Accommodation

Across New Zealand you can bed down in historic guesthouses, facility-laden hotels, uniform motel units, beautifully situated campsites, and hostels that range in character from clean-living to tirelessly party-prone.

If you’re travelling during peak tourist seasons, book your bed well in advance. Accommodation is most in demand (and at its priciest) during the summer holidays from Christmas to late January, at Easter, and during winter in snowy resort towns like Queenstown.

Visitor information centres provide reams of local accommodation information, often in the form of folders detailing facilities and up-to-date prices; many can also make bookings on your behalf.

For online listings, check out the websites of the Auto­mobile Association (AA; 0800 500 444; www.aa.co.nz) and Jasons (www.jasons.com) .

B&Bs

Bed and breakfast (B&B) accommodation in NZ pops up in the middle of cities, in rural hamlets and on stretches of isolated coastline, ranging from suburban bungalows to stately manors.

Breakfast may be ‘contin­ental’ (cereal, toast and tea or coffee), ‘hearty continental’ (add yoghurt, fruit, home-baked bread or muffins), or a stomach-loading cooked meal (eggs, bacon, sausages…). Some B&B hosts may also cook dinner for guests and advertise dinner, bed and breakfast (DB&B) packages.

B&B tariffs are typically in the $120 to $180 bracket (per double), though some places charge upwards of $300 per double. Some hosts cheekily charge hefty prices for what is, in essence, a bedroom in their home. Off-street parking is often a bonus in the big cities.

Bed & Breakfast Book (www.bnb.co.nz)

Bed & Breakfast Directory (www.bed-and-breakfast.co.nz)

Camping & Holiday Parks

Campers and campervan drivers alike converge upon NZ’s hugely popular ‘holiday parks’, slumbering peacefully in powered and unpowered sites, cheap bunk rooms (dorm rooms), cabins and self-contained units (often called motels or tourist flats). Well-equipped communal kitchens, dining areas, and games and TV rooms often feature. In cities, holiday parks are usually a fair way from the action, but in smaller towns they can be impressively central or near lakes, beaches, rivers and forests.

The nightly cost of camping in a holiday park is usually between $15 and $20 per adult, with children charged half-price; powered sites are a couple of dollars more. Cabin/unit accommodation normally ranges from $70 to $120 per double. Unless noted otherwise, the prices we’ve listed for campsites, campervan sites, huts and cabins are for two people.

DOC Campsites & Freedom Camping

A fantastic option for those in campervans is the 250-plus vehicle-accessible ‘Conservation Campsites’ run by the Department of Conservation (DOC; www.doc.govt.nz) , with fees ranging from free (basic toilets and fresh water) to $15 per adult (flush toilets and showers). DOC publishes free brochures with detailed descriptions and instructions to find every campsite (even GPS coordinates). Pick up copies from DOC offices before you hit the road, or visit the website.

DOC also looks after hundreds of ‘Backcountry Huts’ and ‘Backcountry Campsites’ which can only be reached on foot. See the website for details. ‘Great Walk’ huts and campsites are also managed by DOC: Click here for info.

NZ is so photogenic, it’s tempting to just pull off the road at a gorgeous viewpoint and camp the night. But never just assume it’s OK to camp somewhere: always ask a local or check with the local i-SITE, DOC office or commercial campground. If you are freedom camping, treat the area with respect. Note that if your chosen campsite doesn’t have toilet facilities and neither does your campervan, it’s illegal for you to sleep there (your campervan must also have an on-board grey-water storage stytem). Legislation allows for $200 instant fines for camping in prohibited areas, or improper disposal of waste (in cases where dumping waste could damage the environment, fees are up to $10,000). See www.camping.org.nz for more freedom-camping tips.

Farmstays

Farmstays open the door to the agricultural side of NZ life, with visitors encouraged to get some dirt beneath their fingernails at orchards and dairy, sheep and cattle farms. Costs can vary widely, with B&Bs generally ranging from $80 to $120. Some farms have separate cottages where you can fix your own food, while others offer low-cost, shared, backpacker-­style ­accommodation.

Farm Helpers in NZ (FHINZ; www.fhinz.co.nz) produces a booklet ($25) that lists around 350 NZ farms providing lodging in exchange for four to six hours’ work per day. Rural Holidays NZ (www.ruralholidays.co.nz) lists farmstays and homestays throughout the country on its website.

Hostels

NZ is packed with backpacker hostels, both independent and part of large chains, ranging from small, homestay-style affairs with a handful of beds to refurbished hotels and towering modern structures in the big cities. Hostel bed prices listed throughout this book are nonmember rates, usually between $25 and $35 per night.

Hostel Organisations

Budget Backpacker Hostels (BBH; www.bbh.co.nz) NZ’s biggest hostel group with around 275 hostels. Membership costs $45 for 12 months and entitles you to stay at member hostels at rates listed in the annual (free) BBH Backpacker Accommodation booklet. Nonmembers pay an extra $3 per night. Pick up a membership card from any member hostel or order one online for $50; see the website for details.

