OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Macetown
Fourteen kilometres north of Arrowtown lies Macetown, a gold-rush ghost town reached via a rugged, flood-prone road (the original miners’ wagon track), which crosses the Arrow River more than 25 times. Don’t even think about taking the rental car here – instead trips are made from Queenstown and Arrowtown by 4WD vehicle, with gold panning included. Operators include Nomad Safaris (Click here) and Southern Explorer (Click here), or you can join a mountain-bike trip there with Arrowtown Bike Hire (Click here).
You can also hike there from Arrowtown (16km, 7½ hours return), but it’s particularly tricky in winter and spring; check with the information centre about conditions before heading out.
Queenstown Bike Tours MOUNTAIN BIKING
OFFLINE MAP(
03-442 0339; www.queenstownbiketours.co.nz; Dudley’s
Cottage, 4 Buckingham St) Rents bikes (adult/child $59/29)
and gets you started on various self-guided adventures, including
wine tours. On the ‘Gold Rush Run’ ($85) you’re given a
gold-panning lesson and equipment, and sent out along the Arrow
River to claim your own lucky stake.
(www.facebook.com/dudleyscottage; 4
Buckingham St; 
9am-5pm) Call into this historic cottage
for a gold-panning lesson ($10) or to have a go panning a trough
filled with water and a bucket of gravel from the river ($15).
Otherwise, rent a pan and shovel ($6) or sluice box ($25) and head
out on your own.
Tours
Arrowtown Legends Tour BUS TOUR
OFFLINE MAP(
0800 405 066; www.connectabus.com; Ramshaw Lane; tours
$20; tours 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm)
Arrowtown is tiny but this double-decker bus (an ex-London
Routemaster) manages a 30-minute loop, complete with an interesting
commentary.
Southern Explorer DRIVING TOUR
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-441 1144; www.southernexplorer.co.nz; 59
Buckingham St; day tours $65-160) Runs 4WD day tours
exploring the improbably scenic landscapes and old mining history
around Arrowtown, Skippers Canyon and Glenorchy. Options include
overnight camping in Skippers Canyon or Macetown.
Sleeping
(
03-442 1466; www.poplarlodge.co.nz; 4 Merioneth St;
dm/s/apt $30/62/120, d with/without bathroom $99/70;
) Budget
accommodation options are limited in A-town, but this converted
house is an excellent choice. The hostel has a quiet, homely feel,
with rooms that are pleasantly sleep conducive. There’s also a
self-contained unit in the neighbouring cottage.
Arrowtown Born Of Gold HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-442 1876; www.arrowtownholidaypark.co.nz; 12
Centennial Ave; campsites $36, units $120-160; 
) Close to the
centre, this unexceptional holiday park offers a lane of en suite
cabins trimmed with roses and a newish amenities block with
coin-operated showers.
(
03-442 1101; www.arrowtownlodge.co.nz; 7 Anglesea St;
d $160; ) From the outside, the guest rooms look
like heritage cottages, but inside they’re cosy and modern, with
en-suite bathrooms. Each has a private entrance from the pretty
gardens. A continental breakfast is provided.
(
03-442 1682; www.arrowtownoldvilla.co.nz; 13 Anglesea
St; s $110, d $140-160; ) Freshly baked bread and homemade
preserves welcome visitors to this heritage-style villa with a
garden just made for summer barbecues. The two en suite double
rooms come trimmed with fresh flowers. One of the rooms has an
additional single bed.
(
03-442 1613; www.shadesofarrowtown.co.nz; cnr
Buckingham & Merioneth Sts; d $110-155;
) Tall shady trees and a garden
setting give these stylish bungalow-style cottages a relaxed air.
The two-storey family unit (from $180) is good value if you’re
travelling with the whole clan.
(
03-442 1765; www.vikinglodge.co.nz; 21 Inverness
Cres; units $145-193; 
) These older A-frame units have a
family-friendly stamp. If the kids still have energy after a day’s
travelling, wear them out even more in the swimming pool or on the
playground.
(
03-409 8600; www.thearrow.co.nz; 63 Manse Rd; d from
$395; ) Five understated but luxurious suites
feature at this modern property on the outskirts of Arrowtown.
Accommodation is chic and contemporary with huge picture windows
showcasing the surrounding countryside. Breakfast is included.
Arrowfield Apartments APARTMENTS $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-442 0012; www.arrowfield.co.nz; 115 Essex Ave,
Butel Park; apt $250-475; ) Lining a quiet crescent in a new
development on the edge of town, these 13 spacious townhouses all
have internal garages, full kitchens, gas fires and three bedrooms.
Doors can be locked off for a smaller, cheaper rental.
(
03-441 7000; www.millbrook.co.nz; Malaghans Rd; d
from $245;
) 
Just outside Arrowtown, this
enormous resort is a town unto itself. Cosy private villas have
every luxury and there’s a top-class golf course right at your
front door. At the end of the day, take your pick from four
restaurants, or relax at the spa (Click
here).
Eating
Arrowtown Bakery BAKERY, CAFE $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(Buckingham St;
mains $6-15; 8am-4pm) Equal parts bakery and cafe, this
little eatery serves a wide selection of gourmet savoury pies
($5.50), including exotic flavours such as venison and Thai
chicken. Or you can just settle in for coffee and a slice.
(www.provisions.co.nz; 65 Buckingham St;
mains $9-19; 8.30am-5pm) One of Arrowtown’s oldest
cottages is now a cute cafe surrounded by fragrant gardens. Pop in
for breakfast or a coffee and don’t leave town without trying one
of its deservedly famous sticky buns. Staff bake everything on
site, including bread and bagels.
Cook’s Store & Deli DELI, CAFE $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.cooksdeli.co.nz; 21 Ramshaw Lane;
mains $9-12; 8.30am-5pm) Attached to a wine store, this
little deli-cafe is a good place to pick up picnic fixings
including local cheeses, bagels and artisan breads.
