Tours

Tasman Valley 4WD & Argo Tours TOUR

( 0800 686 800; www.mountcooktours.co.nz; adult/child $75/38) Offers a 90-minute Argo (8WD all-terrain vehicle) tour checking out the Tasman Glacier and its terminal lake. Expect plenty of alpine flora and an interesting commentary along the way. Book online or at the Hermitage hotel activities desk.

Glacier Explorers BOAT TOUR

( 03-435 1641; www.glacierexplorers.com; adult/child $145/70) Head out on the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier onboard a custom-built MAC boat and get up close and personal with 300-year-old icebergs. Book at the activities desk at the Hermitage.

Helicopter Line SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 03-435 1801; www.helicopter.co.nz) From Glentanner Park, the Helicopter Line offers 20-minute Alpine Vista flights ($230), an exhilarating 35-minute flight over the Ben Ohau Range ($345) and a 40-minute Mountains High flight over the Tasman Glacier and alongside Aoraki/Mt Cook ($425). All feature snow landings.

Mount Cook Ski Planes SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 03-430 8034; www.mtcookskiplanes.com) Based at Mt Cook Airport, offering 40-minute (adult/child $405/295) and 55-minute (adult/child $530/405) flights, both with snow landings. Flightseeing without a landing is a cheaper option; try the 25-minute Mini Tasman trip (adult/child $275/255) or 45-minute Alpine Wonderland (adult/child $370/275).

Sleeping

Accommodation is more expensive in Mt Cook Village than in Twizel, but the thrill of waking up so close to the mountains is worth the additional expense.

Mt Cook YHA HOSTEL $

( 03-435 1820; www.yha.co.nz; 4 Bowen Dr; dm $37, d $118; ) Handsomely decked out in pine, this excellent hostel has a free sauna, drying room, log fires and DVDs. Rooms are clean and warm, although some are a tight squeeze (particularly the twin bunk rooms).

DOC White Horse Hill Campground CAMPSITE $

( 03-435 1186; Hooker Valley Rd; site per adult/child $10/5) Located 2km up the Hooker Valley from Aoraki/Mt Cook village, this self-registration campsite doesn’t have electricity or cooking facilities but it does have running water, toilets and an abundance of blissful views. It’s also perfectly positioned for tackling various walking tracks.

Glentanner Park Centre HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-435 1855; www.glentanner.co.nz; Mt Cook Rd; sites $19-22, dm $29, unit with/without bathroom from $160/80; ) On the northern shore of Lake Pukaki, 22km south of the village, this is the nearest fully equipped camp­ground to the national park. Facilities include various cabins and motel units, a bunk room and a restaurant.

Unwin Hut HOSTEL $

( 03-435 1100; www.alpineclub.org.nz; Mt Cook Rd; dm adult/child $30/15; ) About 3.5km before the village, this lodge belongs to the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). Members get preference, but beds are usually available for climbing groupies. There are basic bunks (bring your own linen), and a big common room with a fireplace and kitchen.

Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Lodge LODGE $$

( 03-435 1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; Bowen Dr; d $164-189; ) This modern lodge has comfortable en-suite rooms and a huge lounge and kitchen area. The superb mountain views from the barbecue area will have you arguing for the privilege of grilling the sausages for dinner.

Aoraki Court Motel MOTEL $$$

( 03-435 1111; www.aorakicourt.co.nz; 26 Bowen Dr; d $205-295) While it wouldn’t command these prices elsewhere, this clump of new motel units is very good indeed. Feature wallpaper sharpens up the decor, and the tiled bathrooms have designery touches. Some units have spa baths but all have kitchenettes and gee-golly mountain views.

Hermitage HOTEL $$$

( 03-435 1809; www.hermitage.co.nz; Terrace Rd; r $239-599; ) Completely dominating Mt Cook Village, this famous hotel offers fantastic mountain views. While the corridors in some of the older wings can seem a little hospital-like, all of the rooms have been renovated to a high standard. As well as the hotel, the Hermitage offers motel rooms and well-equipped A-frame chalets.

