Rd; mains $6-19; 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun;
) One of Christchurch’s biggest and most
bustling cafes is also one of its best. A compact stall selling
organic cotton T-shirts jostles for attention with delicious cakes,
gourmet pies and the legendary house breakfasts. An onsite
laundromat completes the deal for busy travellers.
(www.facebook.com/LucianoEspresso; 76
Moorhouse Ave; mains $10-21; 7am-4.30pm) ‘Christchurch’s best coffee’ is
the claim, and we’re not about to argue. Order from the interesting
selections on the menu or peruse the drool-inducing items on the
counter. Slick decor distracts from the incessant traffic
outside.
(www.simos.co.nz; 300 Lincoln Rd; tapas
& mains $8-19; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) This deli-cafe is popular
for its takeaway bocadillos (grilled wraps filled with a
huge selection of Middle Eastern and African-inspired fillings,
sauces and toppings). Other tasty offerings include sauteed
calamari, spicy merguez sausages and tagines.
(
03-943 2144; www.edesia.co.nz; 12 Show Pl; lunch
$25-29, dinner $38-43; 11.30am-3pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-3pm Thu & Fri,
8.30am-1pm Sat, 5.30-10pm daily) Ignore the office-park
location; Edesia’s version of fine dining is worth seeking out. The
dinner menu includes innovative spins on local venison and lamb,
while lunch includes pasta and salads. After work it morphs into a
cosy bar for local desk jockeys.
Woolston
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-389 5544; www.gustavs.co.nz; The Tannery, Garlands
Rd, Woolston; tapas $10-14, mains $28-33;
11am-late) Hexagonal oak tables
and vintage wallpaper add a touch of Edwardian class, while live
jazz and the clatter of diners sharing dishes creates a convivial
hubbub. Local meat and seafood features prominently, although the
flavours are international.
(www.holysmoke.co.nz; 650 Ferry Rd,
Woolston; mains $12-19; 7am-4.30pm Tue-Sat) Here’s your chance to
get acquainted with the unique character of manuka (NZ tea
tree). At this friendly deli-cafe it’s used to smoke everything
from bacon to salmon, which then make their way into cooked
breakfasts and counter food.
Sumner
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-326 6720; www.cornershopbistro.co.nz; 32 Nayland
St, Sumner; lunch $17-21, dinner $27-35;
10am-3pm Fri-Sun, 5.30-10pm
Wed-Sun) Classic dishes such as coq au vin are
expertly executed at this superior French-style bistro which never
forgets it’s in a relaxed beachside suburb. Spend longer than you
planned to linger over brunch.
(
03-326 7878; www.facebook.com/bamboozlerestaurant; 6
Wakefield St; mains $18-29; 5-10pm Tue-Sat) Asian fusion is the name of
the game at stylish Bamboozle, where talented chefs conjure up
innovative spins on traditional dishes. Leave room for one of
Christchurch’s best crème brûlées.
Other Suburbs
Christchurch Farmers’ Market MARKET $
OFFLINE MAP(www.christchurchfarmersmarket.co.nz; 16
Kahu Rd, Riccarton; 9am-noon Sat) Held in the pretty grounds of
Riccarton House, this excellent farmers market offers a tasty array
of organic fruit and vegies, South Island cheeses and salmon, local
craft beer and ethnic treats.
(
03-359 4697; www.kinjirestaurant.com; 279b Greers Rd,
Bishopdale; mains $16-18; 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat) The destruction of its
central city premises sparked a move to a tucked-away suburban site
for this acclaimed Japanese restaurant. Fortunately its loyal
clientele has followed, making bookings essential. Tuck into the
likes of sashimi and ginger squid but save room for the green-tea
tiramisu, a surprising highlight.
Under the Red Verandah CAFE $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.utrv.co.nz; cnr Tancred &
Worcester Sts, Linwood; mains $10-20;
7.30am-4pm;
) A post-earthquake change of
premises has done nothing to dint UTRV’s popularity with
Christchurch foodie types. Take a seat under said verandah and tuck
into baked goodies, oaty pancakes and corn fritters.