(
03-442 0509; www.larumbla.co.nz; 54 Buckingham St;
tapas $9-18; 4pm-midnight Tue-Thu, 2pm-2am Fri & Sat,
4-11pm Sun) Tucked behind the post office, this little gem
does a brilliant job of bringing the bold flavours and late-dining
habits of Spain to sleepy little Arrowtown. Local produce is
showcased in tasty bites such as lamb meatballs and Southland suede
croquettes.
(
03-409 8946; www.bonjour-arrowtown.com; 25 Ramshaw
Lane; breakfast $7-19, lunch $11-19, dinner $25-31;
8.30am-3pm Sun-Wed, to
10pm Thu-Sat) Come for breakfast and tuck into coffee and
croissants, or one of the 18 different crepes and galettes that are
served throughout the day. Come back for dinner to treat yourself
to cheese fondue or classic bistro-style dishes.
QUEENSTOWN & WANAKA ON RAINY DAYS
Book in for a
Japanese-style spa experience at Onsen
Hot Pools (
03-442 5707; www.onsen.co.nz; 160 Arthurs Point Rd,
Arthurs Point; tub for 2 $80; 11am-10pm) in Queenstown, or catch a bus
across to Arrowtown for a movie at the quirky Dorothy Browns
cinema. If you’re holed up in Wanaka, Cinema Paradiso (Click
here) or Ruby’s (Click
here) are equally cool. Other all-weather attractions in Wanaka
include Puzzling World (Click
here), and the excellent Wanaka Transport & Toy Museum
(Click
here) or Warbirds & Wheels (Click
here). If you’re visiting from April to October, go ice skating
at the Queenstown Ice Arena (Click
here).
(
03-442 1818; www.stablesrestaurant.co.nz; 28
Buckingham St; lunch $16-19, dinner $32-38;
11am-3pm & 5-9pm;
) With courtyard tables
adjoining a grassy square, Stables is a good spot for an alfresco
lunch. Later at night, step inside the 1860s stone building for a
more intimate dining experience which leans heavily on the char
grill.
(
03-442 0131; www.saffronrestaurant.co.nz; 18
Buckingham St; lunch $23-29, dinner $37-40;
noon-3pm & 6pm-late)
Saffron serves grown-up food in a formal and sophisticated setting.
The ever-changing trio of curries effortlessly traverses Asia,
while other dishes jet to Europe and back. Fans can purchase
The Taste of Central Otago cookbook, showcasing the
restaurant’s best recipes.
Drinking & Nightlife
(www.saffronrestaurant.co.nz; 18
Buckingham St; 5pm-late) Hidden away behind a
tricky-to-find blue door, this cool little bar has a formidable
wine list and enough rustic ambience to keep you entertained for
the evening. Low ceilings, an open fire and abundant candles create
an intimate quaffing location.
(www.theforkandtap.co.nz; 51 Buckingham
St; 11am-11pm) Craft beers, great food and a
sunny, kid-friendly back garden make this the pick of Arrowtown’s
pubs. Built in 1865 as a bank, it now hosts Irish bands on
Wednesdays and other acts on Sundays in summer.
(www.neworleanshotel.co.nz; 27 Buckingham
St; 8am-11pm; ) Dating from 1866, this gold-rush pub
still has the right amount of rough edge to provide a juxtaposition
to Arrowtown’s relentless quaintness. The gnarled prospectors have
long been replaced with (mainly) young local men shooting pool,
watching sport on TV and knocking back a beer on the back deck.
Entertainment
(
03-442 1964; www.dorothybrowns.com; Ballarat Arcade,
Buckingham St; adult/child $19/10) This is what a cinema
should be like: comfortable seating with the option to cuddle with
your neighbour. Fine wine and cheeseboards are available to
accompany the mostly art-house films. Every screening in the main
theatre has an intermission – the perfect opportunity to tuck into
a tub of gourmet ice cream.
Information
Arrowtown Visitor
Information Centre (
03-442 1824; www.arrowtown.com; 49 Buckingham
St; 8.30am-5pm) Shares premises with the Lake
District Museum & Gallery.
Getting There & Away
Connectabus (
03-441 4471; www.connectabus.com) runs regular
services (7.45am to 11pm) on its No 10 route from Frankton to
Arrowtown. From Queenstown, you’ll need to catch a No 11 bus to the
corner of Frankton and Kawarau Rds, and change there. The only
direct service is the double-decker bus heading out on the first
Arrowtown Legends Tour (Click
here) of the day, which departs Queenstown at 9.30am ($8).
Wanaka
Pop 6480
Which is better, Queenstown or Wanaka? That’s the perennial question around these parts and one which doesn’t have an easy answer. It’s hard to say which is more beautiful – both have blissful lake and mountain settings. Ditto, the jury’s out as to which offers better skiing and tramping opportunities.
The main difference is in size, scale and buzz. Unlike its amped-up sibling across the Crown Range, Wanaka retains a laid-back, small-town feel. It’s definitely not a sleepy hamlet anymore though, and new restaurants and bars are adding a veneer of sophistication. And while it doesn’t have quite the same range of adrenaline-inducing activities on offer, Wanaka is no slacker on the outdoor-adventure front. Importantly, it’s also cheaper.
Wanaka
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking &
Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sights
(www.puzzlingworld.com; 188 Wanaka
Luggate Hwy/SH84; adult/child $18/12;
8.30am-5.30pm) A 3D Great Maze
and lots of fascinating brain-bending visual illusions to keep
people of all ages bemused, bothered and bewildered. It’s en route
to Cromwell, 2km from town.
National Transport & Toy Museum MUSEUM
(www.wanakatransportandtoymuseum.com; 851
Wanaka Luggate Hwy/SH6; adult/child $15/5;
8.30am-5pm) Small armies of
Smurfs, Star Wars figurines and Barbie dolls share billing with
dozens of classic cars and a mysteriously acquired MiG jet fighter
in this vast collection, which fills four giant hangers near the
airport. There are around 30,000 items in total, including plenty
of toys you’re bound to remember from rainy childhood
afternoons.