YHA New Zealand (Youth Hostels Association; www.yha.co.nz) More than 25 hostels in prime South Island locations. The YHA is part of the Hostelling International (HI; www.hihostels.com) network, so if you’re already a HI member in your own country, membership entitles you to use NZ hostels. If you don’t already have a home membership, you can join at major NZ YHA hostels or online for $42, valid for 12 months. Nonmembers pay an extra $3 per night.

Base Backpackers (www.stayatbase.com) Chain with seven hostels around NZ: Bay of Islands, Auckland, Rotorua, Taupo, Wellington, Wanaka and Queenstown, plus affiliates in Nelson and Dunedin (…and a Christchurch hostel closed for post-quake repairs) . Expect clean dorms, girls-only areas and party opportunities aplenty. Offers a 10-night ‘Base Jumping’ accommodation card for $239, bookable online.

VIP Backpackers (www.vipbackpackers.com) International organisation affiliated with around 20 NZ hostels (not BBH or YHA), mainly in the cities and tourist hot spots. For around $61 (including postage) you’ll receive a 12-month membership entitling you to a $1 discount off nightly accommodation. Join online or at VIP hostels.

Nomads Backpackers (www.nomadsworld.com) Seven franchises in NZ: Auckland, Rotorua, Taupo, Waitomo, Wellington, Abel Tasman National Park and Queenstown. Membership costs $49 for 12 months and, like VIP, offers $1 off the cost of nightly accommodation. Join at participating hostels or online.

Pubs, Hotels & Motels

» The least expensive form of NZ hotel accommodation is the humble pub. NZ’s old pubs are often full of character (and characters), although some are grotty, ramshackle places that are best avoided. Check if there’s a band playing the night you’re staying – you could be in for a sleepless night. In the cheapest pubs, singles/doubles might cost as little as $30/60 (with a shared bathroom down the hall), though $50/80 is more common.

» At the top end of the hotel scale are five-star international chains, resort complexes and architecturally splendorous boutique hotels, all of which charge a hefty premium for their mod cons, snappy service and/or historic opulence. We quote ‘rack rates’ (official advertised rates) for such places, but discounts and special deals often apply.

» NZ’s towns have a glut of nondescript, low-rise motels and ‘motor lodges’, charging between $80 and $180 for double rooms. These tend to be squat structures skulking by highways on the edges of towns. Most are modernish (though decor is often mired in the early 2000s) and have similar facilities, namely tea- and coffee-making equipment, fridge, and TV – prices vary with standard.

Rental Accommodation

The basic Kiwi holiday home is called a ‘bach’ (short for ‘bachelor’, as they were historically used by single men as hunting and fishing hideouts); in Otago and Southland they’re known as ‘cribs’. These are simple self-contained cottages that can be rented in rural and coastal areas, often in isolated locations. Prices are typically $80 to $150 per night, which isn’t bad for a whole house or self-contained bungalow. For more upmarket holiday houses, expect to pay anything from $150 to $400 per double.

» www.holidayhomes.co.nz

» www.bookabach.co.nz

» www.holidayhouses.co.nz

» www.nzapartments.co.nz

Children

NZ is a terrific place to travel with kids: safe and affordable, with loads of playgrounds, kid-centric activities, a moderate climate and chilli-free cuisine. For helpful general tips, see Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children . Handy online resources for kids’ activities and travel info include:

» www.kidzgo.co.nz

» www.kidspot.co.nz

» www.kidsnewzealand.com

» www.kidsfriendlynz.com

Climate

Practicalities

» Many motels and holiday parks have playgrounds, games and DVDs, and, occasionally, fenced swimming pools and trampolines. Cots and highchairs aren’t always available at budget and midrange accommodation, but top-end hotels supply them and often provide child-minding services. Many B&Bs promote themselves as kid-free, and hostels tend to focus on the backpacker demographic, but there are plenty of hostels (including YHA) that do allow kids.

» For specialised childcare, try www.rockmybaby.co.nz, or look under ‘babysitters’ and ‘child care centres’ in the Yellow Pages directory.

» Check that your car-hire company can supply the right-sized seat for your child, and that the seat will be properly fitted. Some companies legally require you to fit car seats yourself.

» Most Kiwis are relaxed about public breastfeeding. Alternatively, cities and major towns have public rooms where parents can go to feed a baby or change a nappy (diaper); check with the local visitor information centre, or ask a local.

» Kids’ and family rates are often available for accommodation, tours, attraction entry fees, and air, bus and train transport, with discounts of as much as 50% off the adult rate. Note that the definition of ‘child’ can vary from under 12 to under 18 years; toddlers (under four years old) usually get free admission and transport.

» There are plenty of family-friendly restaurants in NZ with highchairs and kids’ menus. Pubs often serve kids’ meals and most cafes and restaurants (with the exception of upmarket eateries) can handle the idea of child-sized portions.

» NZ’s medical services and facilities are world-class, with goods like formula and disposable nappies widely available.