(
03-377 6808; www.bodhitree.co.nz; 399 Ilam Rd,
Bryndwr; dishes $13-18; 6-10pm Tue-Sat; ) Bodhi Tree has been wowing locals with
the subtle flavours of Burmese cuisine for more than a decade. The
starter-sized dishes feature exceptionally fresh ingredients and
are designed to be shared. Standouts include le pet thoke
(pickled tea-leaf salad) and ciandi thoke (grilled
eggplant).
Burgers & Beers Inc BURGERS $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.burgersandbeersinc.co.nz; 355
Colombo St, Sydenham; burgers $13-18;
11am-late) Quirkily named
gourmet burgers – try the Woolly Sahara Sand Hopper
(Moroccan-spiced lamb with lemon yoghurt) or the Shagged Stag
(venison with tamarillo and plum chutney) – and an ever-changing
selection of Kiwi craft beers give you reason to head south.
Drinking & Nightlife
City Centre
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.pomspub.co.nz; 292 Kilmore
St; 3-11pm Tue-Thu, noon-11pm Fri-Sun)
Welcoming Pomeroy’s is the city’s hoppy hub for fans of NZ’s
rapidly expanding craft-beer scene. A wide range of guest taps
showcase brews from around the country. There’s regular live music,
and the attached Victoria’s Kitchen does great pub food (mains $22
to $26).
(www.carltonbar.co.nz; 1 Papanui Rd,
Merivale; 11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat) The
rebuilt Carlton’s ultramodern look includes old planning maps
plastered to the walls and visual references to the shipping
containers out of which it operated when the historic Carlton pub
collapsed. The upstairs deck is a prime spot on a sunny
afternoon.
(www.revivalbar.co.nz; 94 Victoria
St; 4-9pm Mon & Tue, to midnight Wed, to 3am
Thu-Sun)
Revival is the hippest of Christchurch’s container bars, with
regular DJs and a funky lounge area dotted with a quirky collection
of automotive rear ends and vintage steamer trunks.
Tequila Mockingbird BAR, RESTAURANT
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.tequilamockingbird.co.nz; 98
Victoria St; shared plates $8-24; 11.30am-late Mon-Fri, 5pm-late Sat &
Sun) If the awesome name’s not enough to lure you through
the door of this upmarket Latin bar-restaurant, then perhaps the
Caribbean-inflected cocktails, nifty decor and late-night DJs
will. The food’s excellent too.
(www.themondayroom.co.nz; 367 Moorhouse
Ave; 8am-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun)
Part cafe, part restaurant and part wine bar, the versatile Monday
Room is the kind of place to hang out at any time. Occupying a
restored heritage building, the funky interior is a background for
interesting brunch and lunch options; later in the day, tapas,
craft beers, cocktails and live musicians take centre stage.
Suburbs
OFFLINE
MAP
(www.casselsbrewery.co.nz; 3 Garlands Rd,
Woolston; 7am-late) An essential destination for
beer-loving travellers, the Cassels & Sons brewery crafts its
beer using a wood-fired brew kettle, resulting in big, bold beers.
Tasting trays are available for the curious and the indecisive,
live bands perform most nights, and the food – including wood-fired
pizzas – is top-notch, too.
(www.volstead.co.nz; 55 Riccarton Rd,
Riccarton; 4-11pm Mon-Sat) Comfy old sofas from your
last student flat combine with quirky murals and interesting craft
beers in this very cool shabby-chic bar. If you’re peckish, dig
into popcorn, nachos and toasted sandwiches.