(www.wanakabeerworks.co.nz; SH6; tours
& tasting $10; tastings 11am-4pm, tours 2pm Thu-Tue)
Somewhat incongruously attached to the toy museum, this small
brewery’s two main beers (Cardrona Gold lager and Brewski pilsner)
are complemented by seasonal brews. Dave the owner is a real-deal
Belgian brewing supremo.
(www.warbirdsandwheels.com; Wanaka
Airport, 11 Lloyd Dunn Av; adult/child $20/5;
9am-5pm) Dedicated to NZ combat
pilots, the aircraft they flew and the sacrifices they made, this
museum features Hawker Hurricanes, a de Havilland Vampire and lots
of shiny, beautifully restored classic cars. Grab a bite to eat and
fire up the jukebox in the retro diner.
(www.rippon.co.nz; 246 Mt Aspiring
Rd; noon-4.30pm Jul-Apr) Along with just about
the best view of any NZ winery, Rippon has great wine too. To save
fights as to who’s going to be the designated driver, take a 2km
stroll along the lakeside and look out for the track up the hill
from the end of Sargood Dr.
DON'T MISS
Mt Aspiring National Park
Verdant valleys, alpine meadows, unspoiled rivers, more than 100 glaciers and sheer mountains make Mt Aspiring National Park (www.doc.govt.nz) an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. Protected as a national park in 1964, and later included in the Southwest New Zealand (Te Wahipounamu) World Heritage Area, the park now blankets 3555 sq km along the Southern Alps, from the Haast River in the north to its border with Fiordland National Park in the south. Lording it over all is colossal Mt Aspiring (Tititea; 3033m), the highest peak outside the Aoraki/Mt Cook area.
While the southern end of Mt Aspiring National Park near Glenorchy includes better known tramps such as the Routeburn (Click here), Greenstone and Caples (Click here) and Rees-Dart (Click here) Tracks, there are plenty of blissful short walks and more demanding multiday tramps in the Matukituki Valley, close to Wanaka; see the Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure Matukituki Valley Tracks ($2).
The dramatic Rob Roy Glacier Track (two to four hours return) takes in glaciers, waterfalls and a swing bridge. It’s a moderate walk, but some parts are quite steep. The West Matukituki Valley Track goes on to Aspiring Hut (four to five hours return; peak/off-peak $25/20 per night), a scenic walk over mostly grassy flats. For overnight or multiday tramps offering great views of Mt Aspiring, continue up the valley to Liverpool Hut (at an elevation of 1000m; $15 per night) and French Ridge Hut (at 1465m; $20 per night).
Many of these tramps are prone to snow and avalanches and can be treacherous. It is extremely important to consult DOC in Wanaka (Click here) and to purchase hut tickets before heading off. You should also register your intentions on www.adventuresmart.org.nz.
Tracks are reached from Raspberry Creek at the end of Mt Aspiring Rd, 50km from Wanaka. The road is unsealed for 30km and involves nine ford crossings; it’s usually fine in a 2WD, except in very wet conditions (check at DOC).
Activities
Wanaka is the gateway to Mt Aspiring National Park and to the Treble Cone (Click here), Cardrona (Click here), Harris Mountains and Pisa Range Ski Areas.
Tramping
For walks close to town, including various lakeside walks, pick up the DOC brochure Wanaka Outdoor Pursuits ($3.50). The short climb to the top of Mt Iron (527m, 1½ hours return) reveals panoramic views.
To the north of Wanaka, the usually unpeopled Minaret Burn Track (six to seven hours) in the Mt Alta Conservation Area is suitable for walking and mountain biking. After about two to three hours, a track heads down to Colquhouns Beach, a great swimming spot.
Aspiring Guides MOUNTAINEERING, SKIING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-443 9422; www.aspiringguides.com; L1, 99 Ardmore
St) With over 20 years of alpine experience, this crew
offers a multitude of options, including guided wilderness hiking
(from three to eight days); mountaineering and ice-climbing
courses; guided ascents of Mt Aspiring, Aoraki/Mt Cook and Mt
Tasman; and off-piste skiing (one- to five-day backcountry
expeditions).
Alpinism
& Ski Wanaka MOUNTAINEERING,
SKIING
(
03-442 6593; www.alpinismski.co.nz; from $135)
Guided day walks and overnight tramps, and more full-on mountain
assaults, courses and ski touring.
Adventure Consultants MOUNTAINEERING
(
03-443 8711; www.adventureconsultants.com; 5 days
from $4100) Offers two-days excursions on Brewster Glacier
($890) and three-day trips in Gillespies Pass ($1250) in Mt
Aspiring National Park, as well as longer treks, ascents (Mts
Aspiring, Tutoko, Tasman and Aoraki/Mt Cook) and mountaineering
courses.
Rock Climbing
Excellent rock climbing can be found at Hospital Flat – 25km from Wanaka towards Mt Aspiring National Park.
(
03-443 1110; www.basecampwanaka.co.nz; 50 Cardrona
Valley Rd; adult/child $20/17; noon-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Before you hit the mountains, learn the ropes on climbing
walls.
Wanaka Rock Climbing ROCK CLIMBING
(
03-443 6411; www.wanakarock.co.nz)
Introductory rock-climbing course (half-/full day $140/210), a
half-day abseiling intro ($140), and bouldering and multipitch
climbs for the experienced.
Mountain Biking
Hundreds of kilometres of tracks and trails in the region are open to mountain bikers. Pick up the DOC brochure Wanaka Outdoor Pursuits ($3.50), describing mountain-bike rides ranging from 2km to 24km, including the Deans Bank Loop Track (12km).