Customs ­Regulations

For the low-down on what you can and can’t bring into NZ, see the New Zealand Customs Service (www.customs.govt.nz) website. Per-person duty-free allowances:

» 1125mL of spirits or liqueur

» 4.5L of wine or beer

» 200 cigarettes (or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco)

» dutiable goods up to the value of $700

It’s a good idea to declare any unusual medicines. Tramping gear (boots, tents etc) will be checked and may need to be cleaned before being allowed in. You must declare any plant or animal products (including anything made of wood), and food of any kind. Weapons and firearms are either prohibited or require a permit and safety testing.

Discount Cards

» The internationally recognised International Student Identity Card is produced by the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) , and issued to full-time students aged 12 and over. It provides discounts on accommodation, transport and admission to attractions. The ISTC also produces the International Youth Travel Card , available to folks under 30 who are not full-time students, with equivalent benefits to the ISIC. Also similar is the International Teacher Identity Card , available to teaching professionals. All three cards (NZ$30 each) are available online at www.isiccard.co.nz, or from student travel companies like STA Travel.

» The New Zealand Card (www.newzealandcard.com) is a $35 discount pass that’ll score you between 5% and 50% off a range of accommodation, tours, sights and activities.

» Travellers over 60 with some form of identification (eg an official seniors card) are often eligible for concession prices.

Electricity

To plug yourself into the electricity supply (230V AC, 50Hz), use a three-pin adaptor (the same as in Australia; different to British three-pin adaptors).

Embassies & Consulates

Most principal diplomatic representations to NZ are in Wellington, with a few in Auckland.

Australian High Commission ( 04-473 6411; www.australia.org.nz; 72-76 Hobson St, Thorndon, Wellington)

Canadian High Commission ( 04-473 9577; Lvl 11, 125 The Terrace, Wellington)

Chinese Embassy ( 04-474 9631; www.chinaembassy.org.nz; 2-6 Glenmore St, Kelburn, Wellington)

Fijian High Commission ( 04-473 5401; www.fiji.org.nz; 31 Pipitea St, Thorndon, Wellington)

French Embassy ( 04-384 2555; www.ambafrance-nz.org; 34-42 Manners St, Wellington)

German Embassy ( 04-473 6063; www.wellington.diplo.de; 90-92 Hobson St, Thorndon, Wellington)

Irish Consulate ( 09-977 2252; www.ireland.co.nz; Lvl 3, Tower 1, 205 Queen St, Auckland)

Israeli Embassy ( 04-439 9500; http://embassies.gov.il/wellington; Lvl 13, Bayleys Bldg, 36 Brandon St, Wellington)

Japanese Embassy ( 04-473 1540; www.nz.emb-japan.go.jp; Lvl 18, The Majestic Centre, 100 Willis St, Wellington)

Netherlands Embassy ( 04-471 6390; http://newzealand.nlembassy.org; Lvl 10, Cooperative Bank Bldg, cnr Featherston & Ballance Sts, Wellington)

UK High Commission ( 04-924 2888; www.gov.uk; 44 Hill St, Thorndon, Wellington)

US Embassy ( 04-462 6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov; 29 Fitzherbert Tce, Thorndon, Wellington)

Food & Drink

New Zealand’s restaurants and cafes are adept at throwing together traditional staples (lamb, beef, venison, green-lipped mussels) with Asian, European and pan-Pacific flair. Eateries themselves range from fish-and-chip shops and pub bistros to retro-styled cafes, restaurant-bars with full à la carte service and crisp-linen fine dining rooms. Tipping is not mandatory, but feel free if you’ve had a happy culinary experience (about 10% of the bill). For online listings:

» www.dineout.co.nz

» www.menus.co.nz

On the liquid front, NZ wine is world class (especially sauvignon blanc and pinot noir), and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a NZ town of any size without decent espresso. NZ microbrewed beers have also become mainstream.

Vegetarians & Vegans

Most large urban centres have at least one dedicated vegetarian cafe or restaurant: see the Vegetarians New Zealand (www.vegetarians.co.nz) website for listings. Beyond this, almost all restaurants and cafes offer some vegetarian menu choices (although sometimes only one or two). Many eateries also provide gluten-free and vegan options. Always check that stocks and sauces are vegetarian, too.

In this book, the vegetarian icon in Eating listings indicates a good vegetarian selection.

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

The gay and lesbian tourism industry in NZ isn’t as high-profile as it is in neighbouring Australia, but homosexual communities are prominent in Auckland and Wellington, with myriad support organisations across both islands. NZ has progressive laws protecting the rights of gays and lesbians: same-sex marriage was legalised here in 2013. Generally speaking, Kiwis are fairly relaxed and accepting about homosexuality, but that’s not to say that homophobia doesn’t exist.

Resources

There are loads of websites dedicated to gay and lesbian travel in NZ. Gay Tourism New Zealand (www.gaytourismnewzealand.com) is a good starting point, with links to various sites. Other worthwhile queer websites include the following:

» www.gaynz.com

» www.gaynz.net.nz

» www.lesbian.net.nz

» www.gaystay.co.nz

Check out the nationwide magazine express (www.gayexpress.co.nz) every second Wednesday for the latest happenings, reviews and listings on the NZ gay scene.

Festivals & Events

Big Gay Out (www.biggayout.co.nz) Free festival (food, drink, entertainment) held every February in Auckland.