Entertainment
For live music and club listings, see www.christchurchmusic.org.nz or www.mukuna.co.nz. Also look out for the Groove Guide magazine in cafes.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-963 0870; www.courttheatre.org.nz; Bernard St,
Addington) Christchurch’s original Court Theatre was an
integral part of the city’s Arts Centre but was forced to relocate
to this warehouse after the earthquakes. The new premises are much
more spacious; it’s a great venue to see popular international
plays and works by NZ playwrights.
(www.duxlive.co.nz; 363 Lincoln Rd, Addington) One of the kingpins of the live-music scene, this intimate 250-capacity space has gigs most nights.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.facebook.com/darkroom.nz; 336 St
Asaph St; 5pm-late Wed-Sun) A hip combination of
live-music venue and bar, darkroom has lots of Kiwi beers and great
cocktails. Live gigs are frequent – and frequently free.
(Rugby League Park; ; www.crfu.co.nz; 95 Jack Hinton Dr, Addington) Following the destruction of AMI Stadium at Lancaster Park, the traditional home of rugby union and cricket in Christchurch, the Canterbury Rugby Union have shifted its home games to Rugby League Park (confusingly now also known as AMI Stadium due to sponsorship rights). The Crusaders play here from late February to July in the Super Rugby tournament, while from July to September, Canterbury plays in NZ’s domestic rugby championship.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-365 0615; www.aliceinvideoland.co.nz; 209 Tuam St;
adult/child $16/12) There are only 38 seats at this
Egyptian-themed art-house cinema, attached to the excellent Alice
in Videoland specialty video and DVD store.
(www.hollywoodcinema.co.nz; 28 Marriner St; adult/child $16/10) Mainly art-house and foreign-language flicks in the seaside suburb of Sumner.
OFFLINE MAP(www.hoyts.co.nz; Westfield Riccarton, Riccarton Rd; adult/child $16.50/11.50) Hollywood blockbusters screen at Christchurch’s most central multiplex.
Shopping
City Centre
OFFLINE
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.restart.org.nz; Cashel Mall;
10am-5pm;
) This colourful labyrinth of
shops based in shipping containers was the first retail activity in
the Christchurch CBD after the earthquakes. With a couple of decent
cafes and a good selection of stores, it’s a pleasant place to
stroll. Note that Re:START is only intended to be temporary, so it
may disappear at any time.
(www.ballantynes.com; cnr Colombo &
Cashel Sts; 9am-5pm) A venerable Christchurch
department store selling men’s and women’s fashions, cosmetics,
travel goods and specialty NZ gifts. Fashionistas should check out
the Contemporary Lounge upstairs.
(www.newregentstreet.co.nz) A forerunner to the modern mall, this pretty little stretch of pastel Spanish Mission–style shops was described as NZ’s most beautiful street when it was completed in 1932. Fully restored post-earthquake, it’s once again a pleasant place to stroll and peruse the tiny galleries, gift shops and cafes.
Suburbs
OFFLINE
MAP
(www.thetannery.co.nz; 3 Garlands Rd,
Woolston; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) In a city
mourning the loss of its heritage, this post-earthquake conversion
of a Victorian tannery couldn’t be more welcome. The 19th-century
industrial buildings have been zhooshed up with period-style tiles,
wrought iron and stained glass, and filled with boutique stores
selling everything from books to fashion to surfboards. Bored
partners of frenzied shoppers can slink off for a drink in The
Brewery or Gustav’s (Click
here). Alice in Videoland is planning to open two cinemas
here.
(www.westfield.co.nz; Riccarton Rd,
Riccarton; 9am-6pm Sat-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri)
Since the earthquakes, shopping in Christchurch has largely been
focused on the city’s suburban malls. The most convenient for
visitors is this megamall, west of the city centre. As well as a
huge selection of fashion, homeware and entertainment outlets,
there’s a cinema multiplex, a supermarket and 22 food outlets.
(16 Kahu Rd,
Riccarton; 11am-2pm Sun) Held in the leafy grounds of
Riccarton House, this small market combines local arts-and-crafts
vendors with gourmet food stalls and live music.