One particularly scenic new route is the Newcastle Track (12km), which follows the raging blue waters of the Clutha River from the Albert Town Bridge to Red Bridge. You can make it a 30km loop by joining the Upper Clutha River Track at Luggate.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-443 2558; www.thunderbikes.co.nz; 16 Helwick
St; 9am-5pm) Hires bikes (half/-full day from
$20/35) and carries out repairs. It is located inside the Board
House, which also rents ski and snowboard gear in season, and sells
outdoorsy clothes.
(www.outsidesports.co.nz; Spencer House
Mall, 23 Dunmore St; 9am-6pm) Rents (half-/full day from
$35/55), repairs and sells bikes, along with snow-sports equipment
and clothing.
Other Activities
(
03-443 7922; www.deepcanyon.co.nz; canyoning from
$220; Oct-Apr) Loads of climbing, walking and
waterfall-abseiling through confined, wild gorges.
Skydive Lake Wanaka SKY DIVING
(
03-443 7207; www.skydivewanaka.com; sky diving from
$329) Jump from 12,000ft or go the whole hog with a 15,000ft
leap and 60 seconds of freefall.
Wanaka River Journeys JETBOATING, WALKING
(
03-443 4416; www.wanakariverjourneys.co.nz;
adult/child $229/119) Combination bush walk (50
minutes) and jetboat ride in the gorgeous Matukituki Valley.
(
0800 926 925; www.wanakakayaks.co.nz; from per hour
$12; 9am-6pm Dec-Mar) Rents kayaks ($14 per
hour), stand-up paddle boards ($18 per hour), and catamarans ($60
per hour), and offers guided paddle-powered tours of the lake
(half/full day $75/149). It’s on the lakefront, opposite 163
Ardmore St.
Wanaka Paragliding PARAGLIDING
(
0800 359 754; www.wanakaparagliding.co.nz; tandem
$199) Count on around 20 minutes soaring on the summer
thermals around Treble Cone.
(
03-443 8446; www.hatchfishing.co.nz; 2 adults
half-/full day $490/750) Lakes Wanaka and Hawea and the
surrounding rivers have excellent trout fishing. Hatch offers
guided fly-fishing, with the option of accessing remote spots by
helicopter or jetboat.
(
03-443 1246; www.ecoraft.co.nz; half-day adult/child
$145/85, full day $195/105) Raft on the high-volume Clutha,
with Grade II to III rapids, gold panning and bird-watching.
(
03-443 7888; www.wanakagolf.co.nz; Ballantyne Rd;
green fees $60) A spectacular 18-hole course.
Tours
Scenic Flights
(
03-445 4005; www.u-flywanaka.co.nz; flights from
$199) Scratch ‘flying a plane’ off the bucket list on a
scenic flight over Mt Aspiring National Park. Don’t fret, there are
dual controls ready to take over at a moment’s notice –
they’re not completely insane.
Classic Flights SCENIC FLIGHTS
(
03-443 4043; www.classicflights.co.nz; flights from
$249) Runs
sightseeing flights in a vintage Tiger Moth or Waco biplane.
‘Biggles’ goggles and flowing silk scarf provided.
(
03-443 1085; www.wanakahelicopters.co.nz)
Options range from 15-minute tasters ($95) to two-hour-plus trips
to Milford Sound ($995).
Aspiring Helicopters HELICOPTER
(
03-443 7152; www.aspiringhelicopters.co.nz)
Take a 20-minute flight ($170) or a 2½-hour trip to Milford Sound
($1250); in-between options include Mt Aspiring.
(
03-443 4000; www.alpineheli.co.nz) Options
range from a 20-minute flight ($185) to the four-hour Fiordland
Heli Traverse ($7500 for up to six).
Wanaka Flightseeing SCENIC FLIGHTS
(
03-443 8787; www.flightseeing.co.nz)
Spectacular flyovers of Mt Aspiring ($240), Aoraki/Mt Cook ($435)
and Milford Sound ($490).
Other Tours
Adventure Wanaka CRUISE, FISHING
(
03-443 6665; www.adventurewanaka.com) Offers
lake cruises and fishing trips in an 8m launch.
Lakeland Adventures CRUISE, KAYAKING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-443 7495; www.lakelandadventures.co.nz; Log Cabin,
100 Ardmore St) Has two-hour trips to Stevensons Island
(adult/child $95/55) and a three-hour trip to Mou Waho island
(adult/child $165/55); both include guided nature walks and morning
or afternoon tea. Otherwise you can hire a kayak ($15 per hour) and
paddle your way to Ruby Island.
Also offers one-hour jetboat trips across the lake (adult/child $109/55) and water taxis to the start of the Minaret Burn track ($75).
Eco Wanaka Adventures HIKING, CRUISE
(
03-443 2869; www.ecowanaka.co.nz; half-/full day from
$105/170) Guided
tours include a full-day trek to the Rob Roy glacier ($250), a
four-hour cruise and walk on Mou Waho island, and a full-day
cruise-4WD combo ($390).
Wanaka Bike Tours MOUNTAIN BIKING
(
0800 862 453; www.wanakabiketours.co.nz; tours from
$99) Guided trips including helibiking options.
Ridgeline Adventures DRIVING TOUR
(
0800 234 000; www.ridgelinenz.com; tours from
$140) Explore the wilderness surrounding Wanaka on a 4WD
nature safari.
Funny French Cars DRIVING TOUR
(
027 386 6932; www.funnyfrenchcars.co.nz) Ride
in a classic Citroen around Central Otago wineries (per person
$165), up into the hills for a picnic lunch (per person $150), or
tour the highlights of Wanaka (per car per hour $80).
Festivals & Events
(
03-443 8619, 0800 496 920;
www.warbirdsoverwanaka.com; Wanaka
Airport; 3-day adult/child $190/45) Held every second Easter
(even-numbered years), this incredibly popular international
airshow attracts upwards of 50,000 people. Tickets for the first
day only cost $65/15 per adult/child, the second and third days are
$90/15 each.