Out Takes (www.outtakes.org.nz) G&L film festival staged in Auckland and Wellington in May/June.

Gay Ski Week (www.gayskiweekqt.com) Annual Queens­town snow-fest in August/September.

Health

New Zealand is one of the healthiest countries in the world in which to travel. Diseases such as malaria and typhoid are unheard of, and the absence of poisonous snakes or other dangerous animals makes outdoor adventures here less risky than in neighbouring Australia.

Before You Go

Medications

Bring medications in their original, clearly labelled containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications (including generic names) and any requisite syringes or needles, is also wise.

Vaccinations

NZ has no vaccination requirements for any traveller, but the World Health Organ-ization recommends that all travellers should be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella, chickenpox and polio, as well as hepatitis B, regardless of their destination. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (or ‘the yellow booklet’), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received.

Health Insurance

Health insurance is essential for all travellers. While health care in NZ is of a high standard and not overly expensive by international standards, considerable costs can be built up and repatriation can be pricey.

If your current health insurance doesn’t cover you for medical expenses incurred overseas, consider extra insurance – see www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance for more information. Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures.

In New Zealand

Availability & Cost of Health Care

NZ’s public hospitals offer a high standard of care (free for residents). All travellers are covered for medical care resulting from accidents that occur while in NZ (eg motor-vehicle accidents, adventure-activity accidents) by the Accident Compensation Corporation (ACC; www.acc.co.nz) . Costs incurred due to treatment of a medical illness that occurs while in NZ will only be covered by travel insurance. For more details, see www.moh.govt.nz and www.acc.co.nz.

The 24-hour, free-call Healthline ( 0800 611 116; www.health.govt.nz) offers health advice throughout NZ.

Pharmaceuticals

Over-the-counter medications are widely available in NZ through private chemists. These include painkillers, antihistamines and skin-care products. Some medications, such as antibiotics and the contraceptive pill, are only available via a prescription obtained from a general practitioner. If you take regular medications, bring an adequate supply and details of the generic name, as brand names differ country-to-country.

Infectious Diseases

The giardia parasite is widespread in NZ waterways: drinking untreated water from streams and lakes is not recommended. Using water filters and boiling or treating water with iodine are effective ways of preventing the disease. Symptoms consist of intermittent diarrhoea, abdominal bloating and wind. Effective treatment is available (tinidazole or ­metronidazole).

Environmental Hazards

» Hypothermia is a significant risk, especially during winter and year-round at altitude. Mountain ranges and/or strong winds produce a high chill factor, which can cause hypothermia even in moderate temperatures. Early signs include the inability to perform fine movements (such as doing up buttons), shivering and a bad case of the ‘umbles’ (fumbles, mumbles, grumbles, stumbles). To treat, minimise heat loss: remove wet clothing, add dry clothes with wind- and waterproof layers, and consume water and carbohydrates to allow shivering to build the internal temperature. In severe hypothermia, shivering actually stops; this is a medical emergency requiring rapid evacuation in addition to the above measures.

» NZ has exceptional surf beaches. The power of the surf can fluctuate as a result of the varying slope of the seabed at many beaches. Check with local surf-lifesaving organisations before entering the surf and be aware of your own limitations and expertise.

Insurance

» A watertight travel insurance policy covering theft, loss and medical problems is essential. Some policies specifically exclude designated ‘dangerous activities’ such as scuba diving, bungy jumping, white-water rafting, skiing and even tramping. If you plan on doing any of these things (a distinct possibility in NZ!), make sure your policy covers you fully.

» It’s worth mentioning that under NZ law, you cannot sue for personal injury (other than exemplary damages). Instead, the country’s Accident Compensation Corporation (ACC; www.acc.co.nz) administers an accident compensation scheme that provides accident insurance for NZ residents and visitors to the country, regardless of fault. This scheme, however, does not negate the necessity for your own comprehensive travel-insurance policy, as it doesn’t cover you for such things as income loss, treatment at home or ongoing illness.

» Consider a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly, rather than you paying on the spot and claiming later. If you have to claim later, keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. Check that the policy covers ambulances and emergency medical evacuations by air.

» Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access

Wi-Fi & Internet Service Providers

» You’ll be able to find wi-fi access around the country, from hotel rooms to pub beer gardens to hostel dorms. Usually you have to be a guest or customer to log-on; you’ll be issued with an access code. Sometimes it’s free, sometimes there’s a charge.

» The country’s main telecommunications company is Telecom New Zealand (www.telecom.co.nz) , which has wireless hotspots around the country where you can purchase prepaid access cards. Alternatively, purchase a prepaid number from the login page at any wireless hotspot using your credit card. See Telecom’s website for hotspot listings.