Information
Media
Cityscape (www.cityscape-christchurch.co.nz) Quarterly entertainment and events magazine available in inner-city cafes and retailers. Check the website for updates on new openings around town.
The Press (www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/) Christchurch’s newspaper, published Monday to Saturday. Friday’s edition has entertainment listings.
Medical Services
24 Hour Surgery
( 03-365 7777; www.24hoursurgery.co.nz; cnr Bealey Ave
& Colombo St) No appointment necessary.
Christchurch
Hospital (
03-364 0640, emergency dept 03-364
0270; www.cdhb.govt.nz; 2 Riccarton
Ave) Has a 24-hour emergency department.
Urgent Pharmacy
( 03-366 4439; cnr Bealey Ave & Colombo
St; 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun)
Located beside the 24 Hour Surgery.
Tourist Information
Airport i-SITE
( 03-353 7774; www.christchurchnz.com;
7.30am-7pm)
Christchurch
i-SITE (
03-379 9629; www.christchurchnz.com; Botanic Gardens,
Rolleston Ave; 8.30am-5pm, extended in summer)
DOC (Department of Conservation; ;
03-379 4082; www.doc.govt.nz; Botanic Gardens
Information Centre, Armagh St; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Information on South Island national parks and walks.
Visitor Kiosk
(Cathedral Sq;
9.30am-5pm)
Useful Websites
CERA (www.cera.govt.nz) The Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority has the lowdown on rebuild plans and status updates.
Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism (www.christchurchnz.com) Official tourism website for the city and region.
Christchurch City Council (www.christchurch.org.nz) The city council’s official website.
Neat Places (www.neatplaces.co.nz) A local blogger’s authoritative view of the best of Christchurch’s shopping, eating and drinking.
Getting There & Away
Air
Christchurch Airport (CHC; 03-358 5029; www.christchurchairport.co.nz; Durey
Rd) is the South Island’s main international gateway (see
the transport chapter for international flights). The newly
modernised and expanded airport has excellent facilities, including
baggage storage, hire-car counters, ATMs, foreign-exchange offices
and an i-SITE visitor information centre.
The following are the domestic airlines flying from Christchurch and the destinations that they serve:
Air New Zealand
( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Air New
Zealand–operated flights head to/from Auckland, Wellington,
Dunedin and Queenstown. Code-share flights with smaller regional
airlines head to/from Blenheim, Hamilton, Hokitika, Invercargill,
Napier, Nelson, New Plymouth, Palmerston North, Paraparaumu,
Rotorua and Tauranga.
Jetstar
( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) Flies to/from
Auckland, Wellington and Queenstown.
Bus
The following services stop outside the Canterbury Museum on Rolleston St, unless otherwise stated. Enquire at the i-SITE about seasonal ski shuttles.
Akaroa French
Connection (
0800 800 575; www.akaroabus.co.nz; one way/return
$25/45) Daily service to Akaroa.
Akaroa Shuttle
( 0800 500 929; www.akaroashuttle.co.nz; one way/return
$35/50) Heads to Akaroa daily, increasing to twice daily
from November to April.
Atomic Shuttles
( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz)
Destinations include Picton ($35, 5¼ hours), Greymouth ($45, 3¾
hours), Timaru ($25, 2½ hours), Dunedin ($30 to $35, 5¾ hours) and
Queenstown ($50, seven hours).
Budget Buses &
Shuttles (
03-615 5119; www.budgetshuttles.co.nz;
Mon-Sat) Offers a
door-to-door shuttle to Geraldine ($57) and Timaru ($47), along
with cheaper scheduled runs (from $27).
Hanmer
Connection (
0800 242 663; www.hanmerconnection.co.nz; one
way/return $30/50) Daily bus to/from Hanmer Springs via
Amberley and Waipara.
InterCity
( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) The most
reliable of the coach services, with the most extensive network.