(www.ripponfestival.co.nz) Held every second year in early February (even-numbered years) at the lakeside Rippon Vineyard. Big-name Kiwi acts headline with a variety of styles represented, including R&B, reggae, rock, pop and punk.
(www.wanakafest.co.nz) This four-day event in mid-October has the feel of a small-town fair. Street parades, live music, wacky competitions and fine regional produce get the locals saying g’day to the warmth of spring.
Sleeping
In summer, and especially around New Year, prices and demand increase considerably. During winter, the town receives an influx of international snowboarders.
Wanaka
(
03-443 8864; www.altamontlodge.co.nz; 121 Mt Aspiring
Rd; s/d without bathrooms $49/79; ) At the quiet end of town, Altamont has
tidy little rooms which share bathrooms and a spacious,
well-equipped kitchen. Natural wood gives it a ski-lodge ambience,
while the spa pool and roaring fire in the lounge will warm you up
postslopes.
(
03-443 7837; www.wanakabakpaka.co.nz; 117 Lakeside
Rd; dm $28-29, d with/without bathroom $90/70; ) An energetic
husband-and-wife team run this friendly hostel above the lake with
just about the best views in town. Amenities are top shelf and the
onto-it staff consistently offer a red-carpet welcome to weary
travellers. It’s worth considering paying a bit extra for the en
suite double with the gorgeous views.
YHA Wanaka Purple Cow HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-443 1880; www.yha.co.nz; 94 Brownston St; dm
$31-34, d with/without bathroom from $95/81; ) In the top echelons of NZ
YHAs, the Purple Cow offers a range of shared and private rooms,
including some with en suites in a newer building out the back.
Best of all is the large lounge, with commanding lake and mountain
views, and a wood stove.
Aspiring
Campervan
& Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
03-443 7766; www.campervanpark.co.nz; Studholme Rd;
campsites $20-25, s/d $25/60, units with/without bathroom from
$75/65; ) Grassy sites for tents and campervans,
lots of trees, and pretty views add up to a relaxing spot.
Facilities include a barbecue area with gas heaters, and free
wi-fi, spa pool and sauna. Older-style motel units have all been
renovated, and the newest budget cabins are warm and cosy with
wooden floors.
(
03-443 1119; www.matterhornsouth.co.nz; 56 Brownston
St; dm $28-35, d with/without bathroom from $115/80;
) Split between two buildings – the ‘lodge’
and the slightly rougher-around-the-edges ‘backpackers’ – this
friendly spot has clean, good-value dorms and private rooms. Each
has its own kitchen and lounge, and the garden is a great place to
relax after a day’s adventuring.
Mountain View Backpackers HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-443 9010; www.wanakabackpackers.co.nz; 7 Russell
St; dm $27-29, d $68; 
) This colourfully renovated
and characterful house features a manicured lawn and warm,
comfortable rooms. Fire up the barbecue after a busy day’s
exploring. Handy features include a drying room and off-street
parking.
(
03-443 5511; www.criffelpeakview.co.nz; 98 Hedditch
St; s $130, d $160-165, apt $270) Situated in a quiet
cul-de-sac, this excellent B&B has three rooms sharing a large
lounge with a log fire and a sunny wisteria-draped deck. The
charming hostesses live in a separate house behind, which has a
self-contained two-bedroom apartment attached.
(
03-443 8894; www.harpers.co.nz; 95 McDougall St; tw/d
$140/160) The garden (with pond and waterfall no less…) is a
labour of love for the retiree owners at this quiet, homely
B&B. Legendary breakfasts are served on a sunny deck with
expansive views. You’d be wise to factor a leisurely second cup of
breakfast coffee into your day’s plans.
(
03-443 7480; www.wanakaviewmotel.co.nz; 122 Brownston
St; units $120-195; ) The refurbished Wanaka View has five
apartments with Sky TV, spa baths, full kitchens and lake views;
the largest has three bedrooms. There’s also a comfortable studio
unit tucked around the back, which is cheaper but doesn’t have a
kitchen or view.
(
03-443 7698; www.archwaymotels.co.nz; 64 Hedditch St;
units from $120; ) This older motel with clean and spacious
units and chalets is a short uphill walk from the town centre.
Friendly and helpful owners, new flat-screen TVs, and cedar hot
tubs with mountain views make Archway great value in a
sometimes-expensive town. Check online for good off-peak
discounts.
(
03-443 8333; www.brookvale.co.nz; 35 Brownston St; d
$150-180; ) At this older-style motel with studio and
family units, the patios open onto a grassy lawn edged by a gently
flowing creek. There’s also a barbecue, hot tub and swimming
pool.
(
03-443 0188; www.lakesidewanaka.co.nz; 7 Lakeside Rd;
apt $295-795; ) Luxuriate in a modern
apartment in a prime position overlooking the lake, right by the
town centre. All have three bedrooms but can be rented with only
one or two bedrooms open. The swimming pool is a rariety in these
parts and an appealing alternative to the frigid lake on a
sweltering day.
(
03-443 5022; www.wanakahomestead.co.nz; 1 Homestead
Close; d $269, cottages $399-499;
) Wooden interiors, oriental
rugs and local artwork punctuate this boutique lodge, which has won
awards for its ecofriendly approach. Despite the focus on green
good deeds, it’s still luxurious, with underfloor heating and an
under-the-stars hot tub. Choose from rooms in the main lodge or in
self-contained cottages.
Albert Town
(
03-443 8567; www.riversongwanaka.co.nz; 5 Wicklow
Tce; d $160-190; ) Across from the Clutha River in nearby
Albert Town, Riversong has two guest bedrooms in a lovely
weatherboard house. The well-travelled owner has a fabulous
nonfiction library. If you can tear yourself away from the books,
there’s excellent trout fishing just metres away.