Eating & Drinking

Old Mountaineers CAFE, BAR $$

(www.mtcook.com; Bowen Dr; breakfast $10-15, lunch $15-26, dinner $18-35; 10am-9pm daily Nov-Apr, Tue-Sun May & Jul-Oct; ) A good-value alternative to the eateries at the Hermitage, this large eatery provides mountain views through picture windows or from outside tables in summer. As well as cooked breakfasts, it delivers top-notch burgers, pizza, pasta and salad. Linger to study the old black-and-white pics and mountaineering memorabilia.

Panorama MODERN NZ $$$

( 0800 686 800, 03-435 1809; www.hermitage.co.nz; Terrace Rd; mains $34-40; 6-10pm) The Hermitage’s signature restaurant is by far the best of the hotel’s dining options, which include a buffet restaurant and a lacklustre cafe. The sophisticated fare is well matched to wonderful views and interesting mid-20th-century architecture.

Chamois Bar & Grill PUB

(www.mountcookbackpackers.co.nz; Bowen Dr; 4pm-late) Upstairs in Mt Cook Backpacker Lodge, in the heart of the village, this large bar offers pub grub, a pool table, a big-screen TV and the occasional live gig.

Information

The DOC visitor centre (Click here) is the best source of local information. The nearest ATM and supermarket are in Twizel.

Getting There & Away

The village’s small airport only serves aerial sightseeing companies. Some of these may be willing to combine transport to the West Coast (ie Franz Josef) with a scenic flight, but flights are heavily dependent on weather.

If you’re driving, fill up at Lake Tekapo or Twizel. There is petrol at Mt Cook, but it’s expensive and involves summoning an attendant from the Hermitage (for a fee).

Cook Connection ( 0800 266 526; www.cookconnect.co.nz) Shuttle services to Lake Tekapo ($35, 1½ hours) and Twizel ($25, one hour).

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) Daily coaches head to/from Christchurch (from $67, 5¼ hours), Geraldine (from $38, three hours), Lake Tekapo, (from $30, 1½ hours), Cromwell (from $59, 2¾ hours) and Queenstown (from $64, four hours). They stop at the YHA and the Hermitage, both of which handle bookings.

Twizel

Pop 1140

It wasn’t long ago that New Zealanders maligned Twizel. The forest-ringed town just south of Lake Pukaki was built in 1968 to service construction of the nearby hydroelectric power station, and was due to be abandoned in 1984 when the project was ­completed. Now Twizel’s residents are having the last laugh as new lakeside subdivisions have been built to take advantage of the area’s relaxed lakes-and-mountains lifestyle. Accommodation, eateries, petrol and groceries are all better value in Twizel than Mt Cook Village.

Sights & Activities

Nearby Lake Ruataniwha is popular for rowing, boating and windsurfing. Fishing in local rivers, canals and lakes is also big business; ask at the information centre about local guides.

Kaki Visitor Hide WILDLIFE RESERVE

( 03-435 3124; adult/child $20/10; 9.30am & 4.30pm late Oct-Apr) The rare kaki (black stilt) is found only in NZ, and a breeding program is aiming to increase the population at the Ahuriri Conservation Park. It’s possible to get a close-up look at these elusive birds by booking a one-hour guided tour through the information centre. Tours depart from the centre, but you’ll need your own transport.

Tours

OneRing Tours TOUR

( 0800 213 868; www.lordoftheringstour.com) How often do you get the opportunity to charge around like a mad thing weilding replica LOTR gear? Not often enough! Tours head onto the sheep station used for the location of the Battle of the Pelennor Fields and include lots of information about the filming. Choose between a two-hour version (adult/child $84/45), a truncated one-hour option (adult/child $64/35) and an adults-only twilight tour, enjoying beer, wine and nibbles as the sun sets over Gondor ($115).