» If you’ve brought your palmtop or laptop, consider buying a prepaid USB modem (aka a ‘dongle’) with a local SIM card: both Telecom and Vodafone (www.vodafone.co.nz) sell these from around $100. If you want to get connected via a local internet service provider (ISP), options include the following:

Clearnet ( 0508 888 800; www.clearnet.co.nz)

Earthlight ( 03-479 0303; www.earthlight.co.nz)

Slingshot ( 0800 892 000; www.slingshot.co.nz)

Internet Cafes

There are fewer internet cafes around these days than there were five years ago (thanks to the advent of mobile devices and wi-fi) but you’ll still find them in most sizable towns. Access at cafes ranges from $4 to $6 per hour.

Most youth hostels have both computers for internet access and wi-fi, as do many hotels and caravan parks. Many public libraries have internet access, including wi-fi, but generally it’s provided for research, not for travellers to check Facebook.

Legal Matters

» Marijuana is widely indulged in but illegal: anyone caught carrying this or other illicit drugs will have the book thrown at them.

» Drink-driving is a serious offence and remains a significant problem in NZ. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.08% for drivers over 20, and zero for those under 20.

» If you are arrested, it’s your right to consult a lawyer before any formal questioning begins.

Maps

The Automobile Association (AA; 0800 500 444; www.aa.co.nz/travel) produces excellent city, town, regional, island and highway maps, available from its local offices. It also produces a detailed New Zealand Road Atlas . Other reliable countrywide atlases, available from vis­itor information centres and bookshops, are published by Hema, KiwiMaps and Wises.

Land Information New Zealand (LINZ; www.linz.govt.nz) publishes several map series, including street, country and holiday maps, national park and forest park maps, and topographical trampers’ maps. Scan the larger bookshops, or try the nearest DOC office or visitor information centre for topo maps.

Online, log onto AA Maps (www.aamaps.co.nz) or Yellow Maps (www.maps.yellowpages.co.nz) to pinpoint exact NZ addresses.

Money

ATMs & Eftpos

Branches of the country’s major banks across both islands have ATMs, but you won’t find them everywhere (eg not in small towns).

Many NZ businesses use electronic funds transfer at point of sale (Eftpos), allowing you to use your bank card (credit or debit) to make direct purchases and often withdraw cash as well. Eftpos is available practically everywhere: just like an ATM, you’ll need a personal identification number (PIN).

Bank Accounts

We’ve heard mixed reports on the subject of travellers opening bank accounts in NZ, and bank websites are vague. Some sources say opening an account is as simple as flashing a few pieces of ID; other sources say banks won’t allow visitors to open an account unless the application is accompanied by proof of employment. Either way, do your homework before you arrive and be prepared to shop around to get the best deal.

Credit & Debit Cards

Credit Cards

Credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted for everything from a hostel bed to a bungy jump, and are pretty much essential for car hire. They can also be used for over-the-counter cash advances at banks and from ATMs, but be aware that such transactions incur charges. Diners Club and American Express cards are not as widely accepted.

Debit Cards

Debit cards enable you to draw money directly from your home bank account using ATMs, banks or Eftpos facilities. Any card connected to the international banking network (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa Plus and Eurocard) should work with your PIN. Fees will vary depending on your home bank; ask before you leave. Alternatively, companies such as Travelex offer debit cards with set withdrawal fees and a balance you can top-up from your personal bank account while on the road.

Currency

NZ’s currency is the NZ dollar, comprising 100 cents. There are 10c, 20c, 50c, $1 and $2 coins, and $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 notes. Prices are often still marked in single cents and then rounded to the nearest 10c when you hand over your money.

Moneychangers

Changing foreign currency or travellers cheques is usually no problem at NZ banks or at licensed moneychangers (eg Travelex) in the major cities. Moneychangers can be found in all major tourist areas, cities and airports.

Taxes & Refunds

The Goods and Services Tax (GST) is a flat 15% tax on all domestic goods and services. Prices in this book include GST. There’s no GST refund available when you leave NZ.

Travellers Cheques

Amex, Travelex and other international brands of travellers cheques are a bit old-fashioned these days, but they’re easily exchanged at banks and moneychangers. Present your passport for identification when cashing them; shop around for the best rates.

Opening Hours

Note that most attractions close on Christmas Day and Good Friday.

Shops & businesses 9am to 5.30pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to 12.30pm or 5pm Saturday. Late-night shopping (until 9pm) in larger cities on Thursday and/or Friday nights. Sunday trading in most big towns and cities.

Supermarkets 8am to 7pm, often 9pm or later in cities.

Banks 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday; some city branches also open Saturday mornings.

Post offices 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday; larger branches also 9.30am to 1pm Saturday. Postal desks in news­agencies open later.

Restaurants noon to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 9pm, often until 11pm Fridays and Saturdays.

Cafes 7am to 4pm or 5pm.

Pubs Noon until late; food from noon to 2pm and from 6pm to 8pm.

Post

The services offered by New Zealand Post ( 0800 501 501; www.nzpost.co.nz) are reliable and reasonably inexpensive. See the website for current info on national and international zones and rates, plus post office locations.