Wanaka Alpine Lodge B&B, APARTMENTS $$$
(
03-443 5355; www.wanakaalpinelodge.co.nz; 114 Albert
Town-Lake Hawea Rd; r $259-289, apt $390;
) Guests in the four spacious,
modern bedrooms are pampered with home baking, an evening glass of
wine and a cedar hot tub. It’s slightly out of town, but the young
owners will lend you a mountain bike to get around on and even
chauffeur you in for dinner.
Eating
Boaboa Food Company FAST FOOD $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.facebook.com/boaboafc; 137 Ardmore
St; mains $10-18; 10am-9pm) Fancy burgers (spiced pulled
pork, high-country salmon, porterhouse steak) are the mainstay of
this white-tiled takeway bar, but it also does fish and chips and
fried chicken. There are only a handful of high tables, but the
lakefront beckons.
(cnr Helwick
& Ardmore Sts; brunch $7-18, dinner $17-22;
7am-11pm) An absolute Wanaka
institution, Kai (the Maori word for food) is the place to be for a
liquid sundowner accompanied by a massive sandwich or pizza.
Locally brewed Wanaka Beerworks beers are on tap and there are
Central Otago wines as well.
(26 Ardmore St;
burgers $10-17; 11.30am-11pm; 
) Red Star spoils diners with a menu
featuring inventive ingredients and 22 different burgers. Everybody
is catered for – even vegetarians, who get a show-stopping three
choices.
(www.soulfoodwanaka.co.nz; 74 Ardmore St;
mains $10-15; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun;
) It’s not soul food in the
African American sense; rather this little organics store offers a
healthy range of id-affirming soups, pizza, pasta and muffins. Not
everything’s strictly vegetarian, with wild venison and free-range
bacon breaking the spell. Juices and smoothies are suitably
virtuous, but coffee’s limited to the plunger variety.
(Spencer House
Mall, 23 Dunmore St; mains $12-15; 8am-5.30pm; ) Tucked away in a shopping arcade, this
funky Japanese-inspired eatery does interesting local spins on
sushi (how about venison?), and superlative juices and smoothies.
There’s also a good range of vego options and free wi-fi with any
$4 purchase.
Francesca’s Italian Kitchen
ITALIAN $$
(
03-443 5599; www.fransitalian.co.nz; 93 Ardmore St;
mains $20-25; noon-3pm & 5.30pm-late) Ebullient expat
Francesca has brought the big flavours and easy conviviality of an
authentic Italian family trattoria to Wanaka in the form of this
stylish and perennially busy eatery. Even simple things like pizza,
pasta and polenta chips are exceptional. She also runs a pizza cart
from the New World car park.
Florence’s Foodstore & Cafe CAFE $$
(www.florencesfoodstore.co.nz; 71
Cardrona Valley Rd; mains $16; 8.30am-4pm) Wood, corrugated iron and
jute-cladding create a rustic feel for this edge-of-town gourmet
providore. Call in for the region’s prettiest salmon Benedict, as
well as French-style pastries and delicious ham-and-cheese
baguettes.
(
03-443 7538; www.relishescafe.co.nz; 99 Ardmore St;
brunch $11-20, dinner $31-35; 7am-10pm) A cafe by day with good breakfast
and lunch options, this place transforms itself at night into a
sophisticated restaurant with a good wine list. Try the free-range
pork belly or Aoraki salmon, and toast the lakefront setting with a
glass of Central Otago’s finest.
(
03-443 1133; www.spiceroom.co.nz; 43 Helwick St;
mains $21-25; 5.30-10pm; ) The combination of an authentic curry,
crispy garlic naan and cold beer is a great way to recharge after a
day’s snowboarding or tramping. Beyond the spot-on renditions of
all your subcontinental favourites, the Spice Room springs a few
surprises, with starters including a zingy scallops masala
salad.
(18 Helwick St;
mains $10-20; 9am-5pm) A classic 21st-century Kiwi cafe,
Ritual is smart but not too trendy, gay-friendly but
family-friendly too, and filled to the gills with delicious food.
The counter positively groans under the weight of tasty salads,
slices and scones.
(www.federaldiner.co.nz; 47 Helwick St;
mains $9-21; 7am-4pm; ) Tucked away in a back lane, this
cosmopolitan cafe delivers robust breakfasts, excellent coffee and
chunky gourmet sandwiches. Try the ‘Roaster Coaster’ with
slow-roasted pork shoulder and apple sauce on ciabatta. Service is
sometimes chaotic.
(
03-443 2299; www.bistrogentil.co.nz; 76a Golf Course
Rd; mains $30-42; 11.30am-2pm Sat & Sun, 5-9pm Wed-Sun, extended
Dec-Feb) Lake views, fabulous NZ art, oodles of wines by the
glass and delicious modern French cuisine – Gentil ticks plenty of
boxes for a memorable night out. On a balmy night, request an
outside table.
(
03-443 5099; www.thelandinglakewanaka.co.nz; L1, 80
Ardmore St; mains $29-39; 5-10pm) Local beef, lamb and salmon is
served in innovative ways in this upmarket upstairs restaurant at
the apex of the main streets. The beautifully presented dishes do
well to compete with the spectacular lake views.
Drinking & Nightlife
(Post Office
Lane, 33 Ardmore St; 4pm-2.30am) The tucked-away Post Office
Lane complex is Wanaka’s coolest drinking destination – despite the
lack of lake views. Sharing both a courtyard and owners, these
neighbouring bars operate more or less in tandem, especially when
there’s a DJ event on. Barluga’s leather armchairs and retro
wallpaper bring to mind a refined gentlemen’s club. Wicked
cocktails and killer back-to-back beats soon smash that illusion.
Woody’s plays the role of the younger brother, with pool tables and
indie sounds.
(www.lalalandwanaka.co.nz; L1, 99 Ardmore
St; 3pm-2am) Keep a watchful eye on the lake or
sink into a comfy chair at this little, low-lit, completely
over-the-top cocktail palace/bordello. The young barmeister-owner
truly knows his stuff, concocting elixirs to suit every mood. Entry
is via the rear stairs.