Helicopter Line SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 03-435 0370; www.helicopter.co.nz; Pukaki Airport, Harry Wigley Dr) Flight options include the hour-long Aoraki/Mt Cook Discovery ($640), the 45-minute Southern Alps Experience ($520), the 35-minute Alpine Scenic Flight ($345) and the 25-minute Alpine Express ($265). All but the shortest guarantee snow landings.

Sleeping

Twizel Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-435 0507; www.twizelholidaypark.co.nz; 122 Mackenzie Dr; sites from $34, dm $30, units $95-215; ) Offers green, flower-filled grounds and accommodation in a refurbished maternity hospital. There are a few en-suite cabins, a bunkroom and room for tents and campervans. The modern, self-contained cottages are particularly good value.

Omahau Downs B&B $$

( 03-435 0199; www.omahau.co.nz; SH8; s/d $115/135, cottage $125-225; closed Jun-Aug; ) This farmstead, 2km north of Twizel, has two cosy, self-contained cottages (one sleeping up to six), and a lodge with sparkling, modern rooms and a deck looking out at the Ben Ohau Range. An essential experience is a moonlit, wood-fired outdoor bath ($20).

Mountain Chalets MOTEL, HOSTEL $$

( 03-435 0785; www.mountainchalets.co.nz; Wairepo Rd; dm $28, d $110-130; ) Wooden ceilings add a rustic quality to these cosy, well-equipped, self-contained A-frame chalets, available as studio, one- and two-bedroom units. There’s also a small, laid-back lodge that’s perfect for backpackers.

Heartland Lodge B&B $$$

( 03-435 0008; www.heartland-lodge.co.nz; 19 North West Arch; apt $160, s $230-260, d $270-300; ) Built on the leafy outskirts of town, this large modern house has a surfeit of space, translating to a large wraparound living area downstairs and spacious guest rooms above. Prices include cooked breakfasts, unless you’re staying in ‘the retreat’, a separate apartment with its own kitchenette.

Eating & Drinking

Shawty’s CAFE, BAR $$

( 03-435 3155; www.shawtys.co.nz; 4 Market Pl; brunch $12-20, dinner $29-34; 8.30am-3pm Mon & Tue, 8.30am-late Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to late daily Nov-Mar; ) Cool beats and craft beers create a mood that’s surprisingly sophisticated for Twizel. Big breakfasts and gourmet pizzas ($14 to $18) are a good way to start and end an active day amid the surrounding alpine vistas. The adjacent Grappa Lounge has DJs and live music in summer.

Poppies Cafe CAFE $$

( 03-435 0848; www.poppiescafe.com; 1 Benmore Pl; brunch $10-20, dinner $23-35; 10am-3pm & 5.30-9pm; ) Lunch showcases the likes of gourmet pies, burgers and pasta, while dinner features more substantial fare; excellent pizzas ($20 to $24) occupy a tasty middle ground. It’s located on the outskirts of town near the Mackenzie Country Inn.

Jasmine Thai Café THAI $$

(1 Market Pl; lunch $12, dinner $18-22; noon-2pm Tue-Sat & 5-9pm daily) The zesty and zingy flavours of your favourite Southeast Asian beach holiday have travelled well to get this far inland. Alcohol is BYO, so grab a few cold beers from the Four Square supermarket to ease Jasmine’s authentic Thai heat.

Information

Twizel Information Centre ( 03-435 3124; Market Pl; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun)

Getting There & Away

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Daily buses to/from Christchurch ($35, 3¾ hours), Geraldine ($25, two hours), Lake Tekapo ($20, 40 minutes), Cromwell ($30, 2¼ hours) and Queenstown ($30, 3¼ hours).

Cook Connection ( 0800 266 526; www.cookconnect.co.nz) Shuttle services to Mt Cook Village ($25, one hour).

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) Daily coaches head to/from Christchurch (from $40, 5¼ hours), Lake Tekapo (from $13, 50 minutes), Mt Cook Village (from $32, one hour), Cromwell (from $29, two hours) and Queenstown (from $35, three hours).