The main bus stop is on Armagh St, between New Regent and
Manchester Sts. Coaches head to Picton (from $26, 5¼ hours), Timaru
(from $28, 2½ hours), Dunedin (from $40, six hours) and Queenstown
(from $55, eight to 11 hours) twice daily; and to Te Anau (from
$61, 10¾ hours) daily.
Knightrider
( 03-342 8055; www.knightrider.co.nz) Has a bus
departing from 118 Bealey Ave most evenings, heading to Timaru
($38, three hours), Oamaru ($43, four hours), Moeraki ($47, five
hours) and Dunedin ($50, six hours).
Naked Bus
(www.nakedbus.com; prices vary;
) Destinations
include Picton (4½ to 5¾ hours), Kaikoura (1½ hours), Dunedin (six
hours), Wanaka (7½ hours) and Queenstown (eight hours).
West Coast
Shuttle (
03-768 0028; www.westcoastshuttle.co.nz) Buses
stop outside Central Station on Tuam St, heading to/from
Springfield ($30, 1¼ hours), Arthur’s Pass ($40, 2¾ hours) and
Greymouth ($53, four hours).
Train
Christchurch railway station ( 03-341 2588; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz; Troup Dr,
Addington; ticket office 6.30am-3pm) is the terminus
for two highly scenic train journeys. At the time of writing there
was a free shuttle from city-centre accommodation to the station,
although this may not continue; enquire at the i-SITE or ask your
accommodation provider.
The Coastal Pacific runs daily from October to April departing from Christchurch at 7am and arriving at Picton at 12.13pm ($79 to $159). Other stops include Waipara ($59, 56 minutes), Kaikoura ($49 to $69, three hours) and Blenheim ($79 to $159, 4¾ hours). It then departs Picton at 1pm, returning to Christchurch at 6.21pm.
The TranzAlpine is widely considered one of the best train journeys in the world. It operates year-round with a daily train between Christchurch and Greymouth ($99 to $198, 4½ hours) via Springfield ($89, one hour), Arthur’s Pass ($89, 2½ hours) and Lake Brunner ($99 to $198, 3½ hours).
Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Christchurch Airport is only 10km from the city centre but a taxi between the two can cost a hefty $45 to $65. Alternatively, the airport is well served by public buses (www.metroinfo.co.nz). Bus 3 heads through Riccarton (25 minutes) to the central bus station (35 minutes) and on to Sumner (70 minutes). Bus 29 heads through Fendalton (10 minutes) to the bus station (30 minutes). Both services cost $8 and run every half-hour from roughly 7am to 11pm.
Shuttle services include the following:
Steve’s Shuttle
( 0800 101 021; www.steveshuttle.co.nz; city centre fare
$18, plus $5 per additional passenger;
3am-6pm)
Super Shuttle
( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; city centre fare
$19, plus $5 for additional passengers;
24hr)
Car & Motorcycle
Hire
Most major car- and campervan-rental companies have offices in Christchurch, as do numerous smaller local companies. Operators with national networks often want cars to be returned from Christchurch to Auckland because most renters travel in the opposite direction, so you may find a cheaper price on a northbound route.
Local options include the following:
Ace Rental Cars
( 03-360 3270; www.acerentalcars.co.nz; 20 Abros Pl,
Burnside)
First Choice
( 03-358 6132; www.firstchoice.co.nz; Christchurch
Airport)
New Zealand Motorcycle
Rentals & Tours (
09-486 2472; www.nzbike.com; 22 Lowther St,
Sockburn) Also leads guided motorbike tours.
Omega Rental
Cars (
03-377 4558; www.omegarentalcars.com; 252 Lichfield
St)
Pegasus Rental
Cars (
03-358 5890; www.rentalcars.co.nz; 578 Wairakei Rd,
Burnside)
Purchase
Scour hostel notice boards and check out
Backpackers Car Market ( 03-377 3177; www.backpackercarschristchurch.co.nz; 33
Battersea St; 9.30am-5pm) , Turners Auctions ( 03-343 9850; www.turners.co.nz; 1 Detroit Pl;
8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm
Sat & Sun) , www.trademe.co.nz and www.autotrader.co.nz.