(www.ginandraspberry.co.nz; L1, 155
Ardmore St; 4pm-late) If you’re in the swing for bling,
this lush bar offers gilded mirrors, sparkling chandeliers, a piano
and a central fireplace. Classic movies provide a backdrop to
classic cocktails (including seven different martinis), and the
occasional live band fires things up.
(L1, 68 Ardmore
St; 9pm-late Wed-Sun) An Asian-themed club with
DJs and occasional live music. It’s popular in winter with the
snowboarder crowd, but in summer the lakefront bars are busier.
Entertainment
(
03-443 1505; www.paradiso.net.nz; 72 Brownston St;
adult/child $15/9) Stretch out on a comfy couch or in an old
Morris Minor at this Wanaka institution, screening the best of
Hollywood and art-house flicks. At intermission the smell of
freshly baked cookies wafts through the theatre, although the
homemade ice cream is just as alluring.
(
03-443 6901; www.rubyscinema.co.nz; 50 Cardrona
Valley Rd; adult/child $19/13) Channelling a lush New York
or Shanghai vibe, this hip-art-house-cinema-meets-chic-cocktail-bar
is a real surprise in outdoorsy Wanaka. Luxuriate in the huge
cinema seats, or chill out in the red-velvet lounge with craft
beers, classic cocktails and sophisticated bar snacks. You’ll find
Ruby’s concealed within the Basecamp Wanaka building on the
outskirts of town.
Shopping
(www.thepicturelounge.co.nz; Spencer House Mall, 23 Dunmore St) Showcases large-format art shots, mainly of local landscapes.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.chop.co.nz; Pembroke Mall) The best coffee in town and a natty range of locally designed beanies and cool T-shirts for the discerning snowboarder.
Gallery Thirty Three ARTS & CRAFTS
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.gallery33.co.nz; 33 Helwick
St; 10am-5pm) Pottery, glass and jewellery from
local artists.
(www.mtoutdoors.co.nz; 17 Dunmore
St; 9am-6pm) Rents and sells rock-climbing,
mountaineering, camping and tramping gear.
Information
Lake Wanaka
i-SITE (
03-443 1233; www.lakewanaka.co.nz; 103 Ardmore
St; 8.30am-5.30pm) Extremely helpful but always
busy.
Mt Aspiring National
Park Visitor Centre (DOC; 03-443 7660; www.doc.govt.nz; Ardmore St;
8.30am-5pm daily Nov-Apr,
Mon-Sat May-Oct) In an A-framed building on the edge of the
town centre, this Department of Conservation centre takes hut
bookings and offers advice on tracks and conditions. There’s a
small display on Wanaka geology, flora and fauna.
Wanaka Medical
Centre (
03-443 7811; www.wanakamedical.co.nz; 23 Cardrona
Valley Rd; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 4-6pm Sat &
Sun) Patches up adventure-sports mishaps.
Getting There & Away
Alpine
Connexions (
03-443 9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) Links
Wanaka with Queenstown, Cromwell, Alexandra, Dunedin and the Rail
Trail towns of Central Otago. It also has shuttles to Wanaka
Airport, the Mt Aspiring trailheads and Lake Hawea in summer, and
Cardrona and Treble Cone in winter.
Atomic Shuttles
( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Daily bus
to/from Dunedin ($35, 4½ hours) via Cromwell ($15, 50 minutes),
Alexandra ($20, 1¾ hours) and Roxburgh ($30, 2¼ hours).
Connectabus
( 0800 405 066; www.connectabus.com; 1-way/return
$35/65) Handy twice-daily service linking Wanaka with
Queenstown airport (1¼ hours) and Queenstown (1½ hours). Free
pick-up from most accommodation.
InterCity
( 03-442 4922; www.intercity.co.nz) Coaches
depart from outside the Log Cabin on the lakefront, with daily
services to Cromwell (from $10, 44 minutes), Queenstown (from $17,
1½ hours), Lake Hawea (from $10, 24 minutes), Makarora (from $12,
1¾ hours) and Franz Josef (from $43, 6½ hours).
Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) Services to Queenstown, Cromwell, Franz Josef, Lake Tekapo and Christchurch. Prices vary.
Getting Around
Adventure
Rentals (
03-443 6050; www.adventurerentals.co.nz; 20 Ardmore
St) Hires cars and 4WDs.
Yello
( 03-443 5555; www.yello.co.nz) Taxis and
shuttles.
Around Wanaka
Cardrona
The cute hamlet of Cardrona reached its zenith in the 1870s at the height of the gold rush, when its population numbered over a thousand. Now it’s a sleepy little place which wakes up with a jolt for the ski season.
With views of foothills and countless snowy peaks, the Crown Range Road from Cardrona to Queenstown is one of the South Island’s most scenic drives. At 1076m, it’s the highest sealed road in NZ. It passes through tall, swaying tussock grass in the Pisa Conservation Area OFFLINE MAP , which has several short walking trails. There are some great places to stop and drink in the view, particularly at the Queenstown end of the road before you start the switchback down towards Arrowtown. However, the road is narrow and winding, and needs to be tackled with care in poor weather. In winter it’s sometimes closed after heavy snows, and you’ll often need snow chains for your wheels.
Activities
(
03-443 7341; www.cardrona.com; off Cardrona Valley
Rd; day pass adult/child $99/51; 9am-4pm Jul-Sep) Well-organised and
professional, this 345-hectare ski field offers runs to suit all
abilities (25% beginners, 50% intermediate, 25% advanced) at
elevations ranging from 1670m to 1860m. In season it operates a
booking office (
03-443 7411; 18 Dunmore
St) in Wanaka where you can buy ski passes and book Yello
shuttles (return adult/child $35/28).
(
03-443 7542; www.snowfarmnz.com; off Cardrona Valley
Rd; day pass adult/child $40/20) In winter this is home to
fantastic cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, sledding and dog-sled
tours, with over 40km of groomed trails. Lessons and ski hire are
available.