Public Holidays

NZ’s main public holidays:

New Year 1 and 2 January

Waitangi Day 6 February

Easter Good Friday and Easter Monday; March/April

Anzac Day 25 April

Queen’s Birthday First Monday in June

Labour Day Fourth Monday in October

Christmas Day 25 December

Boxing Day 26 December

In addition, each NZ province has its own anniversary-day holiday. The dates vary: when they fall on Friday to Sunday, they’re usually observed the following Monday; if they fall on Tuesday to Thursday, they’re held on the preceding Monday. Provincial anniversary holidays:

Southland 17 January

Wellington 22 January

Auckland 29 January

Northland 29 January

Nelson 1 February

Otago 23 March

Taranaki 31 March

South Canterbury 25 September

Hawke’s Bay 1 November

Marlborough 1 November

Chatham Islands 30 November

Westland 1 December

Canterbury 16 December

School Holidays

The Christmas holiday season, from mid-December to late January, is part of the summer school vacation: expect transport and accommodation to book-out in advance, and queues at tourist attractions. There are three shorter school-holiday periods during the year: from mid- to late April, early to mid-July, and mid-September to early October. For exact dates see the Ministry of Education (www.minedu.govt.nz) website.

Safe Travel

Although it’s no more dangerous than other developed countries, violent crime does happen in NZ, so it’s worth taking sensible precautions on the streets at night or if staying in remote areas. Gang culture permeates some parts of the country; give any black-jacketed, insignia-­wearing groups a wide berth.

Theft from cars is a problem around NZ – travellers are viewed as easy marks. Avoid leaving valuables in vehicles, no matter where they’re parked; you’re tempting fate at tourist parking ­areas and trailhead car parks.

Don’t underestimate the dangers posed by NZ’s unpredictable, ever-changing climate, especially in high-altitude areas. Hypothermia is a real risk.

NZ has been spared the venomous creatures found in neighbouring Australia (spiders, snakes, jelly­fish…). Sharks patrol NZ waters, but rarely nibble on humans. Much greater ocean hazards are rips and undertows, which can quickly drag swimmers out to sea: heed local warnings.

Kiwi roads are often made hazardous by speeding locals, wide-cornering campervans and traffic-ignorant sheep. Set yourself a reasonable itinerary and keep your eyes on the road. Cyclists take care: motorists can’t always overtake easily on skinny roads.

In the annoyances category, NZ’s sandflies are a royal pain (the intense itching can last for months). Lather yourself with insect repellent in coastal areas, even if you’re only sitting on the edge of a beach for a minute or two.

Telephone

Telecom New Zealand (www.telecom.co.nz) The key domestic player, with a stake in the local mobile (cell) market.

Vodafone (www.vodafone.co.nz) Mobile-network option.

2 Degrees (www.2degreesmobile.co.nz) Mobile-network option.

Mobile Phones

Mobile phone numbers are preceded by the prefix 021, 022, 025 or 027. Mobile phone coverage is good in cities and towns and most parts of the North Island, but can be patchy away from urban centres on the South Island.

If you want to bring your own phone and use a prepaid service with a local SIM card, Vodafone is a practical option. Any Vodafone shop (found in most major towns) will set you up with a SIM card and phone number (about $40); top-ups can be purchased at newsagencies, post offices and petrol stations practically anywhere.

Alternatively, if you don’t bring your own phone from home, you can rent one from Vodafone Rental ( www.vodarent.co.nz ) from $5 per day (for which you’ll also need a local SIM card), with pick-up and drop-off outlets at NZ’s major airports. We’ve also had some positive feedback on Phone Hire New Zealand (www.phonehirenz.com) which hires out mobile phones, SIM cards, modems and GPS systems.

Local Calls

Local calls from private phones are free! Local calls from payphones cost $1 for the first 15 minutes, and $0.20 per minute there­after, though coin-operated payphones are scarce (and if you do find one, chances are the coin slot will be gummed up); you’ll generally need a phonecard. Calls to mobile phones attract higher rates.

International Calls

Payphones allow international calls, but the cost and international dialling code for calls varies by provider. International calls are relatively inexpensive and subject to specials that reduce the rates even more, so it’s worth shopping around – consult the Yellow Pages for providers.

To make international calls from NZ, you need to dial the international access code 00, then the country code and the area code (without the initial 0). So for a London number, you’d dial 00-44-20, then the number.

If dialling NZ from overseas, the country code is 64, followed by the appropriate area code minus the initial 0.

Long Distance Calls & Area Codes

NZ uses regional two-digit area codes for long-distance calls, which can be made from any payphone. If you’re making a local call (ie to someone else in the same town), you don’t need to dial the area code. But if you’re dialling within a region (even if it’s to a nearby town with the same area code), you do have to dial the area code.

Information & Toll-Free Calls

Numbers starting with 0900 are usually recorded information services, charging upwards of $1 per minute (more from mobiles); these numbers cannot be dialled from payphones.

Toll-free numbers in NZ have the prefix 0800 or 0508 and can be called free of charge from anywhere in the country, though they may not be accessible from certain areas or from mobile phones. Telephone numbers beginning with 0508, 0800 or 0900 cannot be dialled from outside NZ.

Phonecards

NZ has a wide range of phonecards available, which can be bought at hostels, newsagencies and post offices for a fixed-dollar value (usually $5, $10, $20 and $50). These can be used with any public or private phone by dialling a toll-free access number and then the PIN on the card. Shop around – rates vary from company to company.