Public Transport
Christchurch’s Metro (
03-366 8855; www.metroinfo.co.nz) bus network
is inexpensive and efficient. Most buses run from Central Station (46-50 Lichfield St) . Get timetables from
the i-SITE or the station’s information kiosk. Tickets (adult/child
$3.50/1.80) can be purchased on board and include one free transfer
within two hours. Metrocards allow unlimited two-hour/full-day
travel for $2.50/5, but the cards cost $10 and must be loaded up
with a minimum of $10 additional credit.
Taxi
Blue Star
( 03-379 9799; www.bluestartaxis.org.nz)
First Direct
( 0800 505 555; www.firstdirect.net.nz)
Gold Band
( 0800 379 5795; www.goldbandtaxis.co.nz)
Around Christchurch
Lyttelton
Pop 2860
Southeast of Christchurch are the prominent Port Hills, which slope down to the city’s port on Lyttelton Harbour. Christchurch’s first European settlers landed here in 1850 to embark on their historic trek over the hills. Nowadays a 2km road tunnel makes the journey considerably quicker.
Lyttelton was badly damaged during the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes, and many of the town’s heritage buildings along London St were subsequently demolished. However Lyttelton has re-emerged as one of Christchurch’s most interesting communities. The town’s artsy, independent and bohemian vibe is stronger than ever, and it’s once again a hub for good bars, cafes and restaurants. It’s well worth catching the bus from Christchurch and getting immersed in the local scene, especially on a Saturday morning when the market’s buzzing.
From Lyttelton, Black
Cat (
03-384 0621; www.blackcat.co.nz; B Jetty, Lyttelton
Wharf) provide ferries to sheltered Quail Island
(adult/child return $25/13, October to April only), as well as to
sleepy Diamond Harbour (adult/child one way $6.20/3.10).
Eating
Lyttelton Farmers’ Market MARKET $
(www.lyttelton.net.nz; London St;
10am-1pm Sat) Every
Saturday morning, food stalls take the place of cars on Lyttelton’s
main street. As well as being a great place to stock up on produce,
there’s always plenty of baked goods and hot food to snack on. Head
around the corner to the primary school for the concurrent antiques
market.
(www.samo.co.nz; 3 Canterbury St; mains
$9-19; 8am-3.30pm) Following the destruction of
local institution Lyttelton Coffee Company, some of the former
staff set up this ramshackle cafe in a garage around the corner. It
may possibly disappear when LCC is back on its feet in London St,
but until then, this is Lyttelton’s best cafe.
(
03-328 7517; www.freemansdiningroom.co.nz; 47 London
St; breakfast $15-18, lunch $22-25, dinner $22-37;
3pm-late Mon-Fri,
10am-late Sat & Sun) Freemans does fresh pasta,
top-notch pizzas and brews from Christchurch’s Three Boys brewery.
Grab a spot on the deck for great harbour views, and take in Sunday
afternoon jazz concerts from 3pm.
(www.fishermanswharf.net.nz; 39 Norwich
Quay; mains $14-29; 11.30am-8pm Fri-Sun) Part alfresco bar and
part gourmet fish-and-chippie, Fisherman’s Wharf is a top spot for
a cold beer and tasty seafood. Try the fish of the day –
prepared any of four ways – and watch the goings on at the rugged
working port.
Drinking & Nightlife
(www.wunderbar.co.nz; 19 London St, enter
from rear car park; 5pm-2am Mon-Fri, 1pm-3am Sat & Sun)
Wunderbar is a top spot to see NZ’s more interesting acts, from
raucous rock to late-night/early-morning dub. The kooky decor alone
is worth a trip to Lyttelton.