Backcountry
Saddle
Expeditions HORSE RIDING
(
03-443 8151; www.backcountrysaddles.co.nz; Crown
Range Rd; adult/child $85/65) Runs horse treks through the
Cardrona Valley on Appaloosa horses.
Sleeping & Eating
(
03-443 8153; www.cardronahotel.co.nz; Crown Range Rd;
d $185; bar 10am-2am) Après-ski, this iconic hotel
really comes into its own. This classic southern pub first opened
its doors in 1863, and today you’ll find a good restaurant (mains
$20 to $32) and a great garden bar. The lovingly restored rooms
have snug, country-style furnishings and patios opening onto the
garden (expect some noise on summer nights).
Getting There & Away
Ski shuttles are offered by Alpine Connexions ( 03-443 9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) ,
Yello ( 03-443 5555; www.yello.co.nz) and Ridgeline
Adventures (Click
here) in Wanaka, and Kiwi Discovery (Click
here) in Queenstown.
Lake Hawea
Pop 2180
The small town of Lake Hawea, 15km north of Wanaka, sits near the dam at the southern end of its 141-sq-km namesake. Separated from Lake Wanaka by a narrow isthmus called the Neck, blue-grey Lake Hawea is 35km long and 410m deep, and home to trout and landlocked salmon. The lake was raised 20m in 1958 to facilitate the power stations downriver.
Sleeping & Eating
Lake Hawea Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
03-443 1767; www.haweaholidaypark.co.nz; SH6;
campsites $16-34, units with/without bathroom $130/60;
) On the lakeshore, this spacious and
peaceful old-fashioned holiday park is a favourite of fishing and
boating enthusiasts. Units range from a block of basic cabins with
brightly painted doors to motel units and cottages.
(
03-443 1224; www.lakehawea.co.nz; 1 Capell Ave; dm/d
$30/180, lunch $11-27, dinner $19-32; ) It’s looking a little shabby from the
outside, but the rooms have been refurbished and have unbeatable
views across the lake. The complex includes a large bar and
restaurant with equally stellar vistas.
Getting There & Away
InterCity
( 03-442 4922; www.intercity.co.nz) Coaches stop
at the dam (SH6) daily, heading to/from Queenstown (from $20, two
hours), Cromwell (from $14, 1¼ hours), Wanaka (from $10, 24
minutes), Makarora (from $10, 1¼ hours) and Franz Josef (from $40,
six hours).
Makarora
Pop 40
Remote Makarora is the last frontier before you cross Haast Pass and enter the wild West Coast – and it certainly feels that way. Aside from the tour buses passing through, it feels wonderfully remote.
Activities
Tramping
Short tramps in this secluded area include the Bridal Track (1½ hours one way, 3.5km), from the top of Haast Pass to Davis Flat, and the Blue Pools Walk (30 minutes return), where you may see huge rainbow and brown trout.
Longer tramps go through magnificent countryside but shouldn’t be undertaken lightly. Changeable alpine and river conditions mean you must be well prepared; consult with DOC before heading off. Its Tramping in the Makarora Region brochure ($2) is a worthwhile investment.
The three-day Gillespie Pass loop tramp goes via the Young, Siberia and Wilkin Valleys. This is a high pass with avalanche danger in winter and spring. With a jetboat ride down the Wilkin to complete it, this rates as one of NZ’s most memorable tramps.
The Wilkin Valley Track heads off from Kerin Forks Hut – at the top of the Wilkin River – and on to Top Forks Hut and the picturesque Lakes Diana, Lucidus and Castalia (one hour, 1½ hours and three to four hours respectively from Top Forks Hut). Jetboats go to Kerin Forks, and a service goes across the Young River mouth when the Makarora floods. Another option is to use the High River Route from the Blue Pools (7km and two hours). Enquire at Wilkin River Jets or DOC.
Other Activities
Siberia Experience ADVENTURE TOUR
(
03-443 4385; www.siberiaexperience.co.nz; adult/child
$310/287) This
thrill-seeking extravaganza combines a 25-minute scenic small-plane
flight, a three-hour bush walk through a remote mountain valley and
a half-hour jetboat trip down the Wilkin and Makarora Rivers in Mt
Aspiring National Park. It’s possible to arrange transfers from
Wanaka.
(
03-443 8351; www.wilkinriverjets.co.nz) A
superb 50km, one-hour jetboating trip (adult/child $110/57) into Mt
Aspiring National Park, following the Makarora and Wilkin Rivers.
It’s cheaper than Queenstown options, and it can be combined with a
helicopter ride.
Southern Alps Air SCENIC FLIGHTS
(
0800 345 666, 03-443 4385;
www.southernalpsair.co.nz) Trip to Aoraki/Mt Cook and
the glaciers (adult/child $435/275), Milford Sound flyovers
($405/255) and Milford fly-cruise combos ($490/305).
Information
DOC Visitor
Centre (
03-443 8365; www.doc.govt.nz; SH6;
8am-5pm daily Dec-Mar, Mon-Fri Nov
& Apr) Call in to check conditions and routes before
undertaking any wilderness tramps. The nearest DOC camping grounds
(adult/child $6/3) are on SH6 at Cameron Flat, 10km north of
Makarora, and at Boundary Creek, 18km south of Makarora on the
shores of Lake Wanaka.
Makarora Tourist
Centre (
03-443 8372; www.makarora.co.nz; 5944 Haast
Pass-Makarora Rd/SH6; 8am-8pm) A large complex incorporating a
cafe, bar, shop, information centre, camping ground, bunk house and
self-contained units.
Getting There & Away
InterCity
( 03-442 4922; www.intercity.co.nz) Daily
coaches to/from Queenstown (from $24, 3½ hours), Cromwell (from
$19, 2½ hours), Wanaka (from $12, 1¾ hours), Lake Hawea (from $10,
1¼ hours) and Franz Josef (from $36, 4¾ hours).