Time

NZ is 12 hours ahead of GMT/UTC and two hours ahead of Australian Eastern Standard Time. The Chathams are 45 minutes ahead of NZ’s main islands.

In summer, NZ observes daylight-saving time, where clocks are wound forward by one hour on the last Sunday in September; clocks are wound back on the first Sunday of the following April.

Toilets

Toilets in NZ are sit-down Western style. Public toilets are plentiful, and are usually fairly clean with working locks and plenty of toilet paper.

See www.toiletmap.co.nz for public toilet locations around the country.

Tourist ­Information

Tourism New Zealand

The website for the official national tourism body, Tourism New Zealand (www.newzealand.com) , is the best place for pretrip research. Emblazoned with the hugely successful 100% Pure New Zealand branding, the site has information in several languages, including German and Japanese, and also lists Tourism New Zealand contact offices overseas (Australia, UK, USA etc).

Local Tourist Offices

Almost every Kiwi city or town seems to have a vis­itor information centre. The bigger centres stand united within the outstanding i-SITE (www.newzealand.com/travel/i-sites) network – around 80 info centres affiliated with Tourism New Zealand. i-SITEs have trained staff, information on local activities and attractions, and free brochures and maps. Staff can also book activities, transport and accommodation.

Bear in mind that some information centres only promote accommodation and tour operators who are paying members of the local tourist association, and that sometimes staff aren’t supposed to recommend one activity or accommodation provider over another.

There’s also a network of Department of Conservation (DOC; www.doc.govt.nz) visitor centres to help you plan activities and make bookings. DOC visitor centres – in national parks, regional centres and major cities – usually also have displays on local lore, flora, fauna and biodiversity.

Travellers with Disabilities

Kiwi accommodation generally caters fairly well for travellers with disabilities, with a significant number of hostels, hotels, motels and B&Bs equipped with wheelchair-­accessible rooms. Many ­tourist attractions similarly provide wheelchair access, with wheelchairs often available.

Tour operators with accessible vehicles operate from most major centres. Key cities are also serviced by ‘kneeling’ buses (buses that hydraulically stoop down to kerb level to allow easy access), and taxi companies offer wheelchair-accessible vans. Large car-hire firms (Avis, Hertz etc) provide cars with hand controls at no extra charge (advance notice required).

Activities

Want to tackle a wilderness pathway? Pick up a copy of Accessible Walks by Anna and Andrew Jameson ($30 including postage), with first-hand descriptions of 100-plus South Island walks. It’s available online at www.accessiblewalks.co.nz.

If cold-weather activity is more your thing, see the Disabled Snowsports NZ (www.disabledsnowsports.org.nz) website.

Resources

Weka (www.weka.net.nz) Good general information, with categories including Transport and Travel.

Royal New Zealand Foundation of the Blind (www.rnzfb.org.nz)

National Foundation for the Deaf (www.nfd.org.nz)

Mobility Parking (www.mobilityparking.org.nz) Info on mobility parking permits and online applications.

Visas

Visa application forms are available from NZ diplomatic missions overseas, travel agents and Immigration New Zealand ( 09-914 4100, 0508 558 855; www.immigration.govt.nz) . Immigration New Zealand has over a dozen offices overseas; consult the website.

Visitor Visa

Australian citizens don’t need a visa to visit NZ and can stay indefinitely (provided they have no criminal convictions). UK citizens don’t need a visa either and can stay in the country for up to six months.

Citizens of another 56 countries that have visa-waiver agreements with NZ don’t need a visa for stays of up to three months, provided they have an onward ticket and sufficient funds to support their stay. Nations in this group include Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan, the Netherlands, South Africa and the USA.

Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa before entering NZ. Visas come with three months’ standard validity and cost NZ$130 if processed in Australia or certain South Pacific countries (eg Samoa, Fiji), or around NZ$165 if processed elsewhere in the world.

A visitor’s visa can be extended for stays of up to nine months within one 18-month period, or to a maximum of 12 months in the country. Applications are assessed on a case-by-case basis; you may need to provide proof of adequate funds to sustain you during your visit (NZ$1000 per month) plus an onward ticket establishing your intent to leave. Apply for extensions at any Immigration New Zealand office.

Work Visa & Working Holiday Scheme

Work Visa

It’s illegal for foreign nationals to work in NZ on a visitor visa, except for Australians who can legally gain work without a visa or permit. If you’re visiting NZ to find work, or you already have an employment offer, you’ll need to apply for a work visa, which translates into a work permit once you arrive and is valid for up to three years. You can apply for a work permit after you’re in NZ, but its validity will be backdated to when you entered the country. The fee for a work visa fluctuates between NZ$230 and NZ$360, depending on where and how it’s processed (paper or online) and the type of application.

Working Holiday Scheme

Eligible travellers who are only interested in short-term employment to supplement their travels can take part in one of NZ’s working holiday schemes (WHS). Under these schemes citizens aged 18 to 30 years from 40 countries − including Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan, Malaysia, the Netherlands, Scandinavian countries, the UK and the USA − can apply for a visa. For most nationalities the visa is valid for 12 months. It’s only issued to those seeking a genuine working holiday, not permanent work, so you’re not supposed to work for one employer for more than three months.

Most WHS-eligible nationals must apply for this visa from within their own country; residents of some countries can apply online. Applicants must have an onward ticket, a passport valid for at least three months from the date they will leave NZ and evidence of at least NZ$4200 in accessible funds. The application fee is NZ$165 regardless of where you apply, and isn’t refunded if your application is declined.

The rules vary for different nationalities, so make sure you read up on the specifics of your country’s agreement with NZ at www.immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/work/workingholiday.

Volunteering

NZ presents a swathe of active, outdoorsy volunteer opportunities for travellers to get some dirt under their fingernails and participate in conservation programs. Programs include anything from tree-planting and weed removal to track construction, habitat conservation and fencing. Ask about local opportunities at any regional i-SITE visitor information centre, or check out www.conservationvolunteers.org.nz and www.doc.govt.nz/getting-involved, both of which allow you to browse for opportunities by region. An­other resource is www.helpx.net, which lists volunteering opportunities on farms where you can work in exchange for accommodation.

Women Travellers

NZ is generally a very safe place for women travellers, although the usual sensible precautions apply: avoid walking alone late at night and never hitchhike alone. If you’re out on the town, always keep enough money aside for a taxi back to your accommodation. Lone ­women should also be wary of staying in basic pub accommodation unless it looks safe and well managed. Sexual harassment is not a widely reported problem in NZ, but of course it does happen.

See www.womentravel.co.nz for more information.

Work

If you arrive in NZ on a visitor visa, you’re not allowed to work for pay. If you’re caught breaching this visa condition, you could be booted back to where you came from.

If you have been approved for a WHS visa, look into the possibilities for temporary employment. There’s plenty of casual work around, mainly in agriculture (fruit picking, farming, wineries), hospitality (bar work, waiting tables) or at ski resorts. Office-based work can be found in IT, banking, finance and telemarketing. Register with a local office-work agency to get started.

Seasonal fruit picking, pruning and harvesting is prime short-term work for visitors. More than 30,000 hectares of apples, kiwifruit and other fruit and veg are harvested from December to May. Rates are around $12 to $17 an hour (not much) for physically taxing toil, working in the dirt under the hot sun − turnover of workers is high. You’re usually paid by how much you pick (per bin, bucket or kilogram): if you stick with it for a while, you’ll get faster and fitter and can actually make some reasonable cash. Prime North Island picking locations include the Bay of Islands (Kerikeri and Paihia), rural Auckland, Tauranga and the Bay of Plenty, Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay (Napier and Hastings); on the South Island try Nelson (Tapawera and Golden Bay), Marlborough (around Blenheim) and Central Otago (Alexandra and Roxburgh).

Winter work at ski resorts and their service towns includes bartending, waiting, cleaning, ski-tow oper­ation and, if you’re properly qualified, ski or snowboard instructing.

Resources

Backpacker publications, hostel managers and other travellers are the best ­sources of info on local work possibilities. Base Backpackers (www.stayatbase.com/work) runs an employment service via its website, while the Notice Boards page on Budget Backpacker Hostels (BBH; www.bbh.co.nz) lists job vacancies in BBH hostels and a few other possibilities.

Kiwi Careers (www.careers.govt.nz) lists professional opportunities in various fields (agriculture, creative, health, teaching, volunteer work and recruitment), while Seek (www.seek.co.nz) is one of the biggest job-search networks, with thousands of jobs listed.

Check ski-resort websites for work opportunities in the snow; in the fruit-picking/horticultural realm, try the following websites:

» www.seasonalwork.co.nz

» www.seasonaljobs.co.nz

» www.picknz.co.nz

» www.pickingjobs.com

Income Tax

Death and taxes – no escape! For most travellers, Kiwi dollars earned in NZ will be subject to income tax, deducted from payments by employers – a process called Pay As You Earn (PAYE). Standard NZ income tax rates are 12.2% for annual salaries up to $14,000, then 19.2% up to $48,000, 31.7% up to $70,000, then 34.7% for higher incomes. A NZ Accident Compensation Corporation (ACC) scheme levy (around 2%) will also be deducted from your pay packet. Note that these rates tend to change slightly year-to-year.

If you visit NZ and work for a short time (eg on a working-­holiday scheme), you may qualify for a tax refund when you leave. Complete a Refund Application − People Leaving New Zealand IR50 form and submit it with your tax return, along with proof of departure (eg air-ticket copies) to the Inland Revenue Department (www.ird.govt.nz) . For more info, see the IRD website, or contact the Inland Revenue Non-­Resident Centre ( 03-951 2020; nonres@ird.govt.nz; Private Bag 1932, Dunedin 9054) .

IRD Number

Travellers undertaking paid work in NZ must obtain an IRD (Inland Revenue Department) number. Download the IRD Number Application − Individual IR595 form from the Inland Revenue Department (www.ird.govt.nz) website. IRD numbers normally take eight to 10 working days to be issued.