(www.portholebar.co.nz; cnr Canterbury
& London Sts; 11am-1am; ) Porthole is yet another funky reinvention
of the humble shipping container. Local wines and Kiwi craft beers
are served in the buzzy interior, while laid-back Lyttelton folk
chill on the alfresco deck. There’s live music most nights.
Information
Lyttelton Visitor
Information Centre (
03-328 9093; www.lytteltonharbour.info; 20 Oxford
St; 10am-4pm)
Getting There & Away
Buses 28 and 535 run from Christchurch to Lyttelton (adult/child $3.50/1.80, 25 minutes). At the time of writing, the Summit Rd to Christchurch and the road to Sumner were closed.
Governors Bay
Pop 870
From Lyttelton, the harbour road wends west for a scenic 9km to pretty Governors Bay, where there are a couple of good spots for lunch. If you continue on you’ll reach Banks Peninsula via a winding route that’s longer but more scenic than SH75.
Sleeping & Eating
(
03-329 9433; www.governorsbayhotel.co.nz; 52 Main Rd;
d $110-160, mains $18-33; 11am-late; ) Dating from 1870, this is one of NZ’s
oldest still-operating pubs. You couldn’t want for a more inviting
deck to knock back an afternoon tipple on, and the food is
excellent too, covering all of the classic pub-grub bases. Upstairs
is accommodation in chicly renovated rooms with shared
bathrooms.
(
03-329 9825; www.shechocolat.com; 79 Main Rd; mains
$13-20; 10am-4pm) These New Age chocoholics conjure
up excellent food and terrific views. Chocolate has embedded itself
deeply into the menu, infiltrating porridge, kumara cakes and
rice-paper rolls, plus there’s a range of truffles to enjoy with
your coffee.
Banks Peninsula
Pop 3050
Gorgeous Banks Peninsula (Horomaka) was formed by two giant volcanic eruptions about eight million years ago. Harbours and bays radiate out from the peninsula’s centre, giving it an unusual cogwheel shape. The historic town of Akaroa, 80km from Christchurch, is a highlight, as is the absurdly beautiful drive along Summit Rd around the edge of one of the original craters. It’s also worth exploring the little bays that dot the peninsula’s perimeter.
The waters around Banks Peninsula are home to the smallest and one of the rarest dolphin species, the Hector’s dolphin, found only in NZ waters. A range of tours depart from Akaroa to spot these and other critters, including white-flippered penguins, orcas and seals.
Akaroa (‘Long Harbour’ in Maori) was the site of the country’s first French settlement and descendants of the original French pioneers still reside here. It’s a charming town that strives to re-create the feel of a French provincial village, down to the names of its streets and houses. Generally it’s a sleepy place but the peace is periodically shattered by hordes descending from gargantuan cruise ships. The ships used to dock in Lyttelton Harbour but since the earthquakes Akaroa has been a popular substitute. Even when Lyttelton’s back on its feet, the ships will be reluctant to leave.
Banks Peninsula
Sleeping
History
James Cook sighted the peninsula in 1770. Thinking it was an island, he named it after the naturalist Sir Joseph Banks.
In 1831, Onawe pa (fortified village) was attacked by the Ngati Toa chief Te Rauparaha and in the massacres that followed, the local Ngai Tahu population was dramatically reduced. Seven years later, whaling captain Jean Langlois negotiated the purchase of Banks Peninsula from the survivors and returned to France to form a trading company. With French government backing, 63 settlers headed for the peninsula in 1840, but only days before they arrived, panicked British officials sent their own warship to raise the flag at Akaroa, claiming British sovereignty under the Treaty of Waitangi. Had the settlers arrived two years earlier, the entire South Island could have become a French colony, and NZ’s future might have been quite different.
The French did settle at Akaroa, but in 1849 their land claim was sold to the New Zealand Company, and in 1850 a large group of British settlers arrived. The heavily forested land was cleared and soon farming became the peninsula’s main industry.
Akaroa
Sights
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking &
Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping